Media Official LX570s Picture Thread (16 Viewers)

Official Photo/Video thread

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It’s not a great shot but I finally deleted the resonator. The guy did a good job but clearly didn’t understand exactly what I wanted because I wanted the turndown to not extend lower than the bumper. I didn’t have time to leave it longer so I’ll have to either take it back, or I can probably just trim it a little.

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How does it sound? Any drone? Would you say it sounds AMG esque in any way? Chasing that sound more than a typical v8 truck sound
 
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@JadeMonkey More details/pics of trimming/heat gun work...plz...no front upper control arm rubbing?
 
I posted most of these on my IG, but figure I would add here.

Added the Rhino-Rack 84"x49" Pioneer Platform on the Backbone system. Instructions were good. Removing the old rack was easy. Only thing was I had to move two cross bars which wasn't hard.
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Also turned my Toyota Tundra TRD wheels to Lexus LX570 LRD wheels... :grinpimp:
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You got some explaining to do bro....Ha.... Did you simply remove toyota Sombrero and glue on a Lexus badge on oem tundra center caps or? Do you have part numbers on the roof rack platform and mounting system?
 
Looks great! Details please...
I would like to do this as well, appreciate any info
You got some explaining to do bro....Ha.... Did you simply remove toyota Sombrero and glue on a Lexus badge on oem tundra center caps or? Do you have part numbers on the roof rack platform and mounting system?
I ordered some cheap Lexus center caps from ebay. I pried the sombrero off and stuck the new "L" pieces on. They weren't exactly snug so I used some VHB to assist in securing them. No damage done to the TRD center caps, so this would be easily reversible.
Any issues fitting 285/75/18’s? Running AHC lift or spacers? How much if any trimming?
No issues but it took some work. I have lifted the AHC using the bracket. Later I added the spring spacers but only because I was changing fluid and had it drained anyways. I did not need them to fit the tires. Wheel spacers I did need. I used 1.25" BORA spacers which did NOT require trimming the wheel studs - at least with the TRD wheels, although I suspect most wheels would not require it either. When I have the wheels off next, I'll snap some pics. I think I have a rotation coming due. I trimmed the rear side of the front wheel well after I removed the front mudflap thing. I did some reshaping of the liners using a heat gun. Best collection of info is here: LX570 wheel well "adjustments" for 35s

Rhino-Rack part numbers: Platform is JA8647 (or 42107BF depending on where you're looking) and Backbone is RTLB1.
 
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Later I added the spacers but only because I was changing fluid and had it drained anyways. I did not need them to fit the tires. Spacers I did need.
So you did or didn’t need spacers? You seem to accidentally contradict yourself here unless I am misunderstanding.
 
So you did or didn’t need spacers? You seem to accidentally contradict yourself here unless I am misunderstanding.
Corrected. I meant Spring Spacers and Wheel Spacers respectively.
 


2015 LX with a slimline II and a tepui tent. Really want to put some beefy tires on this thing, drives great but something about backcountry driving on 20s dont feel right. Maybe TRDs i guess.


Put some larger tires on her and you can have the best of both worlds with 20s. I get the small wheels and more rubber for hardcore or dedicated trail rigs. As I spend 95% of my miles on asphalt, on-road performance with handling and control, matters too, especially with a large heavy rig. Even more so for towing. In that setting is where I don't want to over bias for off-road performance, with delayed turn-in and soft response. 20s IMO, when paired with large diameter tires, 33-35s, can walk a better balance of on and off road performance, without giving up much of anything in either use.
 
Put some larger tires on her and you can have the best of both worlds with 20s. I get the small wheels and more rubber for hardcore or dedicated trail rigs. As I spend 95% of my miles on asphalt, on-road performance with handling and control, matters too, especially with a large heavy rig. Even more so for towing. In that setting is where I don't want to over bias for off-road performance, with delayed turn-in and soft response. 20s IMO, when paired with large diameter tires, 33-35s, can walk a better balance of on and off road performance, without giving up much of anything in either use.


I have been researching this since I purchased the car, what would you say is the perfect size without having to bend plastic or modify the lift? Currently have yokohama 285/50/r20 geolandars in my queue, seems like the best of both worlds with good off road and highway ratings.
 
I lean to larger and larger diameter tires these days as the platform handles it so well.

A no brainier drop in upsize would be a 285/55r20 (32.4"). Tires are some of the best lift and suspension upgrades you can do, and they provide clearance under the axle and compliance for off-road when aired down.
 
How does it sound? Any drone? Would you say it sounds AMG esque in any way? Chasing that sound more than a typical v8 truck sound

There is no discernible difference inside the cabin. It maybe a touch louder in the 2nd row, but not much.

On the outside, it is louder but not AMG esque in any way. It may growl a little more than stock, but not much.
 
I ordered some cheap Lexus center caps from ebay. I pried the sombrero off and stuck the new "L" pieces on. They weren't exactly snug so I used some VHB to assist in securing them. No damage done to the TRD center caps, so this would be easily reversible.

No issues but it took some work. I have lifted the AHC using the bracket. Later I added the spring spacers but only because I was changing fluid and had it drained anyways. I did not need them to fit the tires. Wheel spacers I did need. I used 1.25" BORA spacers which did NOT require trimming the wheel studs - at least with the TRD wheels, although I suspect most wheels would not require it either. When I have the wheels off next, I'll snap some pics. I think I have a rotation coming due. I trimmed the rear side of the front wheel well after I removed the front mudflap thing. I did some reshaping of the liners using a heat gun. Best collection of info is here: LX570 wheel well "adjustments" for 35s

Rhino-Rack part numbers: Platform is JA8647 (or 42107BF depending on where you're looking) and Backbone is RTLB1.
Just placed an order for these.. Looks like they will work... BTW, I have the same exact Tundra wheels in the same exact LX570👍
 
Got tint, head light/tail light restore, and chrome deleted this weekend. Chrome was wrapped to color match the rims.

Thanks @Tim Foil for the recommendation in this thread, I used Marcin @ Elite Car Group and had a great experience.

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Look great Big Jon. How do you like the handles? Marcin was a little worried about those so I didn’t do it.
Hi Tim,

With the understanding the car will live primarily in covered parking, Marcin & his wrapper guy said it would look cool and hold up. They did have to take off the door panels, which added to the cost. Logo painting and all the wrap ended up at $1300.

Jordan
 
Got tint, head light/tail light restore, and chrome deleted this weekend. Chrome was wrapped to color match the rims.

Thanks @Tim Foil for the recommendation in this thread, I used Marcin @ Elite Car Group and had a great experience.

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Really like the way these wheels look. Makes me reconsider my Icon Vector 5 order (which is still 5 weeks on backorder). Generally not a fan of fake beadlock, but these look pretty nice.
 
Lunch in Arizona then on to knoll lake for a swim and fish.

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Got tint, head light/tail light restore, and chrome deleted this weekend. Chrome was wrapped to color match the rims.

Thanks @Tim Foil for the recommendation in this thread, I used Marcin @ Elite Car Group and had a great experience.

Chrome delete looks great, final nudge for me to go graphite! Also rocking a pearl white LX and was first thinking of a matte wrap on the stock chrome, but then I found the graphite metalizer for plastidip and think that's the route I'll go. Unsure of how well it'd work on the handles with use, but then again it can just peel right off if need be. Cheers
 

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