- Thread starter
- #61
Yours Jim? looks like i'm behind on the times. My overhead gauge stoped reading the other day too.....
Good thread revival and motivation.
Hmmmm, that's puzzling. Do you have the access hole where you can get to the sender?
OEM Subtank Retrofit/Install Project With Pics
- Thread starter elmariachi
- Start date
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Hmmmm, that's puzzling. Do you have the access hole where you can get to the sender?
Skillet
Skillet
Slick.
I feel like a barbarian with my 44 gallon, non-OEM Long-Ranger.
Oh, wait... I am a barbarian.
I feel like a barbarian with my 44 gallon, non-OEM Long-Ranger.
Oh, wait... I am a barbarian.
Cruiser804
SILVER Star
Good job! Here's what it looks like with a tank underneath:
Yeah, after talking to you I waited to install the tank becuase I wanted to install the access cover. Hope to install the tank in the next couple weeks. I discovered while reassembling my transfer pump I am missing the long bracket on the solenoid side so I have to order that now.
I just bought a 13 gal sub-tank system from a '96 GXL Petrol model & is going in my '96 FZJ80 US spec. Currently awaiting shipment from OZ. I still need to source some odds and ends (i.e. a 95 sub-tank ECU and associated wiring along with 75% switch, sub acces cover plate), but most of what I need is there. Thanks for all of the info that you all have posted on here. If I hadn't seen this thread, I wouldn't be getting started on this project!
I sourced a seperate overhead console sub fuel gauge/ alti meter from another cruiser. I'm not sure what year it is from but it is the wrong color for me. I have a tan interior & it is grey. Would anyone like to trade? If not, how has the Oak 42 tan spray paint turned out for you?
I sourced a seperate overhead console sub fuel gauge/ alti meter from another cruiser. I'm not sure what year it is from but it is the wrong color for me. I have a tan interior & it is grey. Would anyone like to trade? If not, how has the Oak 42 tan spray paint turned out for you?
I just received my sea mail delivery of a sub tank system as well. I got lucky and he included everything but the main tank full switch and a few harnesses. 525.00 to my door, got to love the exchange rate.
I also got what was advertised as a tan overhead console and it was gray. I just hit it with the oak 42 and it matches perfectly. It's not installed so I don't know how it will wear.
I also got what was advertised as a tan overhead console and it was gray. I just hit it with the oak 42 and it matches perfectly. It's not installed so I don't know how it will wear.
So you two fellas gonna get a OEM subtanks from OZ eh! I feel like a slacker already. I have mine since 07 and I have not get the chance to install yet. Congrats to both of you
Thanks. Can't wait to install it. I'm thinking I might just get a used Aussie main tank so I don't have to mess with mod’ing the stock tank. Have any of you guys done this or is it cheaper/easier to just get my stock main tank cut/welded at a local fuel tank shop?
Also, has any one explored the idea of splitting the 13 gal tank into top and bottom halves and welding some sides to it in order to create more volume? To say, 25 gal? I have read that the aftermarket 44 gal tanks are just too big, reduce departure clearance, require much stiffer springs, result in a reduction in load capacity and adversely affect the handling when fully loaded.
Also, has any one explored the idea of splitting the 13 gal tank into top and bottom halves and welding some sides to it in order to create more volume? To say, 25 gal? I have read that the aftermarket 44 gal tanks are just too big, reduce departure clearance, require much stiffer springs, result in a reduction in load capacity and adversely affect the handling when fully loaded.
one of the main reasons I went with this idea over a larger aftermarket one is I figured that Toyota designed the EVAP system around this much volume of gas. I could be totally wrong about this but I plan on sticking with only this much fuel.
There are already guys having issues with fuel escaping the system and I would think adding more fuel to the system would only aggravate the situation.
There are already guys having issues with fuel escaping the system and I would think adding more fuel to the system would only aggravate the situation.
- Thread starter
- #69
That's a great deal. Did you get your float switch mounted yet?
Mine was gray and I painted it using paint from this company. Order Toyota Oak 42 in a spray can, pre-clean with Windex and give it a couple coats.
If you do anything like this then you will find a new way to mount the tank because I do not believe the current OEM mounting system involving straps bolted into 4 the rivnuts in the body braces would hold much more weight than just the 13 gallon OEM tank.
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Thanks elmariachi.
Not yet. My projects have gotten side lined since my daughter totaled her car. She's fine and we got a 96 camry with 92k on it. It had a stalling issue that took me a few days to locate.
I'll be starting this project truck after I get my son's 91 80 road worthy. Luckily I have a heated garage now. It's during the winter months that I have the most free time for projects like this.
You'll be hearing from me I'm sure.
