Offroading, towing, and family hauling with a 3G Tree (2 Viewers)

[worldinchaos]

Since I've been hijacking halfpint's thread, I figured I should make my own.

Bought our 2023 Sequoia TRD Pro in March. Waited patiently for a local dealer with 0 markup to get the allocation, we were the second TRD Pro on the list. Has pano roof, grey interior, no tow mirrors.

Multigenerational family here as the in laws moved in with us a few years ago, so we frequently find ourselves transporting 4 adults and 2 kids places. We also have a variety of towing needs from sailboat/kayak on trailer to construction trailers, to travel trailers. Also, would love to be able to tow the BJ40 out to trails on a flatbed. Finally, we do a lot of camping/hiking/backpacking and enjoy using off-road trails to get to those remote locations.

The combo of these 3 needs led us to the 3G Sequoia as soon as it was announced. We've already done a couple long road trips, towed 6500 pounds 2000 miles with all 6 of us out to western CO and back, and even did most of Yankee Boy Basin trail (snowpack stopped us eventually). The tree has been a champ. The massive size on trails took some getting used to, but having the cameras and electric motor felt like cheating. I could have driven very sloppy and not planned a track through most of it and my only risk would have been ripping off the rear bumper plastic. As for towing it has ample power but sucks gas like there is no tomorrow...with only a 23 gallon tank.

Mod-wise, I have added a Talon cat shield/skid plate, Yakima platform rack, a lightbar, and some basic interior accessories.

Next up is a CBI covert bumper+ winch+ replacement fogs, Westcott 3/1 lift, and once I finish off these tires I will swap for 35s. I am also planning a rear storage system, but haven't worked through the details yet.

 

[worldinchaos]

How about a roof rack update? Personally, while I enjoy the functionality of the various full profile roof racks, I don't like the massive bulk it adds. I also wanted to preserve pano roof functionality, which limits me to something like the Westcott Modular rack. I only occasionally throw long lumber on the roof, mostly sheet goods or shorter lengths which don't require the full size rack. For off-roading, it is mainly traction boards, a fuel can, and maybe a farm jack (although I haven't determined suitable jack points yet on the TreeCruiser.

I started with the factory cross rails and a Yakima Lock N Load small platform rack. It has satisfied all my needs for 6 months, except it is so unnecessarily high and was creating wind noise. So I did a lot of completely unnecessary work to simply lower it by 2.25"....

Some metal brackets I fabbed out of 3/16" stock:

Painted and mounted, they still provide sufficient clearance for the pano roof (ignore the wire, I hadn't finished securing it yet):

Then I notched the plastic rail caps to fit the brackets:

And while I was at it, I added a 30" light bar.

I wired the bar through a gland seal just behind the forward driver side rack mount, down the C pillar, under the 3rd row armrest area, back to a relay on the battery, operated by an AOB Offroad square switch (slightly darker plastic and dimmer backlight, but otherwise OEM appearance). Dropping the headliner and pulling off the rear plastic panels was definitely the hardest part of this, I must have used 8-10 replacement panel clips because of how many snapped upon removal.

And yes... I also started on the winch power project even though I won't receive the bumper until 2024.

 

[worldinchaos]

Final thoughts--If the TRD roof rack had come with the rig I probably would have just made do with the low weight capacity and wind noise and not swapped it out. However, the bulk of the giant cross rails and height of the Yakima load platform as I installed it made me confident that I could design something better, and it came out lower than the TRD with what I believe to be a much greater weight capacity, due to the strength of the Yakima platform and the brackets. The wind noise is very low, but I might see if I can reduce it further if I bring it forward on the mounts, further into the vortex shedding area just behind the top of the windscreen. I chose the current position so that it is easier to load lumber from the rear over the tailgate and to minimize how much of the pano roof visibility is blocked (for rear passengers).

