oem oz sub tanks

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Hmm, OK, more confusion to this whole smog thing...

Anyway, I asked a local smog shop, which is a pretty good shop, about this issue. They are a test and repair shop, not test-only, so they have some knowledge of what it takes to get a vehicle to pass smog. The tech told me that they don't fail them anymore for having no restrictor since leaded fuel is no longer available. However, I'm still not sure I want to bet the bank on that one, given where I live. Seems open to interpretation. He did say that you can buy these very cheap press-in retrictors from the local auto parts stores that would also work, at least for inspections...

But, he did say that, depending on the evaporative system for the dual tanks, it may not match the evaporative system diagram on the sticker in the engine bay, and that is of more concern. However, the only sticker I have is the vacuum hose routing diagram. Any idea where Toyota puts the other one?

Thanks,
 
dclee said:
However, the only sticker I have is the vacuum hose routing diagram. Any idea where Toyota puts the other one?

Thanks,


There isn't one to find...:D


Besides, it's OEM and it looks it. Just don't be all proud about it when Inspector Gadget is looking at what he has no idea what he is looking at....:D
 
Has anyone perfected the relay/switch that will toggle between the main and sub tank when the pump is activated so that both tanks can show on the fuel guage. Will you share?
How are you coming along Dan?
 
If you noticed earlier in the thread that I mentioned George's ECU. He made up a sweet ECU that is a toggling circuit and used the factory momentary push button Fuel Transfer switch.

http://george4wd.taskled.com/
 
I too will be fitting George's latching circuit controller. The original installations have a fuel gauge in the overhead for the aux tank.

Our researcher has determined that the output range of the sub sender and the main tank sender is about the same. IE the electrical value transmitted by the sub tank sender when the sub tank is 1/2 full is the same as the main tank when it is 1/2 full and so on. This means that you can intercept the signal to the dash gauge and install a switch to toggle between the two senders, using both to feed the main gauge. This switch would be independant from the transfer circuit.

Of course all of this becomes moot if you don't have the sender...:mad:

I have made an end-run and will have a new OEM sender in a few weeks however...;) In the mean time the rest of the bits are in a pile taunting me...:flipoff2:
 
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Join Date: Aug 2003
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#64 If you noticed earlier in the thread that I mentioned George's ECU. He made up a sweet ECU that is a toggling circuit and used the factory momentary push button Fuel Transfer switch.

http://george4wd.taskled.com/

__________________
'96 Moonglow Pearl - lifted/locked/aired/wired

I have read Georges write up lots of times, at the end he states he is going to try and set something up so that he can read both tanks on his fuel guage :D

I was also going to run Georges ECU :D

QUOTE=cruiserdan]I too will be fitting George's latching circuit controller. The original installations have a fuel gauge in the overhead for the aux tank.

Our researcher has determined that the output range of the sub sender and the main tank sender is about the same. IE the electrical value transmitted by the sub tank sender when the sub tank is 1/2 full is the same as the main tank when it is 1/2 full and so on. This means that you can intercept the signal to the dash gauge and install a switch to toggle between the two senders, using both to feed the main gauge. This switch would be independant from the transfer circuit.

Of course all of this becomes moot if you don't have the sender...:mad:

I have made an end-run and will have a new OEM sender in a few weeks however...;) In the mean time the rest of the bits are in a pile taunting me...:flipoff2:[/QUOTE]

Dan is there a way that the oem sub tank switch can also act as the toggle switch between the two senders. Say when you push the transfer switch it automaticaly switchs the fuel guage to the sub tank? Then goes back to the main tank on the fuel guage when your done transfering fuel.

What do you mean by End Run. another parts source?
 
I would not want the gauge switched by the latching circuit. I want to be able to look at fuel levels without activating the pump.

An end run is, well, an end run.........;)

I can't divulge all my tricks now, can I?
 
Hey George
I am happy to see you are here, I hope you had a Good New Years. :flipoff2:
Are you still selling your ( Brain box's ) for the tanks?

Ozcal,
your offer to help get parts is way cool. I need to keep my stuff simple, but I wonder if some one got their hands on the ECM (?) and the overhead guage package, if it could work in US trucks? Used parts in the states are not that expensive. And both of those parts are small.

Goerge's write up has been great and I have read it numerous times :D

If I read correctly the wiring for the sub tank is already in our trucks?

Can some one elaborate on this for me.

there are connectors up in the dash for the fuel switch? A connector back somewhere on the frame for plugging in the sub tank? Connectors in the kick panel?

I looked through the Electric manual but could not find the assotiated wiring. Will some one explain the basic wiring of the tank only using George's ECM (not worried about reading level in sub tank at tHis time), maybe point me twards the connectors on the vehicle.

And Mot I am with you when you mention possibly driving of the road, more years than not since I have lived in Alaska there has been an earthquake, or avalanche's that have stranded folks. Extra gas= warm

I want to thank everybody for sharing so freely.

Steve-O, how long till the ship docks?

Steven
 
Yeah, I'm still around, but don't check in too often. Saw this thread so figured I'd comment.

Yep, stiill make the 'ecu' units for those that need them. I just did a small pcb run and ran a few more (I have about 6 built). I only make them every few months - not a large demand.

Our US 80's don't have the full wiring harness for the aux tank. They do have the connector right at the rear - I just cut it off to mate it with the connector on the harness that came with my subtank. I gave up trying to figure out what my 80 did or didn't have in terms of the wiring harness. There's certainly no factory wiring/connector for the subtank switch in the dash...

