OEM Subtank Retrofit/Install Project With Pics

[ParadiseCruiser]

Well done, Jim. My hat's off to ya. In fact, I hereby pass on that old dusty early subtank mod hat to ya

Now, all we need is a pic of the driver's side door jam

Cheers, R -

 

[akraven]

MAybe one of the mods can get this added to the FAQ> Excellent work!!

 

[elmariachi]

I just completed modifying my driver's side sunvisor to accommodate the overhead console (passenger side tomorrwo night.) Pics are in the first post of this thread.

 

[reffug]

Added to the FAQ as it goes nicely with the write up Ken had already done.

Nice work as always Jim.

 

[Cruiser804]

Wow, back to the drawing board. I wished I'd of waited to install my overhead console. I made my own harness. Did you take down the head liner? There's not a heck of a lot of room to work up there.

Also, I installed an pre 95 tan console. Other thaa having to replace the 2 forward bolts and trimming the headliner is looks and fits great. The color is the same as the dash and different than the plastic piece that houses the light and sun roof switch but it looks good.

In the third pick the picture the gap appear larger than it really is.

Also, great work on the visors. I gave up searching for them and had an upholstery shop modify mine. Wished I hadn't.

 

[elmariachi]

Wow, back to the drawing board. I wished I'd of waited to install my overhead console. I made my own harness. Did you take down the head liner? There's not a heck of a lot of room to work up there.

I did remove both visors, a-pillar cover, grab handles and the mirror when I ran the harness. Then I used a fish tape and started from the opening and went across and down the pillar. I pulled a steel wire up then pulled the harness back down. It was a PITA, but only took 30 minutes.

Here is the cut to accommodate the backside of the gauge housing. You'll notice I removed half of the headliner material where the mirror mounts. That was a mistake because the mirror vibrated at road speed. So I went back in and glued that piece back in. Also note the OEM wiring harness connection

I'll post more pics in the daylight but I am very happy with the results. Again, this is a grey console that I painted with Oak 42 spray:

 

[JPHockerAZ]

Here is a picture pulled from OZ Ebay of a main tank with the fuel level switch for more reference.

 

[JPHockerAZ]

In wiring the subtank switch follow the following steps.
Pin 1 Dimmer (White Green Tracer)
Pin 2 12v switched power (Solid Green)
Pin 3 ECU Transfer signal (Pink/Yellow, or Pink/Blue)
Pin 4 Ground
Pin 5 Empty
Pin 6 Power (I used the cigarette lighter grey wire)
Pin 7 Has a pin on switch but not used
Pin 8 Empty
Pin 9 ECU switching wire (Pink)
Pin 10 Empty

Notice you use 6 wires and not 7 even though the switch has 7 pins. I only ran the two ECU wires over from the kickpanel. Everthing else I got from the cigarette lighter stuffs.

 

[JPHockerAZ]

For those with subtank pulled from diesels. You will have 2 tubes coming from your tank. In the past most people just plug the smaller one. But for the correct OEM installation you can add the correct pickup tube for this installation and not have to plug a line. El Mariachi may add the part # to post 1 shortly, it is 77017-60300.

 

[elmariachi]

El Mariachi may add the part # to post 1 shortly, it is 77017-60300.

Its been added to the original parts list. Thanks Joel.

 

[Japan4X4]

And if you don't want a used tank contact me One sitting in shipping right now, big box but not heavy.

 

[Cruiser804]

For those with subtank pulled from diesels. You will have 2 tubes coming from your tank. In the past most people just plug the smaller one. But for the correct OEM installation you can add the correct pickup tube for this installation and not have to plug a line. El Mariachi may add the part # to post 1 shortly, it is 77017-60300.

Dave I'd need to add this to my quote. I'll send you an email

Jon

 

[sethro]

I started accumulating parts to do this exact upgrade...





Then I just decided to install a 4 cyl cummins turbo diesel instead of the sub tank.







I'm sure we can go the same distance between fill-ups.








Nice write up, I can totally appreciate all the time you put into the swap. Good job!

I shall call you "el mariachi del subtank"

 

[SunTzuMD]

Hmm, it seems like my move to Okinawa Japan is a perfect time to start collecting this stuff! Would the Okinawa junk yards be a good place to source some of these parts?

 

[Japan4X4]

Hmm, it seems like my move to Okinawa Japan is a perfect time to start collecting this stuff! Would the Okinawa junk yards be a good place to source some of these parts?

Sub tanks were never offered in Japan.

There are no junk yards in Japan as you envision, crush, melt and retool is the order of the day here.

 

[Cruiser804]

I thought I would add this. Really the idea came from Jim but the irrational need for OEM stuff is my personal issue.

Anyway, after talking Jim about my install, still in progress, I decided I wanted to add the OEM subtank access cover.

The location is already stamped in the rear floor. See picture one (Beno's pic). I took a 3 1/2 hole saw to cut the large opening and drilled two holes for the plastic nut certs and then squared them with rectangular file.

Here are the part numbers required.

2 Screws, subtank cover 93530-25012 2 Inserts 90189-05016 1 Inspection plate 58325-90K00 1 Packing 58339-90K00
1.) floor stamping
2.) holes drilled, squared, primed and painter
3.) with plastic nutcerts installed
4.) Cover with packaging installed
5.) Finished product

 

[Cruiser804]

final two pictures.

 

[JPHockerAZ]

Nice work!

 

[elmariachi]

Good job! Here's what it looks like with a tank underneath:

 

[JPHockerAZ]

Yours Jim? looks like i'm behind on the times. My overhead gauge stoped reading the other day too.....

Good thread revival and motivation.