Side profile (before adding the notched rail caps):

Comparison to TRD rack, potato quality creep photo I took in a parking lot for research purposes:

 

[worldinchaos]

As for the lightbar, I don't do off-road night driving frequently enough to justify a $600 Baja Designs solution, so in case you are curious, here is a SuperBrightLEDs utilitarian solution with photos facing up a slight grass hill:

 

[worldinchaos]

Dry fitting my storage solution.

 

[luwig]

How about a roof rack update? Personally, while I enjoy the functionality of the various full profile roof racks, I don't like the massive bulk it adds. I also wanted to preserve pano roof functionality, which limits me to something like the Westcott Modular rack. I only occasionally throw long lumber on the roof, mostly sheet goods or shorter lengths which don't require the full size rack. For off-roading, it is mainly traction boards, a fuel can, and maybe a farm jack (although I haven't determined suitable jack points yet on the TreeCruiser.

I started with the factory cross rails and a Yakima Lock N Load small platform rack. It has satisfied all my needs for 6 months, except it is so unnecessarily high and was creating wind noise. So I did a lot of completely unnecessary work to simply lower it by 2.25"....

Some metal brackets I fabbed out of 3/16" stock:

View attachment 3482292

Painted and mounted, they still provide sufficient clearance for the pano roof (ignore the wire, I hadn't finished securing it yet):
View attachment 3482293

Then I notched the plastic rail caps to fit the brackets:
View attachment 3482294

And while I was at it, I added a 30" light bar.
View attachment 3482300

I wired the bar through a gland seal just behind the forward driver side rack mount, down the C pillar, under the 3rd row armrest area, back to a relay on the battery, operated by an AOB Offroad square switch (slightly darker plastic and dimmer backlight, but otherwise OEM appearance). Dropping the headliner and pulling off the rear plastic panels was definitely the hardest part of this, I must have used 8-10 replacement panel clips because of how many snapped upon removal.
View attachment 3482303
And yes... I also started on the winch power project even though I won't receive the bumper until 2024.

Those switches for the winch and roof lights are seriously cool! Can't wait to see what mods and adventures you have planned for this bad boy!

 

[NinjahGoose]

How did you find out the LockNload Platform would fit? I pick up my Sequoia on Tuesday and would like to get cross bars or maybe a platform that is rated to carry at least some weight. On the Yakima website they don't have anything that fits the Sequoia.

 

[worldinchaos]

How did you find out the LockNload Platform would fit? I pick up my Sequoia on Tuesday and would like to get cross bars or maybe a platform that is rated to carry at least some weight. On the Yakima website they don't have anything that fits the Sequoia.

I originally just did a universal solution by buying the OEM Toyota crossbars, the Yakima Lock N Load Crossbar Clamps, and a Load Platform K. Not necessarily the cheapest links, just the first that came up. You could fit larger than Platform K if you don't have the pano roof or are OK covering it. The K size was nice because it is narrower and doesn't extend past the OEM roof rails.

However, the wind noise and height limitations for parking garages ( after future lift ) caused me to make those custom brackets and bolt them directly to the load platform. It dropped it enough to nearly eliminate wind noise, still clears the sharkfin antenna and pano roof when open, and puts the weight bearing roof mount points almost directly under the edge rails.

 

[NinjahGoose]

I originally just did a universal solution by buying the OEM Toyota crossbars, the Yakima Lock N Load Crossbar Clamps, and a Load Platform K. Not necessarily the cheapest links, just the first that came up. You could fit larger than Platform K if you don't have the pano roof or are OK covering it. The K size was nice because it is narrower and doesn't extend past the OEM roof rails.

However, the wind noise and height limitations for parking garages ( after future lift ) caused me to make those custom brackets and bolt them directly to the load platform. It dropped it enough to nearly eliminate wind noise, still clears the sharkfin antenna and pano roof when open, and puts the weight bearing roof mount points almost directly under the edge rails.

All great points. I do have have the pano glass and would like to retain access to it. I'm thinking just maybe some crossbars from Thule or Yakima to reduce wind noise but still be able to carry a Christmas tree.

 

[worldinchaos]

Storage solution is mostly done. I have the 3rd row 4" from the rear (~2" from the front), 1/4" to 1/2" of clearance to door when closed, top surface is even with the folded seat surface, and bottom is resting on the seat base/HV battery cover. With minimal gaps and a section at the back for a mounting rail and to add more cabinet rigidity, that left two 5.5" x 15.25" x 22.5" drawer boxes, producing only 2.2 cubic feet of space. It doesn't sound like much, but the secure drawers allowed me to shove a lot of trail gear in, like tools, recovery gear, air fittings, hi lift service kit, etc.

I added a hinged access hatch on the right side which will hold the more urgent recovery accessories so that it is easier to access if something is blocking the rear door from opening (a scenario where I would have loved a powered sliding window...)

The other goal of the project was to give better tie down points for lumber, coolers, etc. so I recessed some L track into the back 2" of depth, which also has vertical ply struts for support as well as clamps that hook into the seat rails.

The whole system actually sits pretty securely in the same mounting slots that the "shelf" normally fits in, while also resting partially on the battery cover. Really the only disadvantage to this setup is lack of easy access to the 12v battery and OEM jack. I could cut and hinge that access cover but I am trying to minimize destructive mods. Besides, I can remove the whole thing in <1 minute. Overall, I am fairly content with the final result, but it is specific to my needs. Kids can easily sit in car seats in the 3rd row, or adults in a pinch. I can fold the seats down and have a nearly level platform with tie down points. I have accessible drawers for all my primary gear, and i can even shove some items underneath without worry that they will fall out.

PS. The contour map is a real image, bonus points if you guess the location.

 

[clrussell]

Very w

Storage solution is mostly done. I have the 3rd row 4" from the rear (~2" from the front), 1/4" to 1/2" of clearance to door when closed, top surface is even with the folded seat surface, and bottom is resting on the seat base/HV battery cover. With minimal gaps and a section at the back for a mounting rail and to add more cabinet rigidity, that left two 5.5" x 15.25" x 22.5" drawer boxes, producing only 2.2 cubic feet of space. It doesn't sound like much, but the secure drawers allowed me to shove a lot of trail gear in, like tools, recovery gear, air fittings, hi lift service kit, etc.

I added a hinged access hatch on the right side which will hold the more urgent recovery accessories so that it is easier to access if something is blocking the rear door from opening (a scenario where I would have loved a powered sliding window...)

The other goal of the project was to give better tie down points for lumber, coolers, etc. so I recessed some L track into the back 2" of depth, which also has vertical ply struts for support as well as clamps that hook into the seat rails.

The whole system actually sits pretty securely in the same mounting slots that the "shelf" normally fits in, while also resting partially on the battery cover. Really the only disadvantage to this setup is lack of easy access to the 12v battery and OEM jack. I could cut and hinge that access cover but I am trying to minimize destructive mods. Besides, I can remove the whole thing in <1 minute. Overall, I am fairly content with the final result, but it is specific to my needs. Kids can easily sit in car seats in the 3rd row, or adults in a pinch. I can fold the seats down and have a nearly level platform with tie down points. I have accessible drawers for all my primary gear, and i can even shove some items underneath without worry that they will fall out.

PS. The contour map is a real image, bonus points if you guess the location.

View attachment 3493193
View attachment 3493194
View attachment 3493195
View attachment 3493202

Very well done. I looked at a sequioa and imagined this as I was looking. The drawer in my 200 is just so dang handy to have on a daily basis. I’d have to have something similar in anything else I got as well.

 

[NinjahGoose]

Storage solution is mostly done. I have the 3rd row 4" from the rear (~2" from the front), 1/4" to 1/2" of clearance to door when closed, top surface is even with the folded seat surface, and bottom is resting on the seat base/HV battery cover. With minimal gaps and a section at the back for a mounting rail and to add more cabinet rigidity, that left two 5.5" x 15.25" x 22.5" drawer boxes, producing only 2.2 cubic feet of space. It doesn't sound like much, but the secure drawers allowed me to shove a lot of trail gear in, like tools, recovery gear, air fittings, hi lift service kit, etc.

