teejnut
SILVER Star
Ah wish I was closer to get it installed with a fender cut too!
NST Spec Body Lift Kit (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter MTKID
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Looks good! Assuming that is with ahc in N?
I’ve been toying with the idea of trying your body lift kit and figuring out 40’s next.
Seems like a natural progression.
- Thread starter
- #83
I don’t remember if that was in N or High
Could be High, but I don’t remember. I remember thinking it really didn’t look crazy tall anywhere. If you didn’t know, you’d swear it was still primarily stock.One other issue he can give input about too… we were trying to figure out that middle bolt and created one sleeved with some tubing and it didn’t feel like it engaged the body and the crossmember at the same time despite what looked like good math. So we made a new one a little shorter and he noted some clunking when he got home, so he added a washer to it and I think it was fine, but I wish I knew exactly what that bolt was for and if the correct 1” or 1.5” simply added to its dimensions was perfect or if it needed something different. This is what I have sent out to a couple more people recently.
For those wondering about gaps etc., here is a photo of my LX with the NST Spec 1” body lift on 37s in Normal mode. I think the angled TKO sliders help the 1” gap not look to visible at all.
Can confirm that the bolt head floats above and doesn't engage the body. It looks like a overload type bolt that only engages in an accident type situation
teejnut
SILVER Star
Looks good! How was fitting the 37s with just a 1" BL? Are those Method 705 in +35 offset? What tires?
+25 and I have the SPC UCAs, plus some cutting of the front bumper and BMC.
Once it is all done I’ll be posting everything up including the alignment specs.
The shop said at a decent pace downhill, going over a bump transitioning to going uphill, they rubbed just slightly. I believe once the Perry Parts extended bump stops go in, I should be good. Also, will be moving the fender liners up as @MTKID suggested I do what @TeCKis300 did.
Last edited:
I don't believe that center bolt is meant to engage the body. Before I added the washer, there was a squeak there from the body and frame flexing over curbs as it's the only one without any bushing. Once I added the washer, it just barely floats now as it was contacting the body sheet metal before about a half turn before fully torqued.I don’t remember if that was in N or High
One other issue he can give input about too… we were trying to figure out that middle bolt and created one sleeved with some tubing and it didn’t feel like it engaged the body and the crossmember at the same time despite what looked like good math. So we made a new one a little shorter and he noted some clunking when he got home, so he added a washer to it and I think it was fine, but I wish I knew exactly what that bolt was for and if the correct 1” or 1.5” simply added to its dimensions was perfect or if it needed something different. This is what I have sent out to a couple more people recently.
View attachment 3657633
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
I know I’m a sad broken record, but watch that front fender at lock if you start sending it
- Thread starter
- #90
We added the snowbound customs 3rd gen windshield washer fluid reservoir today to Jason’s LX. At the time of purchase, it was less expensive than the Rago Fab one (which appears to be on sale now) that had been used a couple of times, and this Snowbound part has a nice vented cap.
We used two packages of 5/32” tubing from O’Reilly’s to extend the lines to the front.
The holes in the bottom needed to be enlarged to about 1 3/8” for the two pumps (we only used the windshield and rear window pump and abandoned the headlight connection). I used a large step bit for this.
Then a smaller hole was drilled in the side for the low fluid sensor.
A couple of small insulated clamps were used to hold the tubing extensions along the inside of the driver’s fender, then running inside the engine bay, in front of the battery.
One small sticky backed piece of foam was added on the back to prevent any damage or noise from a hardline that protrudes behind the tank.
Also, I just reused the bracket supplied, but cut it up and bent it for my application. I used two M8 riv-nuts into the top radiator support. Lastly, you can see the relay that we simply used foam trim tape to secure to the side of the tank.
This is just another option in addition to the Rago Fab.
We used two packages of 5/32” tubing from O’Reilly’s to extend the lines to the front.
The holes in the bottom needed to be enlarged to about 1 3/8” for the two pumps (we only used the windshield and rear window pump and abandoned the headlight connection). I used a large step bit for this.
Then a smaller hole was drilled in the side for the low fluid sensor.
A couple of small insulated clamps were used to hold the tubing extensions along the inside of the driver’s fender, then running inside the engine bay, in front of the battery.
One small sticky backed piece of foam was added on the back to prevent any damage or noise from a hardline that protrudes behind the tank.
Also, I just reused the bracket supplied, but cut it up and bent it for my application. I used two M8 riv-nuts into the top radiator support. Lastly, you can see the relay that we simply used foam trim tape to secure to the side of the tank.
This is just another option in addition to the Rago Fab.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #91
We also redid Jason’s body mount chop since his 37’s were still rubbing. I want to provide these photos for a reference of where to cut for the chop. Keep in mind these photos are of a previous chop being made more aggressive. You will find a small hole on the top of the body mount and I’ve now lined up with the back of that on two rigs.
