Nut & Bolt Frame-Off 1978 FJ40 Restoration

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I was going to suggest that. It would be a cool gesture if you bring to him in the 40 when it is done.
 
Have the body on it's side right now so I can access the underside. There a a number of broken bolts that need to be extracted, and several areas that need some TLC with the welder and angle grinder.

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I'm gonna take notes on this part, the longer it goes the more I want to put the Pile back to right and the biggest issue is broken off bolts. Worst spot is the ones that mount the windshield frame to the cowl, which will probably require cutting out the whole piece, fixing and welding back in.

You've already put new fender skins on haven't you?
 
Do you have any left handed drill bits for the broken bolts?
Soak them them in some kinda penetrating oil, center punch and start drilling.
I keep a set all time; saved quite a few cruiser friends along way using them on broken bolts.
 
Order some Kroil online. Kroil is the best stuff on the planet for broken bolts.
 
I second the left hand bits.
 
@jynx , yup on the bits.

The best way that I found to remove the windshield bolts was with a lot of heat. Heat bolts until they start to glow, then crank them out.

@Bodean , yup, Kroil is the best. You can buy it locally at Fastenal, though it's as high as a cat's back.
 
Windshield bolts... Do you have a driver screwdriver? (not sure if that's the right name). You hit it with a hammer and it turns the bit. That's how I got mine out when I did it.
 
Impact bit driver
 
I do, but the issue is slightly larger than that. Unfortunately PO did not have an impact driver or any heat....

Passenger side broke and he started drilling them but have up
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Drivers side the welded nuts broke loose and the bolts broke off too
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I'm on the road and been pondering on it this weekend. I'm afraid this is going to be a problem for me. @MScruiser was much more careful with his disassembly I'm sure. I'm afraid this may necessitate lots of cutting and welding, or a different tub all together for me...
 
New wheel cylinders, new stainless hardware, new brake pads from @wngrog , and new OE hubcaps from Beno.

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Pretty new OE shift knob too!

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@jynx ,

I'd start hitting them with Kroil or PB Blaster. After a few days, heat them up rear good with a torch until they start to glow, then go at them with a left hand drill bit.
 
I do, but the issue is slightly larger than that. Unfortunately PO did not have an impact driver or any heat....

Passenger side broke and he started drilling them but have up
View attachment 1347780

Drivers side the welded nuts broke loose and the bolts broke off too
View attachment 1347781

I'm on the road and been pondering on it this weekend. I'm afraid this is going to be a problem for me. @MScruiser was much more careful with his disassembly I'm sure. I'm afraid this may necessitate lots of cutting and welding, or a different tub all together for me...

Find a nut slightly larger than the broken screw. Carefully weld the center of the nut to the broken screw. The welding provides the heat you need. If the nut twists off just grab another and repeat. May take a few attempts but I find it the easiest method without doing more damage.
 
That method works great too.
 
I will try that on the DS. The PS I will just have to finish drilling out and chase.

Did a little recon when we got home this afternoon and found that I was way off on the broken weld theory, the nuts are captured in a little box like contraption that is spot welded to the inside of the cowl. So if I can load up the on blaster and then get a nut to hold and add enough heat, in theory I should be able to get them out.

@MScruiser sorry to clutter up your thread.
 
I have had good luck with the weld-a-nut method, but only after I wait for the weld to cool a little. Twisted nuts right off when weld was still hot.
 

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