OEM canister still could be had, unfortunately for $480 

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What? Where?OEM canister still could be had, unfortunately for $480![]()
United Arab but ebay has them out of Japan for under $250...for the 105 (77704-60290)What? Where?
I have a 77704-60290 it's a new 105 canister and doesn't work well.United Arab but ebay has them out of Japan for under $250...for the 105 (77704-60290)
91-92: 77740-60200
93-94: 77740-60310
95-97: 77740-60350
Just curious, what do you mean the 105 canister didn't work well?I have a 77704-60290 it's a new 105 canister and doesn't work well.
It works but the flow rate on it is low causing excess pressure when filling at the pump and driving in the heat.Just curious, what do you mean the 105 canister didn't work well?
Also, how much modifying did the GM canister require?
Looks to be for a 3F engine in a FJ75. Do we know how the flow rate compares to the 77704-60290 for the FZJ105 that some have said is too low?77740-60080
This should fit as well, if you are looking for OEM
FYI for anyone else going this route: I ordered mine from Amazon and saved like $30 over Summit. I sent pictures to ACDelco, and they confirmed it was a legit part, and that they are running their own store on Amazon.I ordered the acdelco from summit to ensure no counterfeit and many years of trouble free service, I like this AC Delco much better than the vc120 because the bottom is sealed and won't deform over time and fall off.
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Don't recall nomenclature but top port connects to the VSV over under the manifold, bottom port below it to the tank inlet, port on side (Air) vents down into fender opening (or just leave it open).This job is up next, now that I have the underside power washed. The Delco unit is marked Air, Purge, and Tank. Am I correct in assuming that "Tank" goes to the line to the rear, "Air" goes to the one that terminates on the frame, and "Purge" goes to the valve on the engine? If any of that doesn't make sense, the previous owner relocated the canister under the driver side floor.
That is one hell of a clamp, nice welding work. Not trying to rain on your parade, but for us non-welder types, Red RTV does the trick and is re-openable....The only problem with using J B weld, is getting the canister apart again. Once you grind, or machine the roll seam lip off of the canister, the top is kind of a press fit into the body, so I'm not even sure you need to J B weld it in place for it to hold.
The nice thing about having the top removable. When the time comes to replace the charcoal inside the canister it'll be a whole lot easier to change if the top isn't glued in place. In my case when i did this job i just made a home made clamp to hold the cap in place, but I'm sure a big hose clamp would work too.
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Using Red RTV around gasoline is not recommended due to its inability to withstand the high temperatures and the potential for degradation. It is advised to use Optimum Grey RTV, which is specifically designed to resist gasoline and is suitable for engine components with gas and oil mixtures. This RTV can handle temperatures up to 700°F and is engineered to maintain its bond under the demands of high-temperature application.That is one hell of a clamp, nice welding work. Not trying to rain on your parade, but for us non-welder types, Red RTV does the trick and is re-openable....
I am a welder type and I still used RTV (grey) because I'm way too lazy for that. It's a hell of a nice looking clamp though! If everything is working properly, it really doesn't need much to hold it together and keep it sealed. If memory serves, there's about a half inch of slip fit, that's plenty for the RTV to keep it sealed.That is one hell of a clamp, nice welding work. Not trying to rain on your parade, but for us non-welder types, Red RTV does the trick and is re-openable....