Reference photo from underneath…
And after welding, before paint…
The thing I spend a bit of time on is making sure the edge of the recessed cup that I’ve cut into is really smoothly blended so it doesn’t damage the upper bushing. Or maybe I just find it really satisfying to blend this area smooth
Hope this helps anyone planning on 37’s understand how much to cut. Depending on alignment, this still isn’t providing a huge amount of clearance, but if you’re committed to 37’s & going to do the body chop, might as well make it right the first time.
The upper body mount bushing will protrude just a little from the mount, which can be easily trimmed if needed.
Reference photo from underneath…
And after welding, before paint…
The thing I spend a bit of time on is making sure the edge of the recessed cup that I’ve cut into is really smoothly blended so it doesn’t damage the upper bushing. Or maybe I just find it really satisfying to blend this area smooth
Hope this helps anyone planning on 37’s understand how much to cut. Depending on alignment, this still isn’t providing a huge amount of clearance, but if you’re committed to 37’s & going to do the body chop, might as well make it right the first time.
The upper body mount bushing will protrude just a little from the mount, which can be easily trimmed if needed.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #92
Also tried to create a solution by reusing the inner fender liner. It isn’t perfect at the front and back ends after securing the top/middle, which will leave you to creatively cut the ends and secure with zip ties.
These are the tabs I cut from the factory fenders that had been removed already.
Three factory tabs epoxied to the inside of the remaining portion of the fender just above that visible body line. Maybe 3/8” above the edge.
I used this 3m epoxy, which worked great but we added heat for about 15-20min to help it cure more quickly while the tabs were clamped. I would also recommend the equivalent metal epoxy from the Lord Fusor brand.
And I didn’t get any photos of the end solution but we cut about 3/8”-1/2” off of the inner liner around these tabs and zip tied the holes together since I no longer had the clips. Many of them broke when removed.
Then you’ll be left with the front and rear portion not lining up with any other holes. The rear especially (considering how much fender we removed) sticks out and has to be trimmed down to a point that we zip tied to the bottom fender attachment. Given more time I could have created additional tabs to epoxy to the fender but zip ties were the solution for the remaining time available. This also made the fender much more stable.
At any rate, this is really nice to keep the intake and secondary air pumps a little more clean.
These are the tabs I cut from the factory fenders that had been removed already.
Three factory tabs epoxied to the inside of the remaining portion of the fender just above that visible body line. Maybe 3/8” above the edge.
I used this 3m epoxy, which worked great but we added heat for about 15-20min to help it cure more quickly while the tabs were clamped. I would also recommend the equivalent metal epoxy from the Lord Fusor brand.
And I didn’t get any photos of the end solution but we cut about 3/8”-1/2” off of the inner liner around these tabs and zip tied the holes together since I no longer had the clips. Many of them broke when removed.
Then you’ll be left with the front and rear portion not lining up with any other holes. The rear especially (considering how much fender we removed) sticks out and has to be trimmed down to a point that we zip tied to the bottom fender attachment. Given more time I could have created additional tabs to epoxy to the fender but zip ties were the solution for the remaining time available. This also made the fender much more stable.
At any rate, this is really nice to keep the intake and secondary air pumps a little more clean.
Last edited:
kms254
SILVER Star
If there is room on the 1.5 list I want a spot!
Picked the LX up yesterday and drove to Windrock on the way home. Hit the park for sunrise this morning and did a few trails. Happy to report the front fenders had room to go full lock while stuffed and rear fenders were good too. This is not aired down either. The front did kiss the body mount chop just ever so slightly.
I will post up more info once I get home.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Just for reference, this is a 37 at true full bump/lock with the shock removed, and I cut more after:
And I stink at taking shots of myself off-roading, but here’s one showing a bit of off camber at Moab, and you can see how close I am at the front to rubbing, even with body lift and a cut. Granted offset and stuff will play a role, just don’t want you bending up your truck, it looks so nice!
I appreciate it and had my concerns as well! I also appreciate the truck looks nice comment, as it definitely has its battle scars lol. Your rig looks really nice!
Full lock the opposite way remains to be seen, but think I might be alright. Time will tell. In the photo below you can see some battle scars on the rocker panel, which came from running Crawl Daddy with the stock running boards, not from these 37s.
Specs on the wheels are 25 offset, 17x8.5. Tires are Kamari Mud Hogs 37x12.5x17 with an actual diameter of 36.8”. Perhaps offset and alignment?
Do you have 37x12.5 or 13.5?
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Thanks! Mine are 12.5 and not sure what wheel offset because of the beadlock conversion which widens them about 1/2” or so. I am on tundra arms though because I was hitting the frame at full lock before, which might add to the whole mess!
I was going to say it may have been the Perry Parts extended bump store I have too.
You have a whole lot going on. In a good way lol. Hell of a build man!
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Thanks - took a while! You’re absolutely right the bump stops will help keep you off, and I wonder if @PerryParts might have the max compressed height just to give you a good idea of margins!
