OZCAL said:
Hey! Where can we get that instruction sticker? That would be a cool factory OEM touch!
Thanks,
oem oz sub tanks
- Thread starter loquito
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Hey! Where can we get that instruction sticker? That would be a cool factory OEM touch!
Thanks,
You can see the text and the format. You could duplicate it in word and then print it off on a sticker. You then place the sticker on the door and cover it with that clear plastic laminate stuff.
I'll show you after I "forge" one.......
D-
I'll show you after I "forge" one.......
D-
- Thread starter
- #83
David
If you do go to the dealer to check on the preformed hoses, would you be willing to ask about the two (?) brackets that apear to be mounting your lower filler neck?
The electrical harness going to the main tank has a Yellow with red stripe wire.
What does this wire do?
The sub tank wire harness has a yellow with red stripe wire. Does this wire splice in to the yellow/red wire coming from the main tank?
Steven
If you do go to the dealer to check on the preformed hoses, would you be willing to ask about the two (?) brackets that apear to be mounting your lower filler neck?
The electrical harness going to the main tank has a Yellow with red stripe wire.
What does this wire do?
The sub tank wire harness has a yellow with red stripe wire. Does this wire splice in to the yellow/red wire coming from the main tank?
Steven
- Thread starter
- #84
[Wiring colours (on subtank connector):
Brown Ground
Red/Yellow Empty Signal (Switches to Ground when empty)
Yellow/Blue Sender Signal (Variable resistor, relative to Ground)]
the other two in sub tank connector
Yellow/red
yellow /green
What do these two do.
Do all four wires from the subtank connector get carried forward in the homebuilt harness terminating under the dash? Along with the 2(?) wires coming from the pump/solenoid?
Brown Ground
Red/Yellow Empty Signal (Switches to Ground when empty)
Yellow/Blue Sender Signal (Variable resistor, relative to Ground)]
the other two in sub tank connector
Yellow/red
yellow /green
What do these two do.
Do all four wires from the subtank connector get carried forward in the homebuilt harness terminating under the dash? Along with the 2(?) wires coming from the pump/solenoid?
loquito said:
Gladly; you are referring to the bracket that appears to be welded to the body, right? I think the other one, the double-eyelet lopsided Mickey Mouse ears kind of thing is part of the unit itself, but I will try to confirm. Dan should know as it looks to be featured (only shinier!) in his picture above.
Sorry I can't help you with the wires - I'd be guessing at best.
David
- Thread starter
- #86
OZCAL said:
Thanks David, I will be interested to hear what you will learn.
Clownmidget
I read and printed that page so I could compare it to my parts when I get them , Thanks
it doesn't cover any wiring though, and my 91 electrical manual is not helping either.
Steven
The bracket with the EYE in it that you see in my photo is attached to the neck. The opposite side on the body is going to be a part of the AUS inner wheelhouse assembly and as a result "not serviced". That front attachment is not critical but the neck is more secure with something there. I will photograph the bracket I made. It is attached to the seat belt anchor. I do not have my third row belts in so I used the anchor bolt and ran it in the captive nut from the outside. Those bolts are 11mm and are a bit tough to come up with.
loquito said:
I struck out today - the parts dep't. gent at the local dealer pulled up the 80 on his computer, and all we could find is the filler neck that is NOT in the photos above. The part in his exploded view appeared to be the one in George's writeup, with the 90 degree turn outlets followed by straight hoses.
He didn't quite believe me when I said the part displayed is not what is in my car. Rather than pulling off my splash shield there in the Toyota parking lot, I will go back with a better approach:
Dan, do you have a part number for the filler neck our trucks share? I suspect if I give him that part number, he will be able to pull it up in his computer and we can work from there...
David
Not to start wading in Dan's end of the pool, but I'd expect that the graphics might not change in the parts book just the applicable year range associated with the part numbers. So if you look up Item number 10 it will have a couple sets of year ranges with different part numbers for those ranges.
