OK to use a marine battery in my 80?

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I have a 3 month old AC Delco Voyager battery I just took out of the boat for winter layup, and the 97's battery is acting up a bit now that winter's here. It's a Group 24, so marginally larger than stock and its got 845 CA and 1035MCA (marine cranking amps which I believe is the test done at a warm temp vs CCA which is done at colder temps). On their website they talk about HD internals to resist vibration and plate shorting, etc.

I cannot see a reason this would not hold up just as well in a car application. What do you guys think?

DougM
 
Speaking as a Marine Tech (Master OMC and Master Yamaha) I don't think you'll have a problem as long as you meet the standards of the Cruiser.
 
I think those specs comfortably exceed the 80's battery spec, but good point - I'll go check the (gasp!) owner's manual. Which I have not read in oh, about 13 years!!

DougM
 
Run it.


IIRC MCA is measured at 32 degrees and CCA is at 0 degrees.
 
I think those specs comfortably exceed the 80's battery spec, but good point - I'll go check the (gasp!) owner's manual. Which I have not read in oh, about 13 years!!

DougM


The stock spec is 710 CCA

About the only thing that may be a bit low would be the reserve capacity.


Run it Doug, thats a good way to keep it charged. Put a new on in the Cruiser when you want to go boating again.
 
I've run a marine starting/deep cycle for a couple years now (optima blue). no problems.
 
I have an yellow top Optima on one of my 80's and it has no problems.
 
I agree....run it....

I run 3 -1200 CCA Scosche Drycell batteries in my rig with no problems. Factory alternator charges them great w/o an isolator....

I have to run 3 battery's for my audio system....FYI...
 
7.1.6. Wet Marine/RV

Wet marine/RV batteries are available in three different versions--starting, "dual purpose", and deep cycle. The wet marine/RV starting battery is basically a wet car (or starting) battery with carrying handles and stud or combination terminals and designed for high current and shallow discharges (up to 5% Depth-of-Discharge). It maybe ruggedized to be more resistant to vibration and shock than an automobile battery. The battery's construction, separator thickness and material, plate thickness and plate composition will all determine a battery's ability to withstand vibration. Securing the battery to reduce the vibration will increase it's service life.

The wet "dual purpose" marine/RV battery is a compromise between a starting and deep cycle battery that is specially designed for high vibration in marine/RV applications. It is generally are more expensive than a starting battery. The marine/RV deep cycle battery is designed for deep discharge applications, such as a running a trolling motor. Marine starting, "dual purpose", or deep cycle batteries can have wet Standard (Sb/Sb), wet Low Maintenance (Sb/Ca), or wet "Maintenance Free" (Ca/Ca) plate formulations. Please beware of marine/RV batteries that are cheap, because they are often car batteries with handles and stud or combination terminals. A marine/RV deep cycle or "dual purpose" battery will work as a starting battery if it can produce enough current to start the engine. Good ventilation is required for all wet (or "flooded") batteries to dissipate the gasses produced during charging. For saltwater applications, use ONLY sealed AGM (Ca/Ca) or Gel Cell (Ca/Ca) VRLA batteries to prevent the formation of DEADLY chlorine gas if battery electrolyte is mixed with saltwater.

http://www.uuhome.de/william.darden/index.htm


the marine battery will work fine, the CCA needs of the 80 are not that great just about any healthy battery will work.
 
It's a deep cycle battery and it had no trouble firing up the ol' 454 all summer, so I guess my only conced ourn will be how it does when it is very cold out. Although, it wouldn't surprise me to find the tighter Toyota TwinCam 4500 is harder to turn over than a loosey-goosey GM big block....

DougM
 
I have started the 4.5 several times with a little jumpstart pack without any trouble at all.
 
Ah, your compression is prolly so low a child could spin it from the crank pulley... I have the ultra rare high compression model.

DougM
 
I measured the amperage of the starter once, sustained current (after inrush) was under 100 amps, it would be more in cold weather but it shows that the 1FZ is not that hungry for cranking amps, the starter has gear reduction and the motor has 2/3 the displacement of your 454, the DOHC is actually easier to turn than the push rod 454.

as long as the battery is healthy (sounds like it may not be?) a dual purpose battery is ideal for an 80, high CCA starting batteries archive this current through many thin high surface area sponge lead plates, dual purpose batteries have fewer thicker plates that do better at deep discharge, pound for pound they have about the same reserve capacity (how long you can run the radio with engine off) so if you do no need the CCA's you are better off with a dual purpose.
 
I replaced my Interstate battery the PO had put in (marked -installed 10-1-99) just last week as a PM coming into winter. Looking at the applications listed by Interstate, I saw that the chart had a heavy duty application (MTP-27- 6J = US 80 standard model vs) MTP-27F-6J ="Canada - HD" rated at 710CCA and 890CA. In stock at the local warehouse, same physical size and direct fit.

ST
 
Ah, your compression is prolly so low a child could spin it from the crank pulley... I have the ultra rare high compression model.

DougM



well, if your high comp is from the head having been shaved during a HG exercise, I'll stick with the low comp, thank you very much....! :)
 
I put in the Costco dual purpose, size 27, see lengthy thread....
 
Will you be able to charge up the Marine battery completely? Don't know if multiple short trips will satisfy a deep cycle battery's charging needs.
 
there is the terrific battery german site mentioned here.
discusses the subtleties of charging all kinds of batteries.
my recollection is that the dual purpose should be more forgiving as far as charging
 
Isn't a group 24 smaller than a group 27 which is the stock size (27f to be exact)?
 

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