Official LX570s Picture Thread (8 Viewers)
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I love black. But it’s not a color…it’s a job
How much do those methods and tires weigh? My combo comes in at 84lbs, trying to gauge and see if thats good or not.
27lbs wheels
57lbs KO2s
27lbs wheels
57lbs KO2s
Your combo isn’t that special - plenty of folks run 275/70s……
Lol didn’t say it was special, this is probably the most common tire size imo. Just trying to see the other options in terms of weight combined. I wish they made a C rated tire this size but only E or SL
There's a misappropriated concern for wheel and tire weights on these boards. In a sports car that's one thing. But in a 6000lb pig...
There's also confusion that it's wheel and tire weight when it's primarily gearing impacts due to overall tire diameter.
275s belong on mid-size SUVs. 285 is (generally) stock width and every bit of that is needed for handling and cornering. Mix narrows with a squirmier taller profile tire with AT tread voids and cornering traction goes out the window. The party starts above 285s. But that's just one persons opinion.
I agree with the overall diameter having an impact on acceleration, however weight plays a big role also. I’m running 33” E tires 57lbs, I’ve also ran 33” SL load 46lbs (general grabber ATX) and truck felt significantly faster and brake better. Though both have same rotational mass, the difference was very noticeable. One can argue that while having skinnier tires will reduce handling but that can be negated by stiffer sidewalls and wider track of aggressive offset wheels. I feel like my new wheels and tires handle better than stock setup. Truck just feels slower and take a tad longer to brake that’s all.
Not negating what you're saying but this isn't a sports car. OZ Superleggera on the track at less than 16lbs did wonders. But weight in a tire and wheel for an off-roader often buys some of the best value in clearance, traction, and strength. The recipe of a moderate tire, to then throw on giant suspension lifts and bolt on tons of static weight, would have easily been better spent in tires for more performance all around.
It's also not true that a LT-E tire has to ride stiff. That's another reason not to go narrows as the sidewalls stays more square making them feel stiffer. Combined with the overinflated RCTIP recommendations often on these boards.
The wider track you speak of...just know it might feel great on turn-in. But aggressive offsets mean compromised scrub radius where the tires aren't exactly working together to aim at the same point in a turn. No chance it handles better than stock.
I am hoping someday to catch a trip with @TeCKis300 and run a few trails with the wides and narrows in the same convoy on same trail conditions to see which excels where.
Until then, I’m happy to be in the skinny contingent and have yet to slide off the road aired up or aired down for lack of traction.
In my mind 10.5” wide is still a wide tire. It’s not as wide as 12.5”, but 265mm (roughly) is the stock width for a lot of corvette fronts, for example. It’s 3” wider than the tires on my other car.
I also drive pretty conservatively on pavement. Enjoy a corner as much as the next driver, but generally 5 over kind of driver.
On dirt I tend to catch a lot of vehicles, but I think that’s the truck on aired down 35s, and nothing to do with me. It’s just so darn comfy and stable thru the potholes.
Until then, I’m happy to be in the skinny contingent and have yet to slide off the road aired up or aired down for lack of traction.
In my mind 10.5” wide is still a wide tire. It’s not as wide as 12.5”, but 265mm (roughly) is the stock width for a lot of corvette fronts, for example. It’s 3” wider than the tires on my other car.
I also drive pretty conservatively on pavement. Enjoy a corner as much as the next driver, but generally 5 over kind of driver.
On dirt I tend to catch a lot of vehicles, but I think that’s the truck on aired down 35s, and nothing to do with me. It’s just so darn comfy and stable thru the potholes.
Gotta get out there with you guys one day!
For tires, it's about weight of the vehicle. Surface pressure matters, but for most situations beyond a certain point, it's generally better to spread it over a larger area. It's not by chance that the higher end factory off-road trims fit increasingly larger and wider tires. Bronco Sasquatch runs a 315s. 200-series are both bigger and heavier. Even as efficiency is a priority, the factory specials install full fat tires for competitive performance.
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I honestly have no idea. I did get the C load on the tires though. Only 1 day of driving so far but doesn't feel much different than stock.
Thats light for these parts.
I think ride and handling will end up being very subjective…and it’s super expensive to try a bunch of different sizes of wheels, sizes of tires, and types of tires.
-My 20’s with 275 60 r20 k02’s at the minimum load required psi (40ish) were jarring.
-20’s with 275 60 r20 passenger tires were excellent on the highway at 33 psi or so cold. But around town they were still a little jarring-seemed more oriented towards “handling” than comfort.
-my 17’s with 35x10.50r17 with load d’s at 33 psi feels ultra squishy around town…good times, very comfortable.
-On the highway, the 35’s at 33 psi felt like I had a little too much damping…bit squirrely.
-They feel pretty good at 40 psi on the highway (not as good as the 20’s on 33’s), but then around town they’re not as squishy and damped as they were at 33 psi.
I’m thinking the 285 70 r17 load c or e at 35 psi may end up being the Goldilocks for a my (heavy) lx570 and my uses…for more off-roading oriented, the 285 75 r17 I think…though I would take some care with the 33.8” tires and try to get lightweight wheels (method 705’s) and a lightweight or load c tire (cooper or toyo).
I don’t know whether wheel and tire weight will end up being a big variable…theoretically less weight would be less energy rushing upwards each time you hit a bump. One would expect performance and longevity of the suspension to improve if you reduce unsprung weight.
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I have taco neck
I think it's the 275 formula that has the most detriment to ride quality. As these tires in 17, 18, and even 20s require the most inflation pressure for equivalent load handling. Combine that with square tire sidewall geometry and relatively higher tread contact pressures on road. Aired down offroad, it'd be a different story. Yet they'd still need more relative PSI for load handling and bead retention. I've seen too many tires offroad come off the bead, or even burp air. Even at a relatively high 20PSI.
I have probably one of the heavier wheel and tires combos at 106lbs total (38lb wheel + 68lbs tire). Not saying that something to strive for and I set it up this way for towing stability. Just saying that weight is not the nemesis to ride quality as assumed. I've had both 305/55R20s and 35x12.5R20s, both heavy setups in LT-E, with less sidewall than most being 20s. The ride is splendid in both setups. It's obvious when a setup rides well. My passengers would have no clue as its anything other than Lexus. Both setups only needed 35PSI to meet load requirements. I actually prefer to run my 35s at 38-40PSI for the additional cornering stability with a taller tire setup as I drive aggressively. I do notice the difference between 35 an 40PSI, but both pressures ride like butter.
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I’m sure there’s something to the width.
That said, I think all the variables come into play.
-My 275 passenger 33’s were pretty supple at 27-29 psi around town.
-My lt 275 33’s were way too jarring at the prescribed 40 psi.
-my “266,” (10.50” wide) 35’s are ultra soft around town at 33 psi, and pretty good on the highway at 38-40 cold…
So far, based on my testing, sidewall height and pressure are the key variables…which makes sense when you think about how a tire wall flexes when you hit a bump while also transferring some energy up through the hubs into the suspension system…how much rubber it is tall and how stiffly it’s packed with air is going to have a huge impact on how much crushing/damping that the tires offer.
Width will play a roll in cushion of the tire too I think…spreading impact across a larger surface will help.
Weight may or may not be significant to damping…def some though…def has some other impacts (braking, wear and tear, etc)
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Good call on the 35x10.50r17. I believe they only need 35PSI to meet RCTIP? Floatation sizes are indeed constructed differently and more may be able to benefit from these over LT construction.
33 I think…fantastic tires for the money-$250 a piece. Makes it easier to test out sizes when they’re not $1250 for a set of 5 vs $2000.
