OEM Subtank Retrofit/Install Project With Pics (42 Viewers)

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Chris, you may want to contact a fellow Mudder in OZ and ask them for a bit of assistance (a few have participated in this thread early on). Perhaps the seller can send to them in OZ, and they can then send to you in the US...odds are the seller is having an issue with trying to send everything in one shipment (size), and may need to break it up into several shipments. Dunno, but local help may get the ball rolling once again.

:cheers:

Steve
 
Yep all I got in the auction was the subtank + straps. For some reason he is trying to do SeaMail through FedEx, even though I told him it should be through Aus Post. With the time difference, it seems like our back and forth email communication has gone very slowly.

-Chris
 
Awesome thread Jim.
FWIW Here is some Diesel subtank detail. A little different in that you just switch tanks via a pair of fuel solenoids as opposed to transferring fuel from sub to main.
I have a subtank and straps on the way from AUS already, and even though I am diesel I am thinking that I will go with the gasser style tank to tank transfer set up and use George's switch module...also on the way.
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Guys, I find this mob easy to deal with and they should organise post/freight (although some couriers won't take fuel tanks) Just get them to make sure the tank is free of fumes and box it up described as car parts not fuel tank. I can't really help other than that. BTW I have a 166lt replacement tank instead of the OEM 50lt job.
Toyota Car Wreckers | 4WD Wreckers from Gold Coast

:: Long Range Fuel & Water Tanks these are available thru ARB
 
That's actually a better set up. With the gasser set up, if you loose the transfer pump with no fuel in the main tank, you're S.O.L.

Good point.. although if one of the solenoid valves failed on the Diesel set up I guess you are also screwed..
well maybe a little less screwed since you could probably go under there and re and re a few hoses and get it changed over manually.
 
Good point.. although if one of the solenoid valves failed on the Diesel set up I guess you are also screwed..
well maybe a little less screwed since you could probably go under there and re and re a few hoses and get it changed over manually.

You may not have to re route any hoses at all, you may be able to manually open/close the valve on the unit. There may be a bolt that you can change the valve from open to closed and vice versa should the electric servo fail. Not sure as I've never seen the servo's but if this is the case at least you could crawl under there in a pinch.
 
True... I think I will see what I can scare up for diesel subtank parts, even if I have to buy new there is a whole lot less to buy... And no need to modify the main tank for the extra fuel level sensor either, Bonus.
I have a Walbro pusher pump just outside of my main tank right now, shouldn't gum up the works as long as I relocate it upstream of the Fuel tank switching solenoids.

If anyone has any spare diesel related sub tank misc that they want to sell let me know!
 
Do any of you Australian members have an Electrical Wiring Diagram book for a '95 or earlier 80 series?

If so would you be able to post up complete pictures of all of the pages that pertain to the sub tank "Fuel Transfer ECU" and "Fuel Tank Changeover Switch".

The one pictured in post #1 doesn't show the rest of the diagram... There should be several pages that show everything and diagnostic instructions in addition to the ones posted by el mariachi. At least the US EWD book has several pages for each sub system. I am hoping the OZ version does too.

Thanks in advance!
 
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Just received word that a sub tank system I bought on AU ebay should be at the dock next week. Months ago I received the overhead console and associated wiring harnesses, and the stuff on the boat should be essentially the rest of the OEM system (except the dash switch and associated wiring harness). I am looking forward to sorting out, between the two auctions what is there and what is still missing.

The stuff on the boat includes the main tank that goes with the rest of the sub tank system. Could have had them just send the fittings from the main tank, but had them send the entire tank.

My 80 is my DD, and want to minimize the down time when it comes time to install the sub tank system. If I have a main tank, is it practical to figure everything out and "bench test" the entire sub tank system end to end, before attempting to install ?
 
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I cleaned out my PM box if you want to PM me. The ECU tests itself so you are far better off getting your wiring done in the truck first. Nothing about this represents down time except dropping the main tank.

Jim
 
Thanks Jim, keep her cleaned out ! I expect a flood of emails.

