Now Painted!: Paint Prep - Need advice as I go (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Jeff Elliott
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- Thread starter
- #42
Sunday bump!
Toyota may have applied clear coat to some areas of the jambs for whatever reason. A lot of the jambs dont have clear coat in most areas.That said, here are more questions... Are these jambs supposed to be shiny? I don't think this is overspray since these parts of the truck have original paint but it is surely rough / not shiny.
Side of hatch:
Under side of hatch:
Back of hatch:
- Thread starter
- #44
I would agree except that the black and white trucks were all single stage. I’ve verified this based on sanding the non repainted sections of the truck -for sure single stage.
Black is a 2 stage paint.
- Thread starter
- #46
Actually it's not per my searches here. A quick google of FZJ 80 and single stage reveals 10+ hits from the likes of @cruiserdan and others that white and black were both single stage and this syncs with my experience on my rig - the side not involved in body repair is 100% single stage based on my sanding and the side that had damage has been base cleared.
- Thread starter
- #47
And today I found more clear coat - on the tailgate / hatch this time. Found it when I pulled the emblems off. That's the smoking gun that it was a repaint (which I already had no doubt). These pics are after the adhesive eraser wheel had done it's job - these are the edges of the clear:
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- Thread starter
- #48
I have seen quite a few threads about 80's rusting near the window gasket on the back hatch. I'm going to have to sand the hatch since it has been clear coated and wondered if I need to pull the glass. Don't really want any more work since I'm way beyond "while I'm in there" but also want to ensure I'm doing reasonable rust identification / prevention since I'm this far in. @LINUS , @White Stripe , others, suggestions? @SUMMIT CRUISERS you did an amazing respray - did you pull the rear hatch glass or just mask?
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I disagree man. On my 4runner when I removed the factory emblems it left similar marks in the clear. It takes paint up to like 6 months AFAIK to fully cure and Toyota slaps the emblems on not long after paint. So the emblems kind of burn into the clear coat a bit. So I still think you have a clear coat, but that's just my opinion. As far as the rear hatch glass that's up to you. If you suspect rust I would pull it. I had a windshield company reinstall my windshield and rear hatch with new oem weatherstripping and had them follow the service manual procedureAnd today I found more clear coat - on the tailgate / hatch this time. Found it when I pulled the emblems off. That's the smoking gun that it was a repaint (which I already had no doubt). These pics are after the adhesive eraser wheel had done it's job - these are the edges of the clear:
- Thread starter
- #50
Thanks @White Stripe - I totally agree I have clear coat - I just don't know which half of the truck is factory paint and which is aftermarket. Here's why I say that - I't unmistakable when' you're sanding clear... it is much more difficult to sand and creates tons of white dust so super easy to identify (plus it had failed in a ton of places - not like toyota factory fails - this was peeling off in sheets). I had that on the entire driver's side and up the c-pillar. However, the passenger side, hood and roof sand easily and with black dust - they are for sure single stage. So now we're down to the hatch and tailgate which appear to have clear so will need a sand and repaint if I'm gonna go single stage. I guess whether it was that way from the factory or otherwise doesn't matter anymore since I'm now painting everything!
My best theory is that someone repainted the driver's side, up the c-pillar and the tailgate and hatch in base / clear. I get the entire driver's side and the c-pillar but can't explain the hatch and tailgate as I can't find any bodywork on them.
So, about this rear glass - how hard is it to pull and does it have to be reinstalled by a glass company or can I do it? I searched and didn't find much other than folks pulling the sliders.
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
@Jeff Elliott -
The rear glass R&R is really simple & there’s the fix for rear hatch rust (a thing my black 80 needs now)
-Pop the glass from the inside, starting carefully in a upper corner.
If your’re rust free, wash the gasket clean / use a new one &:
Run a loop of ~50# test mono in the groove, leaving a good 2’ of tails from each end & tie a simple overhand knot dead-center in the top side with the gasket back on the glass.
Normally at this point you would use weakened dish-soap to lube the groove & pop it right in place.
—Don’t—
Run a bead of RTV silicone the entire perimeter & it’ll take a helper to push from outside while you guide the gasket back on the hatch rim.
Start that top edge & work your way around using the mono to flip the gasket onto the lip - it will be a messy a$$ job so be prepared.
I did the top, down both sides, then worked the bottom over to 1 remaining lower corner & fiished the last of my mono out there.
Now wipe up the RTV with plain-jane isopropyl alchohol & let it sit for a good day to cure.
