- Thread starter
- #21
TTT - Surely one of our sage body men have a suggestion on how to handle the above???
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From the pic, I’d make a uniform gap of filler where the taillight meets the quarter, spot prime / chalk dust the area and move on. Spot prime the welds on the interior too.
Looking good. I really encourage pulling the quarter glass. It's a great time to address the rust u likely will find
With your welds make sure you paint the back sides with something. I like por15 in a aerosol can.
Just use the rope method. Should be some YouTube videos on installing glass with rope. Plan on replacing the weatherstrip, it will likely be torn. For the harder to access welds u should be able to reach with a brush. For color change on mine I kept the color similar to the original color. Mine was gold, I painted it quicksand tan. The original color jams dont look too far off.Just watched the video on youtube on how to remove it - looks simple enough - how about putting it back in? Didn't find any videos on that so makes me wonder!
Will do on all the ones I can get to. The ones in the rear doors that contained the rivets to hold the flares are in the bottom corner and I don't know if I can get in there with paint??
the Tacoma Cement Gray would be my vote.
Seems the parts that are rough are just areas that would see water run off, maybe just a build up of water and grime? Also, my vote on color is black. Whenever my customers ask me what I recommend to use for straight black, I always recommend Mazda code NN. At least in my Valspar line, it’s just black and binder and looks killer in single stage. Black with Gold emblems is, in my opinion, the best looking 80 out there.That said, here are more questions... Are these jambs supposed to be shiny? I don't think this is overspray since these parts of the truck have original paint but it is surely rough / not shiny.
Side of hatch:
Under side of hatch:
Back of hatch: