Offroad Snow Driving Tips?

[nobrks]

[quote=SimonInAustralia;
Arrg lost my reply!
I will reply again within 24h

 

[eleblanc]

Thanks for the tips so far, and your video, your rig does move around quite a lot on the snow. I assume by the french speaking that you are somehwere French Canadian like Quebec?

No lockers as yet, but definately plan to get front and rear lockers before our winter, they are next on the list of modifcations to do (before stepping up in tyre size).

I am trying to decide between ARB Air Lockers or new models of the Eaton ELocker (electric) that have been recently developed for the 70 series (and other Toyotas such as the hilux and 80 series) in conjunction with an Australian auto performance company called Harrop Engineering. Can't really find much information on how the Eaton ELocker design compares to the ARB Air Lockers in terms of use and reliability.

And yes, not much snow in those photos (not that we get much down here anyway, only on the tops of some mountains, not full coverage everywhere like you guys would get), and it is not the same area I am concerned about getting into this winter, as the area in that photo has well graded logging roads, instead of the rougher 4WD tracks in the other area I want to get in to.

I couldn't get any further up the road in the photo I posted above, as it was blocked by a fallen tree, and I had to skin up the road a few miles on my split snowboard (like skis) to get to the end of that road where the walking track up onto the top of the mountain started. The cover got a little deeper and the road a little steeper up near the top of it. I'll need to get a chainsaw as well to deal with the fallen trees that often block the roads in that state forest.

Yes i'm around montreal, Quebec. Lots of snowboarding here!

from what i (think) i know, the air lockers engage kinda faster then electric. Something electric are picky, at least the OEM from toyota, don't know about eaton.

 

[SimonInAustralia]

Arrg lost my reply!
I will reply again within 24h

Yes, please do, I have seen the Artic Trucks cruisers and have been interested in that style.

Could you tell me what you had to do to make the 38's fit onto your cruiser?

Could you post a couple of larger pics of your cruiser with the 38's?

I would like to go to 38's eventually, but there seems to be too much in the way of mods to get that happening right away.

 

[nobrks]

driving in snow

Arrg I lost my reply twice again!

You should let the air out of the tires until you have about 10-15cm to the rim (same preassure in all tires). You must have a high-lift jack and air to refill the tires.
When you arrive at the cabin, you should fill the tires up, so melting snow between the rim and tire will not turn into ice, not a nice place to have Ice

If the truck is on the rim @ 12psi, then the tires are soft, and good for driving in snow.
I agree with Crushers, about going slow. If you are stuck, after going slowly, then you can start losen the truck by moveing it in by in without spinning the wheels. You can allways go back out after going slowly, but if you rush throug a pile of snow and don't make it all the way, then yo uwill have some hours on the shovel

Arctic trucks uses 100mm suspension lift on theyr 38" 70-seris, fender flair are about 130mm with.

My old one LJ73, had 40mm body lift, witch requiered a lot of body cutting, expecially in front of the front wheels.
The idial lift would bee 60mm suspension lift and body cutting.


Now I have HJZ73 witch is in modifycation process.

HERE are some video-links posted from me, where you can se 70cruisers in action!

 

[eleblanc]

AGAIN!?

 

[nobrks]

Yeah, and I don't know why?
the same thing happened when i tried to quote your post!

 

[crushers]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-tech/139874-expedition-bj74-buildup-5.html#post4097542
BJ74 with 37s in Alberta
his Mate has a BJ74 with 38s

 

[SimonInAustralia]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-tech/139874-expedition-bj74-buildup-5.html#post4097542
BJ74 with 37s in Alberta
his Mate has a BJ74 with 38s

Thanks for that link.

Though it looks like they are getting the extra tyre/guard clearance to allow the 37/38's to fit through the SOA conversion with the leaf springs all round, something I can't do due to the coil sprung front diff in my 78 series troopy, and that I probably don't want to do due to the higher COG it would create.

I think if I go up to 38's, which will probably be next year due to all the other gear I need for this winter, I'll chop and tub the guards as much as possible to give as much of the required tyre/guard clearance as possible, keeping the lift as minimal as I can.

 

[crushers]

okay, if you have 31s on it now (for sake of discussion) and you want to go to 38s then you need 3 1/2" of lift 38-31=7 / 2= 3.5" lift needed over stock

so if you want to stay SUA then a 2 1/2" OME/Dakar/Dobbinson spring lift + either 2" body lift or 1" body lift and 1" fender trimming will do the trick but you will need to drop the spring compression bumpers to prevent the tires from hitting the body.

 

[SimonInAustralia]

okay, if you have 31s on it now (for sake of discussion) and you want to go to 38s then you need 3 1/2" of lift 38-31=7 / 2= 3.5" lift needed over stock

so if you want to stay SUA then a 2 1/2" OME/Dakar/Dobbinson spring lift + either 2" body lift or 1" body lift and 1" fender trimming will do the trick but you will need to drop the spring compression bumpers to prevent the tires from hitting the body.

Standard troopy 7.5/16 tyres come in at slightly under 32 inch diameter.

Not sure what extra clearance is needed for the snow chains, maybe 2 inches on the diameter (1 inch each side) to be safe?

So, for 38's + snow chains, it might be 40 inches in tyre/chain diameter to deal with.

That is 8 inches extra diameter, or 4 inches radius I need to clear on each side of the tyre (top/rear/etc.).

I have a 2 inch body lift at the moment.

I suppose I really need to get the tyres on the car first to work out how much guards would need to be chopped, if I want to keep the lift as minimal as possible.

I don't think it is as simple as just working off of the increase in diameter, as they would be much wider as well, 15.5 inch width vs 7.5 inch width of the standard troopy tyre, with less backspace on the rims (.5 to 1 inch less than the standard 4 inch backspace depending on what offset I go for), plus they would be on 10 inch wide rims vs the standard 5.5 inch wide troopy rins, which would put the outer edge of the tyres much further out, meaning they would probably not fit up into the wheel arch on full compression in the same way the skinny standard troopy tyres do.

I want to go an extra 2 inches of suspension lift later on, for extra travel, but don't really want to sacrifice that lift if possible for extra tyre clearance by fitting extended bump stops. But I might have to, depending on how much clearance guard chopping and tubbing will give me.

 

[crushers]

of course the wider the tire the more chopping will be necessary. mine was an example of just height.

Lowenbrau has come up with a really neat set of Lowen flares that remove the fender "lip" (downturn of metal) completely, maybe send him a contact for further explaination...

but if you are just after floatation then why not run a set of 33 X 15.5, this will give you the same floataion but you can still retain your gearing, lift and still have a streetable truck for DD... just a suggestion...

 

[SimonInAustralia]

of course the wider the tire the more chopping will be necessary. mine was an example of just height.

Lowenbrau has come up with a really neat set of Lowen flares that remove the fender "lip" (downturn of metal) completely, maybe send him a contact for further explaination...

but if you are just after floatation then why not run a set of 33 X 15.5, this will give you the same floataion but you can still retain your gearing, lift and still have a streetable truck for DD... just a suggestion...

Thanks, I will contact him to see what his flares are like.

I'm pretty set on stepping up in diameter to at least 35's though, the 35x12.5 to begin with, and maybe later the 36x15.5 or 38x15.5, once I get the other mechaincal priorities sorted, such as front/rear lockers, longfields, rear winch/bar, etc.

 

[crushers]

35 X 15.5 are nice tires.
nice thing about snow, lack of traction = no broken birfs.
lockers are nice but if you really want to have fun leave it open for the first couple seasons.

 

[eleblanc]

I agree with Crushers, about going slow. If you are stuck, after going slowly, then you can start losen the truck by moveing it in by in without spinning the wheels. You can allways go back out after going slowly, but if you rush throug a pile of snow and don't make it all the way, then yo uwill have some hours on the shovel

That is exactly what i was explaining. Not sure Crushers agreed tho...

 

[crushers]

common sense, if you do not know the terrain then slow makes sense.
if you are tackling a steep hill then momentum is your friend. if you are tackling deep snow then momentum is your friend.
the momentum will get you through where crawling along won't BUT if you do get stuck then it will take a bit more to get you out.
there is no fixed rule for winter wheeling, me, i love a winter speed run, you land a lot softer in winter.
the consistancey of the snow makes a difference also, if it is wet then momentum is needed, if it is crystelized then you can crawl, if it is early morning and there is frost on the snow then you can crawl.

i was not saying be stupid about winter wheeling, i was trying to say making a claim that speed is wrong is ... well ... wrong, sometimes speed is what you need. most important is steady forward momentum.

you are coming to the WSSR this spring right? if so then we can compare each others driving abilities in person.

cheers M8

 

[nobrks]

lift

From my old LJ73, I got 2" from body trimming, and had 1,6" body lift, total 3,6".
From 32" tire to 38" there is a 6" difference, so you would need minimum 3" lift.
...BUT the truth is that most of 38" tires are really 37" high when they are new!

...so the difference of high is only 5" and the need for theoratical lift is only 2,5" = 60mm
3,6" lift on my old one, was enough with old 38" and orginal 4" backspace.
New tires would have make some body touching.

Here the inside of the rear tires are slightly touching the body.

Why would you need chains on 38" tires?
38" are big enioug to drive on the snow (floating)

P.S. ...I agree with eleblanc and Crushers

 

[crushers]

i love the flares, where do we find these monsters?

 

[FRIZZLEFRY]

Dont really have anything to add other than to say,dont go alone Friends in a local club were out snow wheeling recently and found a family that spent the night in their truck because they were stuck and alone.

42s with 3psi,locked front n back and stuck ;p Someone in the group was able to get in front of me so I could winch off them

 

[nobrks]

fender flairs

[quote=crushers;
sdf:whoops:

 

[eleblanc]

common sense, if you do not know the terrain then slow makes sense.
if you are tackling a steep hill then momentum is your friend. if you are tackling deep snow then momentum is your friend.
the momentum will get you through where crawling along won't BUT if you do get stuck then it will take a bit more to get you out.
there is no fixed rule for winter wheeling, me, i love a winter speed run, you land a lot softer in winter.
the consistancey of the snow makes a difference also, if it is wet then momentum is needed, if it is crystelized then you can crawl, if it is early morning and there is frost on the snow then you can crawl.

i was not saying be stupid about winter wheeling, i was trying to say making a claim that speed is wrong is ... well ... wrong, sometimes speed is what you need. most important is steady forward momentum.

you are coming to the WSSR this spring right? if so then we can compare each others driving abilities in person.

cheers M8

What important is if you do not think you will keep afloat, go slow, cause otherwise you could end up jack up and having hour of fun. For me snow wheeling is driving in the 3-4' of snow, lots of snow over here. For me Driving in 6 inch of snow is just like driving in slippery mud.

Here, i went to help this guy this weekend, when i arrived he had just got himself out. But it took 8 hours to pull him out of this hole.

result afer trying to get himself out of it; broken draglink and brifield.

BTW: what is WSSR?