OEM Charcoal Canister Replacement (3 Viewers)

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United Arab but ebay has them out of Japan for under $250...for the 105 (77704-60290)

91-92: 77740-60200
93-94: 77740-60310
95-97: 77740-60350
I have a 77704-60290 it's a new 105 canister and doesn't work well.

I put my vc120 back in no problem and ordered an AC Delco. The real 80 series canister is nla and has been for some time.

Post#19 in this thread is where I received the canister from Japan. I loaned it to a Land cruiser parts and supply company that in no longer in Business to make a custom bracket to bring to market, this didn't happen but I got my canister back.

Tank over pressure and not venting while filling was an issue.

I ordered the acdelco from summit to ensure no counterfeit and many years of trouble free service, I like this AC Delco much better than the vc120 because the bottom is sealed and won't deform over time and fall off.

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Just curious, what do you mean the 105 canister didn't work well?

Also, how much modifying did the GM canister require?
It works but the flow rate on it is low causing excess pressure when filling at the pump and driving in the heat.

The 105 canister does not work well compared to the vc120 and I'll be installing this AC Delco soon

The vc120 doesn't have a 3rd drain and installs same as stock, but the vent at the bottom fails in the heat of the engine bay causing a sweet fuel smell in the heat when Wheeling, probably not a huge deal but definitely not a comfortable smell.

The new AC Delco is a sealed unit on the bottom, installs same as stock, easy but with it sealed in the bottom it has a dedicated 3rd vent on the top, you can leave it capped to atmosphere or run it down to the factory frame drain/vent.

The 105 canister with the molded bracket is the hardest to install and the hose sizes are not same as factory on the 80. However, it's Mr t so the quality is there but I'm not happy with it.

I want to install and forget about it, the 105 canister at a normal slowish gas pump isn't an issue but at Costco it doesn't vent fast enough because the pumps are so fast.
 
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77740-60080
This should fit as well, if you are looking for OEM

IMG_3066.png
 
I just rebuilt mine a few years ago after really disliking the Delco, GM or whatever. Followed this guide. Pretty easy and it all still looks factory which is a plus in my mind.

 
I ordered the acdelco from summit to ensure no counterfeit and many years of trouble free service, I like this AC Delco much better than the vc120 because the bottom is sealed and won't deform over time and fall off.

View attachment 3788369

View attachment 3788370
FYI for anyone else going this route: I ordered mine from Amazon and saved like $30 over Summit. I sent pictures to ACDelco, and they confirmed it was a legit part, and that they are running their own store on Amazon.
 
This job is up next, now that I have the underside power washed. The Delco unit is marked Air, Purge, and Tank. Am I correct in assuming that "Tank" goes to the line to the rear, "Air" goes to the one that terminates on the frame, and "Purge" goes to the valve on the engine? If any of that doesn't make sense, the previous owner relocated the canister under the driver side floor.
 
This job is up next, now that I have the underside power washed. The Delco unit is marked Air, Purge, and Tank. Am I correct in assuming that "Tank" goes to the line to the rear, "Air" goes to the one that terminates on the frame, and "Purge" goes to the valve on the engine? If any of that doesn't make sense, the previous owner relocated the canister under the driver side floor.
Don't recall nomenclature but top port connects to the VSV over under the manifold, bottom port below it to the tank inlet, port on side (Air) vents down into fender opening (or just leave it open).

IMG_3056.jpg
 
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The only problem with using J B weld, is getting the canister apart again. Once you grind, or machine the roll seam lip off of the canister, the top is kind of a press fit into the body, so I'm not even sure you need to J B weld it in place for it to hold.

The nice thing about having the top removable. When the time comes to replace the charcoal inside the canister it'll be a whole lot easier to change if the top isn't glued in place. In my case when i did this job i just made a home made clamp to hold the cap in place, but I'm sure a big hose clamp would work too.
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That is one hell of a clamp, nice welding work. Not trying to rain on your parade, but for us non-welder types, Red RTV does the trick and is re-openable....
 
That is one hell of a clamp, nice welding work. Not trying to rain on your parade, but for us non-welder types, Red RTV does the trick and is re-openable....
I am a welder type and I still used RTV (grey) because I'm way too lazy for that. It's a hell of a nice looking clamp though! If everything is working properly, it really doesn't need much to hold it together and keep it sealed. If memory serves, there's about a half inch of slip fit, that's plenty for the RTV to keep it sealed.
 

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