When I did this I modified the stock tank. At the time, sourcing a new tank was around $700.00US shipped. I spent $85.00 at a local fuel and radiator shop to have it modified and turn around was 1 day. But if I had the $$$ i would have bought a new tank becasue of the
factor. But that is just me.
When I did this I modified the stock tank. At the time, sourcing a new tank was around $700.00US shipped. I spent $85.00 at a local fuel and radiator shop to have it modified and turn around was 1 day. But if I had the $$$ i would have bought a new tank becasue of the
when i got my new main tank a year and a bit ago from japan 4x4, it cost me about $400 approx plus shipping
I was asked and thought I'd post my costs on here for others to gauge their purchases by.
I bought a used sub tank with straps, dual filler neck, pump control relay, transfer pump assembly with bracket and all the hoses for 300.00aud.
I had it shipped sea mail. This was from Romer's recommendation in his thread which cost 250.00aud and was packaged in two boxes.
So the total was 550.00aud which at that time converted to 418.94usd and took two months to arrive.
I feel I'm pretty lucky on what I got and just happened to open ebay.com/au and see it listed.
I then found a new main fuel pump with the two hose connections for 95.00aud and 43.80 shipped via economy air. That total exchanged for 112.84
I bought a used sub tank with straps, dual filler neck, pump control relay, transfer pump assembly with bracket and all the hoses for 300.00aud.
I had it shipped sea mail. This was from Romer's recommendation in his thread which cost 250.00aud and was packaged in two boxes.
So the total was 550.00aud which at that time converted to 418.94usd and took two months to arrive.
I feel I'm pretty lucky on what I got and just happened to open ebay.com/au and see it listed.
I then found a new main fuel pump with the two hose connections for 95.00aud and 43.80 shipped via economy air. That total exchanged for 112.84
if you have them. You are pretty lucky, you got it made
- Thread starter
- #76
I was asked to list out what you might want if you can find someone in Oz who would be willing to part out a complete truck of its subtank system, so here it is:
1. Subtank and mounting straps/pads, preferably from a petrol post-'95 truck. This will have the correct vent/pickup tubes and sender unit. Mounting bolts are a bonus.
2. Fuel transfer assembly, consisting of the transfer pump, solenoid and the main mounting bracket. This really should come from a petrol truck because diesel trucks used dual solenoids that are different than petrol solenoids and a series of vent lines that are unneccesary.
3. Subtank ECU. This is the cherry on top because they are about $250 US new. But be careful to not buy one that has been sitting in the rain for 10 years.
4. Fuel transfer sub-harness. This is the harness that connects from the existing grey connector under the driver's side passenger door on US trucks over to the fuel tranfser pump and ECU. Its also available new (part #s at the beginning of this thread). This lets you use all the existing wiring in the truck.
5. Dual filler neck. I wouldn't worry with the hoses, you should really use new ones.
6. Overhead console/bracketry/bolts and if possible, the harness that connects to it, which runs through the driver's side A-pillar down to the kickpanel. Its a biatch to get out and snake back in but it can be done.
7. Dash switch. A bonus would be the harness plug connector and even better, all the wiring from that switch back down to the driver's kickpanel. This is not a must, but might be cool to see if it can be done.
Optional is the main tank. It might be cost prohibitive to ship a main tank over, I am not sure. By getting the main tank with the float switch and main tank bracket for the subtank inlet fill line saves having to buy the main pump bracket, the float switch and having to have your tank modded.
So those are the big pieces. Everything else is a matter of bolts, nuts and clamps. I would also suggest you hit a local wrecking yard and buy some Toyota wiring harnesses. I found a wrecked '97 LX450 and I bought the entire side harness, which gave me all the correct color coded wires and ends to use when running the dash swith, fuse panel and other wires in the kickpanel.
And as Rick said, Australian post Seamail is the best and cheapest shipping, but make sure your seller packs it really well because those Aussies will throw your stuff in a container with a bunch of other junk and what comes out when it gets to Los Angeles is not guaranteed.
With regard to costs, I would say Rick got a HELL of a deal and is well on his way to doing it very inexpensively. I probably have $1000-1200 in my setup because I bought a bunch of new parts. I bought $150 worth of ECUs on eBay Oz before I found one that worked. I think my tank was $300+ shipping but was off of a low mile truck. I paid $150 for the transfer assembly/pump/solenoid. I paid $150 for the dual filler neck from a member here and $100 for my console and harness, shipped. Then there's another $250 in getting the right parts for the main tank, plus all the little stuff.
1. Subtank and mounting straps/pads, preferably from a petrol post-'95 truck. This will have the correct vent/pickup tubes and sender unit. Mounting bolts are a bonus.
