O R I O N

[orangefj45]

I wouldn't recommend running those races and bearings. Pm me with the part # on them, I should have them separately.
Hth
Georg

 

[Cdaniel]

All right, I started over with two new bearings and put it all back together. I set the initial depth of the rear bearing race by using the rear retainer and gasket only. Figuring I can work my way deeper with the shims as needed. The AA instructions say 10-20 in/lbs of torque using just the nut on the shaft. At this minimum depth it's already too tight about 30 in/lbs.

So is this situation not unheard of? Has it been necessary to machine the bearing housing back on some of these?

 

[orangefj45]

Bolt the speedo housing on with the gasket. Then take a brass hammer and smack the top of the case ( from the top ) right next to the threaded hole for the shift rail set screw. Don't worry, you're not going to hurt it. The shock from the impact will "seat" your bearing race.
Measure your preload again. I bet it'll change.

Georg

 

[Cdaniel]

Bolt the speedo housing on with the gasket. Then take a brass hammer and smack the top of the case ( from the top ) right next to the threaded hole for the shift rail set screw. Don't worry, you're not going to hurt it. The shock from the impact will "seat" your bearing race.
Measure your preload again. I bet it'll change.

Georg

Fine idea, tried it, no change.
No brass hammer, but I took some good whacks at it with a piece of aluminum as a buffer.

 

[orangefj45]

Did you install a shim behind the bearing race in the nose cone? How's the gear alignment?

Georg

 

[Cdaniel]

No shims anywhere. Gear alignment appears good. I can snap a pic of that later.

 

[orangefj45]

i've never had to shave the speedo housing. i would double check the bearing race in the nose cone.

georg

 

[Cdaniel]

i've never had to shave the speedo housing. i would double check the bearing race in the nose cone.

georg

Not sure what to check there. I just reinstalled the race with the new bearing, in a freshly cleaned bore and re applied Loctite for the loose fit. It's seated positively. I suppose it's possible there's an undiscovered burr in there, but I doubt it. Given my issues with thrust washers as well, I'm beginning to suspect that this new output shaft has some tolerance issues between the shoulders for the bearings.

 

[Cdaniel]

Gear alignment pics, looks within parameters hopefully?

Why the big thickness difference between the low speed gear and it's idler?

Got with tech at AA and this situation isn't new. Thanks for the help! (sorry I've spaced your name already ) Next stop is getting the speedo housing shaved a bit.

 

[peesalot]

Did you use a gasket on the nose cone ? Is there lube on the bearings ?

 

[Cdaniel]

Did you use a gasket on the nose cone ? Is there lube on the bearings ?

Affirmative on both counts.

 

[Cdaniel]

Preload update

Stop the presses!
I took a step back and thought it through, re check and what not.

The question comes to mind "how accurate is this tool I'm using to measure this critical issue?"

Turns out probably not very.

I bought a new dial type 0-160 in/lb wrench and started over with the process. I now have a stack of shims in there and have hit about 12 in/lbs using the nut on the shaft. No machining, no whacking.

The old Craftsman clicker wrench has now been retired.

Now the question for the experienced is: given the 10-20 inch/lb range would you shoot for the middle or go high or low?

I'm surprised at how tight it is to turn with a bare hand now.

 

[Cdaniel]

What is this for?

Among the various "extras" in the the Orion kit is this small seal. I don't remember seeing a place for this or taking one out of the donor. What's it for? Or what have I spaced out?

Also, to any of you guys from AA that may be looking at this thread: Your instructions need some work. In the kit is a set screw that appears to be needed to the help lock the shift rail in place (my assumption). No mention of this in the instructions. The run on sentences and wayward placement of un labeled pictures makes it tough to follow. Tech pubs 101, number the steps and the figures and reference the figure numbers in the step.

Another comment for you AA guys, How about some edge breaks on your turned parts that require o-rings to be stretched over them?

 

[orangefj45]

Range fork shift lever seal.

 

[Cdaniel]

Range fork shift lever seal.

Too small. Got that one installed in the cover already.

 

[orangefj45]

The one you pictured is the early version.

Georg

 

[Tokamak]

Orion PreLoad

I just did my preload Sunday. Needed .014" of shim to get less than 20 in/lbs and more than 10 in/lbs. Kinda tough using a clicker.

Going to double check with a dial type. This is such a small range to hit I found that letting it sit for 10 minutes gives me a higher reading (over 20 on the clicker) on the break away. After I rotate it a few times by hand I get a break away of under 20 in/lbs. I am assuming the reading after rotating a few times is correct.

Ditto on the instructions, not great. Higher res pictures would help.

 

[Cdaniel]

I would recommend the dial over the clicker for sure for this application. Having the recorder needle on there is perfect for this.

You can download the instructions with color photos on the AA site and print it in color for some better pics. Still doesn't help with non stop sentence writing and meandering picture placement.

 

[Poser]

F A Q <---- this is a link

 

[Tokamak]

Thanks Steve, Excellent write up.
Ever considered putting a link in the Tech Links area?