Oil in the water...what the...!!
- Thread starter HemiDave
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Odds are it's the headgasket... Oil in the water is not good, but if you start getting water in the oil, it's toast.... Have a cooling system pressure check done, that should tell you if it's leaking.... good luck!
Stop driving it now. Perform a compression check just to be 100% sure. Write down the results. When you send the head off make sure it gets magnafluxed...another wards the works! Also it never hurts to check the block where the head sets to be sure its flat and true.
That should get you started.
That should get you started.
nnnaaaaaa loose heater hose- Thread starter
- #8
I didn't do the compression check yet. I did pull all the plugs and they look good. I drained the coolant and replaced it..needed that anyway.. I will run it for a while and see if the oil returns. There really wasn't much in the drain bucket for the coolant, but it all floated on the top, just a thin film that would coat your finger.
Don't know that I would trust it on a long trip now... No telling how long it took for the film to form. Haven't used the truck very often.
I was planning on changing the timing chain anyway this winter. Any suggested sources?
Thanks!!
Dave
Don't know that I would trust it on a long trip now... No telling how long it took for the film to form. Haven't used the truck very often.
I was planning on changing the timing chain anyway this winter. Any suggested sources?
Thanks!!
Dave
In my cases, it's always been the head gasket...(UNFORTUNATELY
)
I have also heard, at least on newer 22r/re the plastic timing chain guides
break and then the chain slowly grinds through the aluminum cover down to the cooling system. VERRY BADDDD!!!!!
Mine was almost through.... I ordered a new cover and grinded older new timing chain guides (METAL) to fit in the 87 22re when changing the old timing chain.... and presto chango....
Don't know if it helps....
As far as sourcing them... well I got them from a napa auto.. but I kinda wish I would have used OEM!
)I have also heard, at least on newer 22r/re the plastic timing chain guides
break and then the chain slowly grinds through the aluminum cover down to the cooling system. VERRY BADDDD!!!!!Mine was almost through.... I ordered a new cover and grinded older new timing chain guides (METAL) to fit in the 87 22re when changing the old timing chain.... and presto chango....
Don't know if it helps....
As far as sourcing them... well I got them from a napa auto.. but I kinda wish I would have used OEM!
dont be foolish. find the problem and fix it.
steel guides do not make sense.
i dont care how long they last. the chain is a serviceable part which needs to be changed in the same time as it would if it had plastic guides.
i use napa chains and guides. they still carry the kit. they have another new line now, i dont recall the name. but DO NOT buy it. they claim its the OE part in a name brand box or what ever.
i inspected the new chain, my old chain and the other new chain out of the kit i first mentioned. the old one and the supposed OE one saggged about the same. what that means is that supposed OE one excedes toyotas specs.
the one from the kit was far tighter, and i have done a hundred of these timing jobs, and i always use these kits from napa with zero problems
steel guides do not make sense.
i dont care how long they last. the chain is a serviceable part which needs to be changed in the same time as it would if it had plastic guides.
i use napa chains and guides. they still carry the kit. they have another new line now, i dont recall the name. but DO NOT buy it. they claim its the OE part in a name brand box or what ever.
i inspected the new chain, my old chain and the other new chain out of the kit i first mentioned. the old one and the supposed OE one saggged about the same. what that means is that supposed OE one excedes toyotas specs.
the one from the kit was far tighter, and i have done a hundred of these timing jobs, and i always use these kits from napa with zero problems
Why do you feel this way? I have to strongly disagree.
Toyota does not have a recommended interval to change the timing chain, you only check it's wear and change it if it is beyond the maximum. The FSM shows how to check it using a dial caliper.
I have seen many engines that were well maintained (including mine) but the plastic guides were disintegrating and bits and pieces were sitting in the pan. Left unchanged, I'm sure they would have failed by now and I would have the infamous timing chain cover problem. I have the DOA metal guides now, I'll never have to change them again.
Truthfully, I think the problem with the original poster to this thread is a leaking head gasket. Typically only a leak-down test can confirm this.
you are 100% right.
my view is that the chain needs to be replaced at some point. i have done a chain right off the bat on every toy i bought. every one was over stretched. it just seems to me, the chain is a servicable item, and you have to tear into it so far to even inspect it.
the thing that does suck is cleaning out the pan. granted a steel guide will eliminate this.
but its not for me.
- Thread starter
- #14
Updated!!
I drove the truck for a day after changing the water/coolant. NO oil in the water! I am driving it today and will check tonight but it might not be as serious as first thought. Thanks for the replies!!
Dave
I drove the truck for a day after changing the water/coolant. NO oil in the water! I am driving it today and will check tonight but it might not be as serious as first thought. Thanks for the replies!!
Dave
my personal opinion on the steel guides vs factory plastics has been that if the chain is causing tiny bits and pieces of the plastic guides to fly off then that means its definitely rubbing against it... wouldnt it be better for a plastic guide to break on you as a result of that wear rather than have your chain take the beating?
again this is my personaly opinion and i have never owned the steel guides but thought i would mention that for the sake of conversation and consideration.
I had a broken guide that I drove 500 miles on before I could have it replaced earlier this year with the factory plastic guide. How many miles can you drive on a broken chain? 0. I recently found out the previous owner had also replaced the guide at some point during his 10 years of ownership (5 of them hardly driven). As far as before that... he doesnt know if the chain was ever replaced. As a result I plan to do the chain during this summer, even though It was in good shape when the guide was replaced early 08. Im still not entirely sure if ill do plastic or steel guides when changing the chain maybe the responses to this thread will help me decide.
again this is my personaly opinion and i have never owned the steel guides but thought i would mention that for the sake of conversation and consideration.
I had a broken guide that I drove 500 miles on before I could have it replaced earlier this year with the factory plastic guide. How many miles can you drive on a broken chain? 0. I recently found out the previous owner had also replaced the guide at some point during his 10 years of ownership (5 of them hardly driven). As far as before that... he doesnt know if the chain was ever replaced. As a result I plan to do the chain during this summer, even though It was in good shape when the guide was replaced early 08. Im still not entirely sure if ill do plastic or steel guides when changing the chain maybe the responses to this thread will help me decide.
The metal guides have plastic on them, they're just metal-backed so they won't break.
Yes, the metal guides have a dense rubber coating on them on the face where the chain may hit it, so the chain is protected from abrasive wear.
I think you'd be surprised how much the timing chain flops around under that cover while the engine is running, especially during rapid RPM changes. The tensioner can only take up so much slack. During radical slowing of the engine, the "slack" (passenger side) of the chain actually has to slow down the cam, so the "tension" side of the chain can temporarily go slack and it will slap the guide. It's normal operation.
I think you'd be surprised how much the timing chain flops around under that cover while the engine is running, especially during rapid RPM changes. The tensioner can only take up so much slack. During radical slowing of the engine, the "slack" (passenger side) of the chain actually has to slow down the cam, so the "tension" side of the chain can temporarily go slack and it will slap the guide. It's normal operation.
Yeah, and it's usually a catostrophic failure, one minute it's fine, then a few miles later you have a nasty milkshake in your crankcase.