OEM Subtank Retrofit/Install Project With Pics

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Regarding the DLC diagnostic page in post #1, if you get NO indicator light when jumpering the two terminals does that mean no faults are found?

I checked the indicator bulb and it is not burnt out. However, the CRUISE, ABS & Airbag icon all are flashing when I jumper the two terminal as it says on the BE-58 page from the Oz Toyota Manual.

I checked the sending units too & they both work and indicate full to empty when moved manually before inserting into tank.

Did any of you come across this issue with yours?

 

[elmariachi]

If the square indicator light on the switch is glowing green, you are fine. If its amber or amber flashing, you have a problemo. Be sure you are referencing the proper legend for the DLC, its printed inside the lid of the DLC housing itself.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Thanks Jim - The indicator bulb is NOT glowing when IGN is on. I haven't turned it over yet since I just finished hooking the main tank up late last night and only put less than 3 gallons of fuel in it. I am going to put some more in the main tank before I crank it. As for the illumination of the switch, it does glow green when the lights are on though and dims via the rheostat. Does that Sub indicator light only illuminate, normally when the transfer pump is energized and when using the DLC or should it glow all of the time? Also, I did use the pin diagram on the underhood diagnostic port to find Tc & E1. Also, does this need to be done with the IGN ON & engine off or runnning. Either way the IGN is ON. The instruction sheet didn't specify.

BTW - I just reread post #77, does this diagnostic only work with the fuel transfer ECU unplugged?

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Ok. I am very frustrated after spending several hours going through everything again. I have ohm'd out all of the connections again and they are all as per your instructions but I am still getting no indicator light while jumpering Tc & E1 or transfer pump activation when I hit the switch.

(*note - all of the stock wires & connections in my '96 are just like your '97 i.e. color of wires & switch pin outs.)

Is there a way to test the dash switch and or the transfer ECU that you came across? Those are the only two possibilities that I can think of.

 

[elmariachi]

Ok. I am very frustrated after spending several hours going through everything again. I have ohm'd out all of the connections again and they are all as per your instructions but I am still getting no indicator light while jumpering Tc & E1 or transfer pump activation when I hit the switch. Is there a way to test the dash switch and or the transfer ECU that you came across? Those are the only two possibilities that I can think of.

The DLC connections what allows you to test the integrity of the circuit AND the ECU. If the switch is wired wrong then needless to say, the DLC can't talk to you. Let's take this offline so I can assist. Check your email. Once we sort it out you can post up the findings.

Jim

 

[CycloSteve]

Well I have made it through the subtank test-fit, and all is going well to date.

I purchased the complete setup that Scotia had rescued from the Cash4Clunkers graveyard in Houston; Sub, Main, Filler, Hoses & Hardlines, ECU, Wiring looms, Sub switch, OH console, etc. Still gathering some replacement gaskets from Cdan and Dave at Japan4x4, but otherwise complete. Cleaning up the parts, and finding that most everything is in great shape considering that the rig was 16 years old, and originated in Egypt. Would love to know how the rig ended up in Houston, but that story may never be told. My gain, as I should have the complete setup done sometime this spring.

Here are a few shots of how I approached the issue of the Rivnuts. I ordered the M10 x 1.5 rivnuts from McMaster-Carr, plus their Rivnut installation tool. After reading the horror stories, I felt that the best approach was to install the front ones from above with nylock nuts, and only use the Rivnuts on the rear strap mounts. I measured things three times, then drilled a few small 1/8" test holes to get the final holesaw centered perfectly above the factory openings. I hit the mark on both sides, and was able to drill a set of 1" (ie 25mm) holes into the sheetmetal. I then prepped the holes, and painted with Rustoleum primer and paint that I had on hand. The holes were sealed with standard 25mm rubber plugs I sourced from my local Honda dealer (oops, sorry Toyota). For the rears, I used a 13.5mm bit, and the Rivnuts went in without any problem...worth getting the proper tool IMHO.

Will keep posting as the different stages progress. Essentially working on this as series of micro-projects over a number of weekends so that the truck always is ready to go at the end of the day.

Again, thanks to all who have done this before for their sage advice and guidance.



Steve

 

[jp importz]

Anyone else got their compass to work? It looks like a simple install but we never get the darn thing to work.
JP

 

[Aids10]

WOW!

 

[CycloSteve]

Anyone else got their compass to work? It looks like a simple install but we never get the darn thing to work.
JP

Going without the console for now, since I don't have the altimeter version. Have all the compass bits, just concerned that it will not work like so many others.



Steve

 

[chrisc16]

Is this project still do-able in late 2010? I've been keeping an eye on Ebay Oz every now and then, but I never come across any land cruiser sub tank parts. I saw that Oz salvage yards were mentioned, how do I locate one of those? And for the new part numbers listed in the first post, are those available through US dealers?

I really like the idea of going OEM for a sub-tank, but I'm not sure how to go about sourcing parts.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[1FZj80]

I sourced everything from Spector Off Road. I did mine over 10 years ago, but SOR has always been a good source non-US parts.

