oh no! metal in oil pan! (3 Viewers)

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you are grasping at straws...

how much is the oil pressure dropping?
how much has the ambient temp changed?
have you changed your oil recently?
if not, why not?

is it a substantial change in pressure or just minimal?
 
crushers said:
you are grasping at straws...
Click to expand...

Yeah, I know.

crushers said:
how much is the oil pressure dropping?
how much has the ambient temp changed?
have you changed your oil recently?
if not, why not?

is it a substantial change in pressure or just minimal?
Click to expand...

Its not an overall drop in pressure that has me concerned. Instead, pressure builds normally to ~33psi at 2500 rpm. As the rpms go up, however, the pressure then starts to decrease. Not a whole lot, but if I've been really pushing it and the truck is super hot it might only have 30 psi at 3000 rpm. It used to keep building pressure so that it was in spec (>36psi) at 3000rpm... now I'm deficient unless the oil is still cool in the mornings. :(
 
the days are getting warmer, oil thins as it gets to operating temp.

hint:
you can go through life worrying about the little things or keep an eye on it and just drive it. 6 psi is a little thing 20 psi drop then i might be concerned...
 
I personally would continue driving and just have a look at it next oil change.

It might be the inside of a pump housing or whatever... as long as the oil pressure is good and it runs smooth I would not be concerned.

It's not an Aircraft engine.
 
well thats the point - the oil pressure is now below spec.

i used the "wait and see" approach maybe 6000 miles ago when I found the metal and everything was still in spec...

Ill have to think on it, but I'll probably still drive it in the meantime.
 
seriously...
i wonder how many 3Bs i have owned that had below spec oil pressure...

but

if it is keeping you up at night then best do something about it...
 
Just a thought - if you have the pan off, pull the bearing caps one at a time to check for signs of distress. If the thrust bearing is gone, you can position a dial indicator on the end of the crank and then use a pry bar to move the crank back and forth to check the end play.

I'm unfamiliar with the 3B but does it have an oil pump with aluminum housing. Could the metal have come from there?
 
astr said:
Just a thought - if you have the pan off, pull the bearing caps one at a time to check for signs of distress. If the thrust bearing is gone, you can position a dial indicator on the end of the crank and then use a pry bar to move the crank back and forth to check the end play.

I'm unfamiliar with the 3B but does it have an oil pump with aluminum housing. Could the metal have come from there?
Click to expand...

I spoke of it in another thread, but I've already checked and plastigauged the mains and BEBs - all fine and in spec
 
Have you had any oil analysis done on this engine ever? It might be a good idea as they can tell you ALOT. The metal they find tells them where it comes from, they can even tell if the air filter needs replacing!?!

An oil analysis is cheaper than any work you'd be doing including simply pulling off the oil pan. Finning was selling the oil analysis kit for $15/ea. last time I did mine.
 
Have you considered that the bits you found are or were actually flat? Looks to me like the "lip" could be from wear rather than manufacture.
 
Hello,
That mess is your #3 thrust bearing. Go out to your truck and push on the clutch pedal lightly, you will be able to feel the play in the pedal. Or better yet have someone do the clutch pedal trick and you put your hand on the crank pulley, the FSM gives something in the .006 range for the thrust brg clearance. If you feel the pulley push forward its too much clearance and will be the thrust bearing.
Bet you lunch this is the problem!
Ask me how I know!
eric
P.S. Pull the #3 main cap off and you will see the bearing missing, if you are lucky, you won't have a trashed block.
 
Otterav said:
Hello,
That mess is your #3 thrust bearing. Go out to your truck and push on the clutch pedal lightly, you will be able to feel the play in the pedal. Or better yet have someone do the clutch pedal trick and you put your hand on the crank pulley, the FSM gives something in the .006 range for the thrust brg clearance. If you feel the pulley push forward its too much clearance and will be the thrust bearing.
Bet you lunch this is the problem!
Ask me how I know!
eric
P.S. Pull the #3 main cap off and you will see the bearing missing, if you are lucky, you won't have a trashed block.
Click to expand...

Exactly my thoughts, but turns out it isn't that. I pulled the mains months ago operating under that assumption and they were all fine, including #3 which has the thrust bearing attached to it...

Also the pieces are definitely not flat. I think I agree that the "lip" may just be a wear surface, but all of the pieces have curvature to them like a bearing shell.
 
I'm not real familiar with Toyota diesels, but most diesels are sleeved inside the cyclinder. Is there any chance that it could be sleeve material? Have you done a compression check?

Ask me how I know: This is the sleeve out of my diesel. I didn't catch it in time, and lost the whole sleeve and completely trashed the block. The only indicator of this problem was it keep smoking real bad. Cycliner was firing, just not burning completely. Hope you solve your problem.

Pam

PICT2936.jpg
 
Compression is good, 390-400 all cylinders, if I remember correctly.

Its not sleeve material, I put a propane torch on it and it melted in seconds - that means its definitely not steel like the sleeves would be.

Also, @ your picture: HOLY s***! :eek::eek:
 
This out of my original 4-236 Perkins. The Sleeves were straight without a flange, so it worked lose and slowly got ate up with the crank. This was discovered after replacing the injection pump and injectors trying to fix the problem. Hope you find your source.

Here is the top of the piston:
PICT2935.jpg
 
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