Notched 60 front axles

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Final product just got to finish weld. Fair amount of labor and thought to make this work but she is dead nuts center. No welded on nuts or anything goofy.
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looks tough as, but how do u get to the nut?
 
looks tough as, but how do u get to the nut?

Just stick the impact on the bolt head and I can get it tight. Its such tight tolerance that the nut can't spin all the way around so you don't need to get a wrench or anything on it.
 
Final product just got to finish weld. Fair amount of labor and thought to make this work but she is dead nuts center. No welded on nuts or anything goofy.

Interesting. So one less stud on the third and a notch cut in the flange to allow removal?
:beer:
 
Interesting. So one less stud on the third and a notch cut in the flange to allow removal?
:beer:

Exactly. the 3rd has about 1/2" of flange left I notched the rest to clear the perch. It would be funny if someone tried this, welded the perch on and forgot about the 3rd :D it would be trapped
 
Donno if I missed this in the thread, but why did you opt to flip the diff to the DS?
Could you have made your rear shackle hanger, deal stick out a bit further off the frame to have achieved better spring alignment? In other words....out boarded a bit more?
Maybe its the pic, but it almost looks as if the rear of the spring pack is angled in towards the frame more than the front...I think this is what you and bustanutley were deicsussing a few posts back?

Im curious cuz a DS drop would help my front DS with running the 4L60E trans.
 
Final product just got to finish weld. Fair amount of labor and thought to make this work but she is dead nuts center. No welded on nuts or anything goofy.

I ran the same perch after Ruffstuff talked me into it. They are tough as nails and makes it nice that you don't have to do weird bends on the ubolt or anything
 
Donno if I missed this in the thread, but why did you opt to flip the diff to the DS?
Could you have made your rear shackle hanger, deal stick out a bit further off the frame to have achieved better spring alignment? In other words....out boarded a bit more?
Maybe its the pic, but it almost looks as if the rear of the spring pack is angled in towards the frame more than the front...I think this is what you and bustanutley were deicsussing a few posts back?

Im curious cuz a DS drop would help my front DS with running the 4L60E trans.

The long answer on why this is driver drop...
Baja FJ45 (Buildup thread) - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board

The short answer is, I wanted to try a few different things on this build. It has a Tacoma motor,tranny and transfer case. This is not and never will be a wheeler I have my other car for racing and rock crawling its a driver, I did not want to use a mini truck case.

Replied to your thread on pirate about the driver drop, ect...
 
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Has any one out here used this mod on the rear axle with custom Long shafts and drive flanges for extra width?

I'm in two minds whether to put Poly FF rear shafts or custom Longs and flanges into my 60 rear axle in my 40.. If I get custom shafts made, why not widen at the same time?
 
Has any one out here used this mod on the rear axle with custom Long shafts and drive flanges for extra width?

I'm in two minds whether to put Poly FF rear shafts or custom Longs and flanges into my 60 rear axle in my 40.. If I get custom shafts made, why not widen at the same time?

My axle is an fzj80 that's custom on the passenger side to match fj60 width with a Longfield shaft and drive flange. I have pics of the cut and weld, but not of the shaft/flange yet. He added a collar and machined it down for the seal surface. It's nice. Check the 'Marvin' thread one level up (not the one in my sig). I'll add some pics of the shaft/flange sometime during the next week.

I used the ruff stuff perches on the front fj62 axle too. We cut them down lower and TiG welded the bolt in the front hole so it would all fit. I think we took about 1/2" out of the height of the perches.
 

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