In pre-95 (or thereabouts) the subtank ecu was a separate beast. In 95+ the subtank ecu was integrated with the main ECU. This is the case for the 80's that came with the factory subtank standard.

In my case, given I had no idea how much of the factory wiring was of any use - it seemed a lot easier (and easier to document in case of later repair) to just run my own wiring from scratch. Bought some automotive grade wire and some convoluted tubing and did as neat a job as I could. The system has worked flawlessly in the nearly 4 years I've had it installed.

I never bothered to put a switch in to toggle the main fuel gauge between the main & subtank. Since the sub is only about 1/2 the capacity of the main, I just run the main down to about 1/4 and then transfer the lot in one go. My wife generally drives the 80 and it's never been an issue for her to use the system & fill the sub which she DOES use.

george.
 
george_tlc said:
Yeah, I'm still around, but don't check in too often. Saw this thread so figured I'd comment.

Yep, stiill make the 'ecu' units for those that need them. I just did a small pcb run and ran a few more (I have about 6 built). I only make them every few months - not a large demand.


I never bothered to put a switch in to toggle the main fuel gauge between the main & subtank. Since the sub is only about 1/2 the capacity of the main, I just run the main down to about 1/4 and then transfer the lot in one go. My wife generally drives the 80 and it's never been an issue for her to use the system & fill the sub which she DOES use.

george.
Thanks George
I can parrot your Never Bothered comment, thats how I planned to set it up after I thought about it for a minute, and it is my wifes truck.
I am looking forward to getting a tank and calling you for parts.
Steven
 
:D :D :D :D :D
modifiedneck.webp
80 shots 031.webp
80 shots 032.webp
 
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loquito said:
Ozcal,
your offer to help get parts is way cool.

---I'm glad to help!

And Mot I am with you when you mention possibly driving of the road, more years than not since I have lived in Alaska there has been an earthquake, or avalanche's that have stranded folks. Extra gas= warm

---Where I am now (Queensland), extra gas = cool!

David
 
David,

Inquiring minds want to know something....:D

The dual neck has two mounting tabs present and the North American vehicles have just the lowermost rear hole present in the body. Just exactly what sort of attaching point is present for the uppermost front tab? It would be difficult to see from below but if one were to remove the three screws that fix the upper splash shield (such as in the photo I posted above) it should be easy to see.

Thanks,

D-
 
Here you go Dan-

If we are looking at the same bracket, it looks like it was attached to the body prior to the underbody spray being applied. Looks like a weld, to my untrained eye.

I took a few pictures of the entire assembly which I will gladly post if you want to see them.

By the way I did hit the face plate with some WD40 and a rag, to clean off 188,000 kilometers of corrosion, and it does have the same brand name as yours. Still can't read that script, but it is the same in any case. Can you tell us what that says?

David
filler.webp
filler2.webp
filler3.webp
 
David,

Those photos are amazing..........

Your 80 has what we understand to be a 105 series neck...!

Your lower outlet assembly appears to be EXACTLY the same as the one I ended up with. It DOES NOT look at all like what I have seen represented as 80 series necks.

Your photo leads me to believe that later 80's may use a neck similar to the 105 OR JUST MAYBE we are getting true 80 necks of a later vintage.

I would love to know that the part numbers are for the hoses from the neck to the tanks.......;)

:D
 
Dan, I had seriously wondered about this as well as I obtained my setup from an OZ friend that said it was all a factory complete "take off" from an OZ-spec 80 series (petrol). He wasn't the most mechanically inclined chap and it was from a salvage yard so I had just assumed they had given him a complete setup but the neck was from a 105 series. I conjured up all sorts of explanations like it was too much trouble to remove the filler neck or it had been re-used somehow in an LPG conversion, etc. But now I think you're onto something - the later OZ-spec petrol 80s have this same filler neck. I know that there are the two pre-bent hoses that go from that filler neck to the aux tank and main tank but never had much luck in my half-hearted attempt to track down the part numbers since sourcing the filler hose and getting a short piece of SS tube bent was a lot easier.
 
Mike,

I fitted my neck using an OEM tank hose for the neck-to-front tank pipe and I sectioned the original neck to get the 'bend" out of it and I then utilized another OEM tank hose to bridge the gap. I cut the hose thru the "crook" and used the long side to go between the subtank and the elbow and the short end finished up on the neck side.

Based on David's photos I suspect that a moulded hose exists to make the trip from the subtank to the "later" neck.

D-
 
cruiserdan said:
David,

Those photos are amazing..........

Your 80 has what we understand to be a 105 series neck...!

Your lower outlet assembly appears to be EXACTLY the same as the one I ended up with. It DOES NOT look at all like what I have seen represented as 80 series necks.

Your photo leads me to believe that later 80's may use a neck similar to the 105 OR JUST MAYBE we are getting true 80 necks of a later vintage.

I would love to know that the part numbers are for the hoses from the neck to the tanks.......;)

:D



Yes - I looked at George's write up and that is definitely a different neck than the one on my 80. I'll swing by the local Toyota dealer and ask the parts dep't. if they can find part nos. for those hoses.

Additional pics of mine follow. Glad I jumped in to this - I found my hidden wallet key! (See last picture)

:doh:

David
filler5.webp
filler7.webp
key.webp
 
OZCAL said:
Glad I jumped in to this - I found my hidden wallet key! (See last picture)



Ah ha!

It does pay to be a nice guy! :D
 

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