Rick's observation is accurate. In some cases the illustration does not change, just the text. Application dates may be a clue. Either that or there are two illustrations and the fellow missed the second one.
The original single neck for N.A. is 77201-60350 and fits 91-97 all models. I suspect that would be the same for AUS 91-97 petrol engines and single tanks.
D-
The original single neck for N.A. is 77201-60350 and fits 91-97 all models. I suspect that would be the same for AUS 91-97 petrol engines and single tanks.
D-
As usual, I’m always late to the party, but there are TOO many interesting facts in this thread...
Some of my thoughts...
>> Im glad to help!
David: Thanks for your contribution to this thread. It has been very useful to all of us subtank users!
>> Hey! Where can we get that instruction sticker? That would be a cool factory OEM touch!
Derek: I agree, way cool. BUT, will this thing staring in the face of the Calif smog certification guy open a can of worms? I’d rather not alert them that I’ve messed with the fuel tanks...
>> Our researcher has determined that the output range of the sub sender and the main tank sender is about the same. IE the electrical value transmitted by the sub tank sender when the sub tank is 1/2 full is the same as the main tank when it is 1/2 full and so on.
Dan: Actually, Christo did one of the earliest installs of a switch to toggle the fuel level senders to a single gauge (that I am aware of), and determined that they are, in fact, the same.
>> Has anyone perfected the relay/switch that will toggle between the main and sub tank when the pump is activated so that both tanks can show on the fuel guage.
Steven: Yep, I used a toggle switch (a simple SPDT will work) so the single US spec fuel gauge can be used to read the level in either tank. This is a separate switch from the subtank activiation switch, and operates independently from the latter, so you can look at the subtank fuel level at any time. It wouldn’t make much sense (to me, anyway) to have it tied to the subtank pump activation switch, even if you could do it (might be difficult, if you could do it at all). See pix below...
>> It [the page] doesn't cover any wiring though.
Steven: I’ve got all of the wiring info available; when you need it let me know...
>> Yep, still make the 'ecu' units for those that need them.
George: Thanks for adding your comments as well. For other inquiring minds, would you please elaborate on the design changes you made to your circuit, and what the “new” circuit does that the old one does not?
Also, a theoretical question, what would happen if the operator pressed the [momentary contact] subtank switch, and held it down for, say, 15-20 seconds (or longer) after the pump started operating? Would your subtank “ecu” just ignore it, and remain latched, or could it be damaged? TIA
Attached is an older pix of my dash. The fuel sender selector switch is the rocker to the left of the rear heater switch. It has a pair of LEDs, only one of which is illuminated at a time - indicating which tank the fuel gauge is looking at. BTW, the LEDs only light up when the headlights are on, and are tied to the dimmer that controls the rest of the dash lights. Does double duty as a daytime “headlights are on” pilot light as well! (All I need is to do is add icons.)
Cheers all !
R -
Some of my thoughts...
>> Im glad to help!
David: Thanks for your contribution to this thread. It has been very useful to all of us subtank users!
>> Hey! Where can we get that instruction sticker? That would be a cool factory OEM touch!
Derek: I agree, way cool. BUT, will this thing staring in the face of the Calif smog certification guy open a can of worms? I’d rather not alert them that I’ve messed with the fuel tanks...
>> Our researcher has determined that the output range of the sub sender and the main tank sender is about the same. IE the electrical value transmitted by the sub tank sender when the sub tank is 1/2 full is the same as the main tank when it is 1/2 full and so on.
Dan: Actually, Christo did one of the earliest installs of a switch to toggle the fuel level senders to a single gauge (that I am aware of), and determined that they are, in fact, the same.
>> Has anyone perfected the relay/switch that will toggle between the main and sub tank when the pump is activated so that both tanks can show on the fuel guage.
Steven: Yep, I used a toggle switch (a simple SPDT will work) so the single US spec fuel gauge can be used to read the level in either tank. This is a separate switch from the subtank activiation switch, and operates independently from the latter, so you can look at the subtank fuel level at any time. It wouldn’t make much sense (to me, anyway) to have it tied to the subtank pump activation switch, even if you could do it (might be difficult, if you could do it at all). See pix below...