 

[CycloSteve]

Hi Chris,

Yup, still doable, it will just take time and patience to assemble all the different bits and pieces. I was lucky that a fellow member was selling a complete setup.

The second part is the actual amount of time it can take to get everything installed. I have been off-and-on working on mine for the past nine months, with the objective of keeping the truck running inbetween each mini-project.

So far I have cleaned up the tanks, POR-15'd them on the inside, fitted the rear tank, painted everything, drilled all the appropriate holes and brackets, gathered miscellaneous bits and pieces such as hoses and gaskets, and almost finished with my custom loom in the kick-panel (see page 1 & 2 of this thread), etc.

Is it worth it? I am definitely looking forward to passing more fuel stations on long trips. El Mariachi (Jim) is the man for the OEM setup, and he helped me confirm my wiring plans before I started down that path.

Keep looking on the Oz eBay, and perhaps see if any fellow members from Oz may be able to help you find a good setup for your rig.



Steve

Is this project still do-able in late 2010? I've been keeping an eye on Ebay Oz every now and then, but I never come across any land cruiser sub tank parts. I saw that Oz salvage yards were mentioned, how do I locate one of those? And for the new part numbers listed in the first post, are those available through US dealers?

I really like the idea of going OEM for a sub-tank, but I'm not sure how to go about sourcing parts.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[AustinCruiser]

This mod is now on my must-do list. What a cool thread.

 

[elmariachi]

Well the subtank Cruiser is 6 months gone to my good friends Pick and Darla in San Marcos, TX and I am enjoying my new Crewmax Tundra. If anyone around Austin wants to see the subtank truck in person it will probably be at Katemcy in the spring.

The subtank install was fun in many ways because I was hell bent on sorting out the OEM wiring. After all is said and done, I don't know if I would do it again just to pick up 13 gallons. If I could have bought the parts in a bundle and had wiring info on-hand ready to go, then maybe. Funny thing is, I spent several months on this but if I had it all sitting ready to go, I could install the entire system in a day.

Your BEST source for new parts is Dave Stedman, who is member Japan4x4 here on Mud. He is in Japan and can source a number of the hard-to-find parts. As far as Australian salvage yards, they have been pretty well picked over. Your best bet would be to get online with an Australian map and search major city salvage words, like "Perth auto salvage" or "Melbourne dismantlers". After 20+ calls and emails that's how I found the overhead wiring and console.

If you want to keep it original, this is not a project for the wimps. It involves a lot of bird-dogging parts, lots of research and reading here and bit of "know-how." Most of what I know or have is in this thread, and given that the truck is gone to a new home I am without a finite point of reference. But if anyone has any questions, email me and I'll try my best to help. I do have more pics I can supply for those who actually undertake this. And I work in Austin if anyone wants some local involvement.

Jim

 

[chrisc16]

Thanks for the input guys!

A dual-filler neck popped up on ebay in the past few days. This should fit my 95 FZJ80 right? And can anyone identify the second item he has, would that be a part that I need?

Thanks,
Chris

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Elmariachi - you sold the Cruiser!

Wow.

I still haven't had a chance to get mine working.

I need to find the time to go back through the wiring and figure out why it's not working.

For now, the switch and control box are unplugged.

Anyone in SoCal who want to lend a hand with this, send me a PM.

 

[chrisc16]

Can anyone identify the part in the attached picture? I'm hoping that it's the sub tank pump, but I have absolutely no idea what it should look like.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[CycloSteve]

Can anyone identify the part in the attached picture? I'm hoping that it's the sub tank pump, but I have absolutely no idea what it should look like.

Thanks,
Chris

That is indeed most of the the transfer pump assembly, but it is missing the long bracket which bolts to the truck.

The filler neck looks just like mine.

Looks like you are starting to collect the bits and pieces.



Steve

P.S. I have an extra tank switch if you like. Not pristine, but it is functional.

P.P.S. That seller also is selling the proper main tank off of an 80 with all the required sensors, etc...$20 AUS right now with no bids. You may want to send them a note via eBay to se what other goodies you can get out of the deal.

 

[themorb]

I just won a subtank from Ebay Australia. Shipping tomorrow via Seamail very excited!

Does anyone know about using the factory ECU -- do I absolutely have to install the main tank "level sender"? Or can I somehow fool the ECU into thinking the main tank is always below 75%?

Basically, I am not interested in dropping my main tank and cutting into it. If the factory ECU won't work, I'll stop looking for it and just go with a homemade ECU.

 

[chrisc16]

I just won a subtank from Ebay Australia. Shipping tomorrow via Seamail very excited!

Does anyone know about using the factory ECU -- do I absolutely have to install the main tank "level sender"? Or can I somehow fool the ECU into thinking the main tank is always below 75%?

Basically, I am not interested in dropping my main tank and cutting into it. If the factory ECU won't work, I'll stop looking for it and just go with a homemade ECU.

Lucky you! I won an auction last month, still waiting for the seller to arrange SeaMail, he claims it's not possible.

You only need to drop the main tank and cut it if you want to go fully factory, with the OEM ECU etc. If you don't care about that you can do as George did in his write-up and use his custom ECU.

-Chris