O R I O N (9 Viewers)

[blue bomber 88]

Hello , all my name is Matthew from AA
This how I have checked the gear end float. As Georg has stated wet sanding the stepped washers is sometimes necessary to achieve the correct clearance.



It is much easier to establish your clearance by assembling the out put shaft with the drum etc and tightening the nut, on the table.Thus preventing a situation that has occurred in the previous post.

 

[Fast Eddy]

It is much easier to establish your clearance by assembling the out put shaft with the drum etc and tightening the nut, on the table.Thus preventing a situation that has occurred in the previous post.

It was delivered to me assembled, but without the drum and with no instructions to measure the clearance after installing the drum.

I don't see instructions to do this in Poser's thread above either. It shows him getting all the way to setting the bearing pre-load with no drum installed.

So cranking down on the drum in turn tightened up all the preset clearances as set at assembly time? Kind of makes sense. I somehow don't feel better though.

I was talking to a dude about it today and something he said reminded me that I heard it screech a couple of times driving it around. I thought "uh-oh" each time, but it was very short and easy to forget.

 

[orangefj45]

The rear nut needs to be tightened to the proper torque specs, as specified very clearly in the AA instructions. It's also crutial that you use an oem washer between the nut and brake drum. "standard" washers will distort. I see it all the time.

Tightening the output nut with an impact gun to "good-n-tight" will be too tight and cause the endplay between the main shaft and low speed gear to tighten up. But it does not affect the endplay on the high speed gear.

Hth

Georg @ valley hybrids

 

[Fast Eddy]

The rear nut needs to be tightened to the proper torque specs, as specified very clearly in the AA instructions. It's also crutial that you use an oem washer between the nut and brake drum. "standard" washers will distort. I see it all the time.

Tightening the output nut with an impact gun to "good-n-tight" will be too tight and cause the endplay between the main shaft and low speed gear to tighten up. But it does not affect the endplay on the high speed gear.

I definitely set the torque on that nut to spec. It was a bitch to get it that tight with my little torque wrench.

I am going to take the drum off tomorrow morning and reverify what washer is in there. If it's the wrong washer the clearance should go right back to spec, I would guess.

 

[blue bomber 88]

The washer is behind the bearing. I hate to the bearer of bad news but, that unit needs to come out of the cruiser. More than likely you will need a new low speed gear and output shaft. Installing your drum and brake assembly will not affect your end play if it has been assembled correctly to begin with.

 

[Fast Eddy]

The washer is behind the bearing.

We're talking about the thick washer just inside the brake drum, not the thrust washer.

I hate to the bearer of bad news but, that unit needs to come out of the cruiser. More than likely you will need a new low speed gear and output shaft.

You don't think all those burrs on the low-speed gear will help keep it from popping out of low?

I was pretty well prepared for that already. Thanks for your help.

 

[blue bomber 88]

Yes, I do believe that the friction welding will keep the unit on gear.

The part you are describing is a spacer. If you look at the first image I had posted you will understand it better.



I'm sorry that this has happened, but the Orion is worth the investment.

 

[orangefj45]

I definitely set the torque on that nut to spec. It was a bitch to get it that tight with my little torque wrench.

I am going to take the drum off tomorrow morning and reverify what washer is in there. If it's the wrong washer the clearance should go right back to spec, I would guess.

no. the preload on the drum will NOT affect the high speed gear freeplay as mentioned in my previous post. but it will affect the freeplay on the low gear.

either way, that t-case needs to come out and apart to avoid any more damage. i agree with matthew; the main shaft is probably damaged as is the high speed gear due to galling at the thrust surfaces.
so you'll be needing both of those along with some new stake nuts and seals at the very leasy.

less yakin', more wrenchin'!

 

[Fast Eddy]

I am going to take the drum off tomorrow morning and reverify what washer is in there. If it's the wrong washer the clearance should go right back to spec, I would guess.

It was right on the torque spec and the thick OEM washer was in there.

I could only get the thinnest of my feeler gauges in either of the thrust clearances, 0.0015. 0.0025 would not fit. (?)

There were minimal metal flakes on the drain plug magnet, but the fluid was pretty cloudy with what I assume is metal powder.

 

[orangefj45]

I wouldn't classify that as "minimal" if it's only got 500 miles on it.

 

[Fast Eddy]

I wouldn't classify that as "minimal" if it's only got 500 miles on it.

Good point. It's coming out shortly.

 

[orangefj45]

Just thinking out loud.....


If you get it out of the cruiser tonight, then maybe somebody local could bring it to SNT and hand it off to mark A. That'll save time and shipping expenses.

Just a thought.

 

[Fast Eddy]

If you get it out of the cruiser tonight, then maybe somebody local could bring it to SNT and hand it off to mark A. That'll save time and shipping expenses.

You forget that I have a spare cruiser. I'm going. I just got off the phone with him. He sounded pretty stoked to tear into it and see what happened.

 

[orangefj45]

Perfect!

 

[Cdaniel]

Finally getting back to LC stuff after getting attention sucked away by the sand toys.

I tried the sanding approach to the thrust washers but gave up after only seeing .001 removal of material from way too much effort. I called in a favor from a machine shop we use at work and had them surface ground. Now is seems the old manual grinder he used was a bit out of spec as my clearance is not equal on the full diameter of the thrust washers. (+/-.001) And now I have one that's at .006 minimum.

I'm thinking that it's okay with a slightly less than parallel thrust surface, but what say you gurus?

AA supplies the stepped washers and not flat washers since you should have those from your donor case.
I like setting them up with .006-.008 endplay. I would not run .012" it's just too much. In your case, I would take one of the stepped washers and flat sand them till you get .006" endplay. Proper flat sanding is crucial!!!!!! Take a piece of new 600wet-dry paper and put it on a very flat and smooth surface. Put the washer down and manipulate it in a figure-8 Pattern. This will ensure even removal of material all the way around. Do not sand the washer by going in circles. This will cause uneven removal!!!!

Hth

Georg @ valley hybrids

 

[orangefj45]

Hey cliff.
Is the clearance issue you're having on the high or low gear side?
Georg

 

[Cdaniel]

Hey cliff.
Is the clearance issue you're having on the high or low gear side?
Georg

Both gears were tight with the stepped washer shallow side and loose with the stock washer.

Both gears have the described varied clearance with my modified washers.

Low speed gear has slightly more clearance than the high speed gear.

 

[orangefj45]

Call me "anal",.......but I'd flat sand the washers. Shouldn't take much. Measure them with the mics. Find the thickest part and mark it. Then use a new sheet of 600 wet/dry. Put the thickest part of the washer the furthest from you and sand it in a straight back and forth motion. Your fingers will inevitably apply the most pressure on the far end of the washer, causing material to be removed from the leading edge and tapering off towards you.
That should help you get the washer flat again.
Hth
Georg

 

[orangefj45]

Ps: that's the kind if info I learned from one of my mentors, a retired master machinist and tool&dye maker. I wish I knew 10% of what he knew about manipulating metals. Rip John. One of the sharper people I've ever met.

Georg

 

[Cdaniel]

Okay got the washer situation straightened out so to speak. Turned out to be a tiny dent on the edge of my feeler gauge

So in a stupid attempt to knock a bearing race back with the output shaft, after too much preload. I managed to ruin a bearing race I think.

Put a mark in the nose cone one as well, but It seems okay.

Georg have you got these bearings in stock Or should I get with AA?