Oil & Filter Change for LC200 (2 Viewers)

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I decided to do it myself after having it serviced at Toyota since purchasing my 08 used. Went to take the skid plate off and all the bolts were rusted in there. Toyota did a lube oil filter 5,000 miles prior???? I would think the bolts wouldn't have rusted that bad in 5,000 miles. I had to crank on them to get em out, broke one. Maybe the lube tech gave up on trying to find out where the filter was. I'm missing a couple bolts too from previous owner / Toyota loosing them. I will be doing all my own oil changes from now on.

A strong suggestion is to get the Fumoto valve stated in this thread. The oil comes out full stream right at the passenger tire, makes a mess.

Also being on the East Coast where salt is used, is there any product I could apply or spray on the bolts to prevent them from rusting?

Have to turn off my outdoors faucets in the winter so they won't freeze; as such, no way to rinse off after each snowfall.
 
BigDouggieDoug thanks for the write up. Its always nice to have pictures along with an explanation before you dive into any maintenance.

I also did the "L" part of the "L,O, and F", Toyota did not make it easy to access the grease fittings on the front drive shaft. 6 more bolts and a lot of squirming to get at them.

ymc226, I would not worry about the bolt heads to much, the bolt threads yes. I applied Permatex anti-seize lubricant to the skid plate bolts, it's more tenacious than plain grease.
 
I know it's been a while since this thread was active but am wondering if I use ramps only on the front wheels to get better access to change the oil, does the truck being slanted at that angle not let all of the oil drain out of either the sump or oil filter?
 
Ramps are perfect


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Ramps are perfect

I agree. Ramps on front wheels only put the oil drain plug at the very bottom of the oil system - a very good thing.

HTH
 
Get a lift and 35"s and you will not need any ramps to change the oil. :p
 
Finally got around to doing the oil change on the beast... thank you BigDouggieDoug for the write up! Anyone know what the metal tab/clicker is for on the edge of filter housing/base, what it's purpose?
 
Finally got around to doing the oil change on the beast... thank you BigDouggieDoug for the write up! Anyone know what the metal tab/clicker is for on the edge of filter housing/base, what it's purpose?

It is there to keep the filter cartridge from backing off and you losing all the oil if it was not tightened. Well designed- of course.
 
As far as oil changes go, on a scale of 1:banana: (easy) to 10 :banana: (hard), this ranks a :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:.

What a PITA! I just did this for the first time and with the skid plates, splash guards, 3 diff size bolts, cartridge oil filter, oil filter canister drain plug :bang:, and the fact that I did this in my home garage and didnt have my right filter wrench to remove it, and had to use a pair of pliers vertically inserted into the filter cap to remove it, slowly!, plus the knuckle-dragger that did it last time must have torqued it to 48 ft/lbs, not 18......ughh, not like a 2F. Hell, I don't have to use a single tool on my 7.3L PSD, just flip the fujimoto valve and remove and install the giant filter with my bare hand.
 
As far as oil changes go, on a scale of 1:banana: (easy) to 10 :banana: (hard), this ranks a :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:.

What a PITA! I just did this for the first time and with the skid plates, splash guards, 3 diff size bolts, cartridge oil filter, oil filter canister drain plug :bang:, and the fact that I did this in my home garage and didnt have my right filter wrench to remove it, and had to use a pair of pliers vertically inserted into the filter cap to remove it, slowly!, plus the knuckle-dragger that did it last time must have torqued it to 48 ft/lbs, not 18......ughh, not like a 2F. Hell, I don't have to use a single tool on my 7.3L PSD, just flip the fujimoto valve and remove and install the giant filter with my bare hand.
After much suffering I drilled out and threaded all the holes to match the largest bolts or a +1 size, don't remember exactly, so I just need one socket to get the plate off. And with a steel skid plate I just pull of one plate. To me it's a :banana: job as I have access to a lift, if I did it under the cruiser I'd probably need a new nose from the skid plate falling flat on my face :hillbilly:
 
Did this today. Pretty straight forward and particularly easy with the recommended filter socket. Unfortunately, it was also easy because whomever did the change last time left off 2 of the skid plates. This is the exact reason I do these things myself...looks like I'm in the market for aftermarket skid plates.

One question though, I reset the display maintenance items but still show oil maintenance required on the speedo dash. How do you reset that? Please don't say tech stream required.
 
That sucks about your skids man. I believe it though, lube techs are bottom feeding mouth breathers who will never again touch a vehicle I own (Toyota dealers included). If I offended any lube techs on this forum, feel free to defend yourselves but I ain't buying what your selling. My opinions come from multiple experiences over many years, it would take as many above perfect experiences to change my opinions.

Sorry for the rant 'MUD


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They should have put the oil filter in a location thats easier to access, thats all there is to it.
 
They should have put the oil filter in a location thats easier to access, thats all there is to it.
just did mine yesterday for the second time, yep, the biggest pain in the ass is getting to the damn thing!!! I think some members have made a hole in the skid plate to better access it???
 
just did mine yesterday for the second time, yep, the biggest pain in the ass is getting to the damn thing!!! I think some members have made a hole in the skid plate to better access it???
That's a good option, also I'm not sure how easy it is to fab up a sort of trap door which can be unlatched or unbolted for access and still keep some sort of minimal protection. I would've definitely made some sort of access hatch if didn't have access to a lift
 
Also being on the East Coast where salt is used, is there any product I could apply or spray on the bolts to prevent them from rusting?

Have to turn off my outdoors faucets in the winter so they won't freeze; as such, no way to rinse off after each snowfall.

Look at Liquid Film. Very, very good. Also, consider Fram's drain system. I prefer it to Fumoto valve. Better design.
 
It is there to keep the filter cartridge from backing off and you losing all the oil if it was not tightened. Well designed- of course.
So I broke my tab off accidentally awhile ago, conscious of this I have been giving the filter a bit more torque in the end as a precaution. Has anyone come up with a fix without losing a limb or two worth the cash???
 

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