I added a hinged access hatch on the right side which will hold the more urgent recovery accessories so that it is easier to access if something is blocking the rear door from opening (a scenario where I would have loved a powered sliding window...)

The other goal of the project was to give better tie down points for lumber, coolers, etc. so I recessed some L track into the back 2" of depth, which also has vertical ply struts for support as well as clamps that hook into the seat rails.

The whole system actually sits pretty securely in the same mounting slots that the "shelf" normally fits in, while also resting partially on the battery cover. Really the only disadvantage to this setup is lack of easy access to the 12v battery and OEM jack. I could cut and hinge that access cover but I am trying to minimize destructive mods. Besides, I can remove the whole thing in <1 minute. Overall, I am fairly content with the final result, but it is specific to my needs. Kids can easily sit in car seats in the 3rd row, or adults in a pinch. I can fold the seats down and have a nearly level platform with tie down points. I have accessible drawers for all my primary gear, and i can even shove some items underneath without worry that they will fall out.

PS. The contour map is a real image, bonus points if you guess the location.

View attachment 3493193
View attachment 3493194
View attachment 3493195
View attachment 3493202

That looks great! I'm still on the fence about going with the Goose Gear 3 row delete for extra cargo room. My delivery day got pushed out to between 11/30-12/6 so we will see how I feel about the cargo situation when the time comes.

 

[worldinchaos]

That looks great! I'm still on the fence about going with the Goose Gear 3 row delete for extra cargo room. My delivery day got pushed out to between 11/30-12/6 so we will see how I feel about the cargo situation when the time comes.

Congrats! Definitely try experimenting with it for a few weeks or even months first. The shelf actually grew on me, and I realized there wasn't anything really wrong with the high load platform. In some ways, it is nice because I am 6'3" and it is a more natural working height. My bigger issue is that I have never had 2nd row captains chairs and it leaves a lot of space for stuff to fall/roll forward between the seats. Without adding a cargo molle panel or equivalent I'm not sure what to do about that.

 

[NinjahGoose]

Congrats! Definitely try experimenting with it for a few weeks or even months first. The shelf actually grew on me, and I realized there wasn't anything really wrong with the high load platform. In some ways, it is nice because I am 6'3" and it is a more natural working height. My bigger issue is that I have never had 2nd row captains chairs and it leaves a lot of space for stuff to fall/roll forward between the seats. Without adding a cargo molle panel or equivalent I'm not sure what to do about that.

Gotcha. I'll def give the stock configuration a go before making any decisions.

 

[Halfpint]

hmmm...this is sorted really well! kudos! what is the weight of that unit? My concern would be with moisture/water - a polyboard would defeat elements/ impact damage but at the cost of more weight...

Also just noticed we have the same trashbin

 

[worldinchaos]

hmmm...this is sorted really well! kudos! what is the weight of that unit? My concern would be with moisture/water - a polyboard would defeat elements/ impact damage but at the cost of more weight...

Also just noticed we have the same trashbin
View attachment 3494346

Total weight came in at ~47 lbs including the L track, HD locking drawer slides, and installation hardware. Mostly 1/2" blondewood ply, with 3/4" for the faces and the back support structure, glued and pocket screwed. If I was to go larger I would have made an 80/20 frame with 3mm baltic birch skins and 12mm top surface, but once I decided to only go up to the folded seat height it made the construction simple.

I was originally going to route out some cavities on the side, center panel, and base to save weight but figured I would try it out for a few months and see if I have any other changes.

And yeah, that trash can is perfect size, I just have to keep moving it depending on if we have 4, 6, or 7 people on the trip.

 

[luwig]

What kind of trashcan is that?

 

[Halfpint]

What kind of trashcan is that?

https://a.co/d/i3hGBfV

 

[worldinchaos]

https://a.co/d/i3hGBfV

You beat me to it.

And since no one tried guessing, the topo map is Sequoia National Park...

 

[Halfpint]

Sequoia National Park...

Heyohhh!