My biggest concerns, are that the overhead console&wiring and the rest of the system&wiring came from two different rigs (possibly each different model years) and both different from my 1995. ( I believe they are a year or two older than my 1995). So even though this will for the most part be OEM components, it may not be a cleanly "stock" installation. Once I start "freestlying", I often find myself over my head and in uncharted waters

Maybe i am over-thinking this and anticipating the worst. This is simply the best thread on the subject, and has been invaluable to-date. if I can add anything I will post up.
 
Mine is working but I do not have the short sun visors....
 
S.Carolina.. I have all the General Market (AUS) EWDs for Gas and diesel 80 series pre and post 95 so I will snap some pics each version and post. Can also email to anyone who needs em.

aktundra, if you end up with doubles of anything and want to sell, let me know.
I have a Subtank and straps out of an FJ80 sitting in AUS for me, need to fill in the gaps.
I am hoping to go the factory diesel set up if possible, so if anyone ended up with diesel version parts
they swapped out for gasser parts....(pick ups, fuel hoses, line assy's dual fuel switching solenoid set up w/brackets etc) I need em.
 
Here is some pics from the 3 different manuals I have for 92/08- 97 Gen market 80 series.
Interesting that after 95/01 the EWD shows that on General market FZJ80s the job of the fuel transfer ECU is handled by Engine ECU. Toyota EPC backs this up as the Fuel control ECU part number ends at 95/01.
So the USA ECU's don't handle the fuel transfer detail and thus have the plug for the earlier ECU in the rear quarter... interesting.
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Pretty tough to read.. if anyone wants a JPG emailed let me know.. at least then you can zoom in etc.
I will try and get some proper scans made at Staples or something.
 
Despite the frown from the :princess: today, I did have some progress with my install...

1. Pulled the interior up to the front seats (time spent, but easy and I am also installing sound deadener)
2. Drained and dropped the Main Tank (ugh, I still smell of gas).
3. Removed the Filler Neck (cut)
4. Swapped the Dual Filler-Neck (really easy)
5. Installed the Transfer Assembly (drilled the four PITA holes in the floor)
6. Swapped out my fuel pump and level sensor to the new tank (easy)
7. Installed the ECU (30 seconds and one bolt)

So, will dive into it again tomorrow and post some pics, but had to share one fun pic today, which says it all!

:cheers:

Steve

cyclosteve-albums-oem-subtank-egyptian-picture17087-subtank-label-says-all.jpg
 
Despite the frown from the :princess: today, I did have some progress with my install...

1. Pulled the interior up to the front seats (time spent, but easy and I am also installing sound deadener)
2. Drained and dropped the Main Tank (ugh, I still smell of gas).
3. Removed the Filler Neck (cut)
4. Swapped the Dual Filler-Neck (really easy)
5. Installed the Transfer Assembly (drilled the four PITA holes in the floor)
6. Swapped out my fuel pump and level sensor to the new tank (easy)
7. Installed the ECU (30 seconds and one bolt)

So, will dive into it again tomorrow and post some pics, but had to share one fun pic today, which says it all!

:cheers:

Steve

cyclosteve-albums-oem-subtank-egyptian-picture17087-subtank-label-says-all.jpg

Nice!
 
Getting there, but not there yet

Another step forward today:

1. Installed filler pipe to main
2. Installed Maintank and all electrical and plumbing
3. Installed Subtank and all electrical and plumbing

So, I put a gallon into the main, and she started just fine. My plumbing and electrical to the Main are OK.

Problem #1: Then tossed two gallons into the sub. Switched the ignition and pressed the Subtank Switch, hoping to see the green light....but nothing but a click from under the truck. Turned off the ignition, tried again, and I could hear the solenoid click to start the transfer, and the pump went for 2-3 seconds, then switched off. Also, the light on the switch itself never turned on. All of the wiring was done per the instructions of El Mariachi (Jim).

So, any thoughts on where to start from those in the know? :meh:

Problem #2: Did a leak-search, and found that the filler neck is leaking from the front side between the plate with the four screws and the body...see picture below.

Again does anyone know if there is a gasket which should be there, or other sealing material used from the factory? It does not look like it has a gasket to me. The leak is big enough to drip when filling the tank, thus would also be leaking fumes.

I will be combing the OEM testing write-up to see what could be the source of #1. I am leaning towards one of the level sensors/cut-offs, the wiring/plugs or the ECU.

Any and all help appreciated. More pics of course.

:cheers:

Steve

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