Nut & Bolt Frame-Off 1978 FJ40 Restoration

[ntsaint]

@MScruiser what's the secret to the transformation there?

 

[MScruiser]

Good question.

1. File open all cracks.
2. Clean with degreaser and hot soapy water.
3. Fill with JB-Weld
4. Sand flush
5. Sand entire wheel with 220
6. Clean
7. Black epoxy
8. Clear coat
9. Wetsand with 2000 grit
10. Polish with DA Sander
11. Wax and Polish with microfiber

#2bucketfabupinthisbiatch

 

[ntsaint]

JesusH

 

[fj40charles]

Very nice. Looks like time to hang up your small engine repair and do LC restorations. Just make sure you keep the midget away.

 

[MScruiser]

JesusH

Yeah.

Keep in mind though, you can buy restored steering wheels from Cruiser Corps for $1000, plus they require you to donate your old steering core. I say it's a good 3-4 hours spent.

 

[wngrog]

What did you put JB weld on?

 

[MScruiser]

What did you put JB weld on?

Cracks in the plastic. Pretty common from my research. Learned about the method reading through jaloplink journal articles and classic car forums. You have to grind out the cracks with a Dremel or triangular file before the JB-Weld.

 

[wngrog]

That takes a serious gift of concentration.

Just reading the process.....I skipped ahead.

 

[offr0adlim0]

Or high doses of adderall

 

[MScruiser]

Ok, I'm having some trouble here.

I need to PC my steering shaft, shaft shroud, and shaft bucket. In order to do so, I need to remove the ignition assembly from the shaft. There appears the be a shaft bearing at the bottom of the ignition, and a shaft bearing at the top of the ignition. The upper bearing appears to be held in place by a C-clip (which I have removed).

I assumed the ignition would slide off the shaft with the upper bearing, but it's not budging. I am assuming that the bearing is just frozen to the shaft, and a few hits with a BFG will get it lose. On the other hand though, I could be wrong, and could be running the risk of damaging something. I'd hate to break the ignition, or the bearings (each bearing is around $70 to replace).

Can someone help me figure out the right way to do this? @offr0adlim0 or @FJ40Jim ?

 

[MScruiser]

Never mind! I got it figured out; just took some extra whacks with the hammer.

 

[MScruiser]

Before:

After:

 

[MScruiser]

Gave the ignition a good cleaning, also cleaned the connections with Simple Green and wrapped the shrouds in new 3M tape.

 

[MScruiser]

Got the bearing pulled, cleaned, and repacked with Royal Purple. Also polished the upper steering shaft. I'll sandblast the rest of the shaft and have it PC'd with the shroud and bucket.

 

[77TLCFJ40]

Better to polish your shaft than sandblast it!

 

[MScruiser]

Can someone give me a bit of help. I'll be getting to restoring the front heater soon, and I'm getting a lot of mixed results trying to find the correct color. I've seen black, gray, and pewter.

Anyone know, without a shadow of a doubt, what color the front heater is supposed to be on a 1978?

 

[wngrog]

I can tell you beyond a shadow of doubt the gas pedal ain't gold on a 78 and you go that so make it any color you want.

It's black tho.

 

[MScruiser]

Before I removed my gas pedal for blasting, it was a faded gold yellow zinc/cadmium. Many of the restored 40s I've studied had them too....

Paging @beno

Onur, can you shed some light on this subject?

 

[MScruiser]

Here you go, @wngrog

Yellow zinc/cadmium

(Keep in mind about what I said earlier; mine is matte because of the abrasive blasting I used)

 

[dnp]

Here you go, @wngrog

Yellow zinc/cadmium

View attachment 1312729

(Keep in mind about what I said earlier; mine is matte because of the abrasive blasting I used)

FWIW: My only exposure to having parts Cadmium plated was on the old Ferraris, and none of those came back in anything other than a dull/matte silver color. Never saw any with even the slightest yellow tint. The pedal you posted above is what I've always heard described as "gold anodized." Did you have your silver cadmium parts chromated?