>> It [the page] doesn't cover any wiring though.
Steven: I’ve got all of the wiring info available; when you need it let me know...
>> Yep, still make the 'ecu' units for those that need them.
George: Thanks for adding your comments as well. For other inquiring minds, would you please elaborate on the design changes you made to your circuit, and what the “new” circuit does that the old one does not?
Also, a theoretical question, what would happen if the operator pressed the [momentary contact] subtank switch, and held it down for, say, 15-20 seconds (or longer) after the pump started operating? Would your subtank “ecu” just ignore it, and remain latched, or could it be damaged? TIA
Attached is an older pix of my dash. The fuel sender selector switch is the rocker to the left of the rear heater switch. It has a pair of LEDs, only one of which is illuminated at a time - indicating which tank the fuel gauge is looking at. BTW, the LEDs only light up when the headlights are on, and are tied to the dimmer that controls the rest of the dash lights. Does double duty as a daytime “headlights are on” pilot light as well! (All I need is to do is add icons.)
Cheers all !
R -
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Compared to the original circuit I posted on my site ages ago, the newer one has an added diode in series with the fuel empty signal from the subtank. This ensures that the user can turn off the transfer at any time by pressing the subtank a 2nd time (when the transfer is in progress). Without the diode the switch doesn't always turn off the transfer.
No damage will occur if you hold the switch down for a long time.
Thanks George.
My circuit is home made, based on your original schematic. I've often stopped a transfer in progress by pressing the subtank switch a second time, and it has always worked as expected. Now I'll know why it fails, if it ever does
Cheers, R -
My circuit is home made, based on your original schematic. I've often stopped a transfer in progress by pressing the subtank switch a second time, and it has always worked as expected. Now I'll know why it fails, if it ever does
Cheers, R -
Here is a photo of the completed neck/hose installation using two OEM fuel-tank-end hoses and the "crook" of the original neck pictured previously. Note also the bracket fabbed to go between the seat belt anchor nut and the front neck bracket.
D-
D-
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I'm just going to print a picture of my neck, or Dan's as it is still recognizable, and take it in to the parts dep't.
Probably won't be until tomorrow (Sunday here in Queensland) as the truck just went to the market.
David
PS - I'll ask about the sticker, just for the fun of it, but I agree with Paradise Cruiser that it would be a red flag for emissions...
Probably won't be until tomorrow (Sunday here in Queensland) as the truck just went to the market.
David
PS - I'll ask about the sticker, just for the fun of it, but I agree with Paradise Cruiser that it would be a red flag for emissions...
Unfortunately I'm not installing or will be installing a tank anytime soon , but I thought that I'd add a comment. Dan fabbed up that additional support bracket and bolted it to the rear seat belt captive nut. For those who still have that belt installed you might replace the existing bolt with one that is long enough to act as a stud for that bracket underneath. You then could use a nut and washer to hold that bracket in place. Just be sure to use a hardened bolt for that purpose.
- Thread starter
- #97
ParadiseCruiser said:
Hey thanks, I have been going over the elecrical but definently will need help.
I ordered my tank this morning, so you have taken a great weight off of my shoulders concerning electrical hookups.
I will be calling
Steven
landtank said:
The only difficult part of that is the fact that Toyota uses 11 x 1.25mm fasteners for seat belts and those are difficult to find. My bolt, without the belt attached, would have been long enough to put a nut on the bottom of it if I could have found one. I did not look real hard but still 11mm is odd stuff.
D.
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I have a very good source for automotive size bolts. I'll check with them on Monday if I think of it, just for some added info for the thread.
Dan, not to revive this thread needlessly but I had a thought about the filler hose issue. Could you check the 100-series filler hose that goes from the steel filler tube to the tank? IIRC, it is the same diameter and is flexible - could be bent to the correct angle without kinking. Just a thought but figured at least you could check one out in hand.