-Same as a new windshield, if you open/close doors in the day, crack down a window so air displaced pressure goes there.
If you’re starting with a rust free hatch, this fixes the way the OE gasket traps water & you’ll never see rust start on it.
I did it on my 450, mainly because I broke a RR window & had to buy glass - but it was rust - free so it was a simple job.
HTH.
The rear glass R&R is really simple & there’s the fix for rear hatch rust (a thing my black 80 needs now)
-Pop the glass from the inside, starting carefully in a upper corner.
If your’re rust free, wash the gasket clean / use a new one &:
Run a loop of ~50# test mono in the groove, leaving a good 2’ of tails from each end & tie a simple overhand knot dead-center in the top side with the gasket back on the glass.
Normally at this point you would use weakened dish-soap to lube the groove & pop it right in place.
—Don’t—
Run a bead of RTV silicone the entire perimeter & it’ll take a helper to push from outside while you guide the gasket back on the hatch rim.
Start that top edge & work your way around using the mono to flip the gasket onto the lip - it will be a messy a$$ job so be prepared.
I did the top, down both sides, then worked the bottom over to 1 remaining lower corner & fiished the last of my mono out there.
Now wipe up the RTV with plain-jane isopropyl alchohol & let it sit for a good day to cure.
-Same as a new windshield, if you open/close doors in the day, crack down a window so air displaced pressure goes there.
If you’re starting with a rust free hatch, this fixes the way the OE gasket traps water & you’ll never see rust start on it.
I did it on my 450, mainly because I broke a RR window & had to buy glass - but it was rust - free so it was a simple job.
HTH.
- Thread starter
- #52
@LINUS , thank you so much - I took your advice and did in fact find rust... If anyone wants to point me in the right direction in terms of how to fix / prevent it I'd appreciate it. I wire wheeled it but now need to deal with rust that's in between the two pieces where they're pinch welded.
- Thread starter
- #53
All taped and ready for primer this weekend... Going with 2K high build then epoxy primer to seal it all up. Decided to do base / clear as I am so deep in this and want the longest lasting paint job possible.
For the pinch weld I would dribble a few liberal coats of rust converter hoping it soaks in and neutralizes followed by some por15.@LINUS , thank you so much - I took your advice and did in fact find rust... If anyone wants to point me in the right direction in terms of how to fix / prevent it I'd appreciate it. I wire wheeled it but now need to deal with rust that's in between the two pieces where they're pinch welded.
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
Same.
You can either use some rust converter of just thin down some POR-15 & pour some in. It likes biting into rust over clean metal. (The POR-15)
When you re-install the glass with RTV it’ll encapsulate that entire pinch-weld area the full glass perimeter.
Down the line when you are cured up, you could drip some ATF into the tailgate ala’ the Wagongear way, takes care of rust in the lower pinch by the hinges - but between rust converter or POR-15, your hatch will be great esp when you fill that gap with RTV.
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
@Jeff Elliott - looking good BTW!
I may reshoot mine when you post pics all colorsanded & looking like it’s 1997 again
I may reshoot mine when you post pics all colorsanded & looking like it’s 1997 again
- Thread starter
- #57
Thank you guys! Will keep you posted...
- Thread starter
- #58
Primer!!!
Well, got three coats of high build in place. Looking pretty good and I'm excited!!! Next step is blocking then some light filler (since I'm no bodyman) and then a couple coats of epoxy to seal everything up. Got to figure out my timeline because you only get 48 hrs to top coat the epoxy.
Well, got three coats of high build in place. Looking pretty good and I'm excited!!! Next step is blocking then some light filler (since I'm no bodyman) and then a couple coats of epoxy to seal everything up. Got to figure out my timeline because you only get 48 hrs to top coat the epoxy.
@Jeff Elliott Nice build! Are those 16x8 -25 offset FN five stars on 35's?
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
Looking sharp!
-You’re becoming an enabler of sorts, I think that Cement color over my grey leather would look great if I go “whole hog“ on paint.........
Impressive you went full ‘hatch off’ - I’d only have gone that far for a color change, but tour previous paintwork was excellent so I think you speak under your skill, not a common trait anymore
Good stuff!
-Dig the pics!
-You’re becoming an enabler of sorts, I think that Cement color over my grey leather would look great if I go “whole hog“ on paint.........
Impressive you went full ‘hatch off’ - I’d only have gone that far for a color change, but tour previous paintwork was excellent so I think you speak under your skill, not a common trait anymore
Good stuff!
-Dig the pics!