2. Fuel transfer assembly, consisting of the transfer pump, solenoid and the main mounting bracket. This really should come from a petrol truck because diesel trucks used dual solenoids that are different than petrol solenoids and a series of vent lines that are unneccesary.
3. Subtank ECU. This is the cherry on top because they are about $250 US new. But be careful to not buy one that has been sitting in the rain for 10 years.
4. Fuel transfer sub-harness. This is the harness that connects from the existing grey connector under the driver's side passenger door on US trucks over to the fuel tranfser pump and ECU. Its also available new (part #s at the beginning of this thread). This lets you use all the existing wiring in the truck.
5. Dual filler neck. I wouldn't worry with the hoses, you should really use new ones.
6. Overhead console/bracketry/bolts and if possible, the harness that connects to it, which runs through the driver's side A-pillar down to the kickpanel. Its a biatch to get out and snake back in but it can be done.
7. Dash switch. A bonus would be the harness plug connector and even better, all the wiring from that switch back down to the driver's kickpanel. This is not a must, but might be cool to see if it can be done.
Optional is the main tank. It might be cost prohibitive to ship a main tank over, I am not sure. By getting the main tank with the float switch and main tank bracket for the subtank inlet fill line saves having to buy the main pump bracket, the float switch and having to have your tank modded.
So those are the big pieces. Everything else is a matter of bolts, nuts and clamps. I would also suggest you hit a local wrecking yard and buy some Toyota wiring harnesses. I found a wrecked '97 LX450 and I bought the entire side harness, which gave me all the correct color coded wires and ends to use when running the dash swith, fuse panel and other wires in the kickpanel.
And as Rick said, Australian post Seamail is the best and cheapest shipping, but make sure your seller packs it really well because those Aussies will throw your stuff in a container with a bunch of other junk and what comes out when it gets to Los Angeles is not guaranteed.
With regard to costs, I would say Rick got a HELL of a deal and is well on his way to doing it very inexpensively. I probably have $1000-1200 in my setup because I bought a bunch of new parts. I bought $150 worth of ECUs on eBay Oz before I found one that worked. I think my tank was $300+ shipping but was off of a low mile truck. I paid $150 for the transfer assembly/pump/solenoid. I paid $150 for the dual filler neck from a member here and $100 for my console and harness, shipped. Then there's another $250 in getting the right parts for the main tank, plus all the little stuff.
- Thread starter
- #77
Also, I have received a few offline questions, so I want to reiterate conceptually how all this works:
- This is a completely stand-alone subsystem as it is installed from the factory. US trucks have ALMOST all of the wiring in the back, but not all. The truck does NOT have the ECU or the subharness that connects from the side truck harness over to the transfer pump and main tank float switch. The truck DOES have connections for both. The truck DOES NOT have the wiring up front to control or power the system. That must be added by you as those connections do not exist.
If you had all the parts available, here is what I would suggest as an installation sequence:
1. Disconnect the battery and using the FSM, disconnect the main fuel pump from its connection under the driver's side passenger door. Drain the main tank. Drop the main tank and have it modded to accept the non-US float switch. I have a local machine shop with a CNC program for this steel ring and they can cut it the correct size and its already drilled and tapped to receive the float switch. All you do is have a local tank shop cut a hole and weld on the ring. Email me offline if you want to buy one, they are $100 shipped. Note>> I would NOT suggest cutting the hole and just mounting the float to the tank, it'll never seal without a reinforcing bung ring to screw into.
2. Remove the existing main tank fuel pump bracket and move your pump and pickup parts over to the non-USA bracket that has the extra supply line plumbed in. Reinstall the new bracket with a new filter sock and gasket. Attach 3-4 feet of fuel line to the subtank supply port. Attach the other plumbing for the main tank and connect the subharness to the new main tank float and route it towards the driver's side rear. Reinstall the main tank.
3. Install the transfer pump/solenoid assembly and connect the fuel lines from the main tank. Plug in the appropriate subharness connections. Now route the remainder of the subharness up over the frame and to the side sill connection under the driver' side passenger door. Plug it in and secure it to your liking. Also plug in the main pump you unplugged earlier.
4. Install the dual filler neck, subtank and fill hoses. You'll have to cut and modify the main tank fill pipe as discussed in other sutbank install threads. You'll also have to cut holes in the metal floor ribs for the mounting strap rivnuts. Once the tank and hoses/filler neck is mounted, then attach the subtank sender to the existing rear harness connection. The rear system is now done.
5. Mount your overhead console and run the wiring down to the kickpanel.
6. Remove driver's side kickpanel. Using the diagrams in this thread the rear system needs power from the fusebox, ground, switching from the dash switch and an interface to the DLC diagnostic connector. Optional is the overhead console wiring. Following earlier instructions pull all the necessary subtank wires out of the 4 existing connectors in the driver's kickpanel and group them into a new connector. You now have every wire you need to complete the system and each of these wires must be fed by a new wire that you will need to run.
7. Using the earlier posted master diagram, create feeds to that new group of wires. These feeds come from fusebox power, the DLC, the dash switch and the overhead console . You have to run new wires to the dash switch (which consists of illumination and grounds from the dash rheostat and two of the pink wires from the subtank circuit.) You also have to run 12V+ from the fusebox and a ground for both the subtank system AND the overhead console. Lastly is the DLC input, which is a matter of splicing the black/blue wire from the rear harness into the black/yellow wire in the kickpanel ECU. (see pic below)
Once this is all done, you are ready to test the system and install the subtank ECU. There are docs in my original post that show you how to diagnose this entire circuit before ever plugging in the ECU. I hope this helps.
- This is a completely stand-alone subsystem as it is installed from the factory. US trucks have ALMOST all of the wiring in the back, but not all. The truck does NOT have the ECU or the subharness that connects from the side truck harness over to the transfer pump and main tank float switch. The truck DOES have connections for both. The truck DOES NOT have the wiring up front to control or power the system. That must be added by you as those connections do not exist.
If you had all the parts available, here is what I would suggest as an installation sequence:
1. Disconnect the battery and using the FSM, disconnect the main fuel pump from its connection under the driver's side passenger door. Drain the main tank. Drop the main tank and have it modded to accept the non-US float switch. I have a local machine shop with a CNC program for this steel ring and they can cut it the correct size and its already drilled and tapped to receive the float switch. All you do is have a local tank shop cut a hole and weld on the ring. Email me offline if you want to buy one, they are $100 shipped. Note>> I would NOT suggest cutting the hole and just mounting the float to the tank, it'll never seal without a reinforcing bung ring to screw into.
2. Remove the existing main tank fuel pump bracket and move your pump and pickup parts over to the non-USA bracket that has the extra supply line plumbed in. Reinstall the new bracket with a new filter sock and gasket. Attach 3-4 feet of fuel line to the subtank supply port. Attach the other plumbing for the main tank and connect the subharness to the new main tank float and route it towards the driver's side rear. Reinstall the main tank.
3. Install the transfer pump/solenoid assembly and connect the fuel lines from the main tank. Plug in the appropriate subharness connections. Now route the remainder of the subharness up over the frame and to the side sill connection under the driver' side passenger door. Plug it in and secure it to your liking. Also plug in the main pump you unplugged earlier.
4. Install the dual filler neck, subtank and fill hoses. You'll have to cut and modify the main tank fill pipe as discussed in other sutbank install threads. You'll also have to cut holes in the metal floor ribs for the mounting strap rivnuts. Once the tank and hoses/filler neck is mounted, then attach the subtank sender to the existing rear harness connection. The rear system is now done.
5. Mount your overhead console and run the wiring down to the kickpanel.
6. Remove driver's side kickpanel. Using the diagrams in this thread the rear system needs power from the fusebox, ground, switching from the dash switch and an interface to the DLC diagnostic connector. Optional is the overhead console wiring. Following earlier instructions pull all the necessary subtank wires out of the 4 existing connectors in the driver's kickpanel and group them into a new connector. You now have every wire you need to complete the system and each of these wires must be fed by a new wire that you will need to run.
7. Using the earlier posted master diagram, create feeds to that new group of wires. These feeds come from fusebox power, the DLC, the dash switch and the overhead console . You have to run new wires to the dash switch (which consists of illumination and grounds from the dash rheostat and two of the pink wires from the subtank circuit.) You also have to run 12V+ from the fusebox and a ground for both the subtank system AND the overhead console. Lastly is the DLC input, which is a matter of splicing the black/blue wire from the rear harness into the black/yellow wire in the kickpanel ECU. (see pic below)
Once this is all done, you are ready to test the system and install the subtank ECU. There are docs in my original post that show you how to diagnose this entire circuit before ever plugging in the ECU. I hope this helps.
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ELMARIACHI - Thanks! That is just what I wanted to know. I appreciate you taking the time to write all of this out.
I didn't modify the stock tank. I tee'd into the vent line coming out of the tank. This is the method George used in his write-up
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/150756-oem-sub-tank-aux-fuel-tank-setups-faq.html
For those of you who purchased the main fuel tank bracket pictured below, was the fuel pump included? Is this the same fuel pump in US 80's? i.e is it interchangeable?
