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My 40 is wanting to not run after the engine was turned over without the distributor in. I reset it back to spec and now I can only get it to run on the throttle and have no idle. I don’t know how to post a video on here so if anyone can help me out that would be great. If yall need any more details just let me know. Has fresh plugs too.
 
Probably need more information here. What year truck and motor. When you say you reset it back to factory spec, what exactly do you mean? A couple of random thoughts until someone more knowledgeable chimes in: It may not have been set to factory spec before the mishap; so you may need to play with the timing; is it possible that the fuel cutoff solenoid became dislodged? Spark plug wires in the correct firing order?
 
So you set #1 TDC on the compression, then put in the dizzy pointing at #4. The rotor turns as it seats, easy to get one tooth off.
 
Probably need more information here. What year truck and motor. When you say you reset it back to factory spec, what exactly do you mean? A couple of random thoughts until someone more knowledgeable chimes in: It may not have been set to factory spec before the mishap; so you may need to play with the timing; is it possible that the fuel cutoff solenoid became dislodged? Spark plug wires in the correct firing order?
Everything should be correct. It is a 1969 f155 engine. With an electric fuel pump. I think the timing was definitely off before but it’s too late to see what it was before now.
 
I don't have my book handy and I haven't pulled the dizzy in like 20 years. Also mine is Delco the PO put in back about 1980.
It sounds to me your timing is off. As you pull the dizzy just enough to free the gear watch the rotor, and try to put it back down one tooth either way.
 
I don't have my book handy and I haven't pulled the dizzy in like 20 years. Also mine is Delco the PO put in back about 1980.
It sounds to me your timing is off. As you pull the dizzy just enough to free the gear watch the rotor, and try to put it back down one tooth either way.

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Rotate is all clockwise?
Oil pump it does t matter what way you rotate it. What you’re trying to do is get the distributor shaft to fit back into it when you drop it down.

So what happens is when you pull the distributor it rotates the oil shaft a tiny amount and you can’t re set it correctly unless you move the shaft back a hair. You can look in the hole with a flash light and see the orientation you need so the distributor will sit down in it.
 
Make 10000% sure you get the distributor set all the way down or you will burn up your motor. Make sure you check oil pressures immediately when you start it. I like to pull the coil wire and turn the motor over and make sure it’s reading pressure before starting the motor again.
 
You are not at TDC at the BB. That is 7* before. TDC is the line under the BB. If you put it on that line, your rotor will probably be pointing at #4.

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There are 2 TDC's on the a 4 stroke engine. When you reinstalled the distributor were you at top dead center on the compression stroke or on tdc on the exhaust stroke?
 
It'll run 180* out. If so then time it using #6 cyldr.
 
The op states the engine was rotated while the distributor was out. For him to reinstall it, it should be at TDC on the compression stroke. It is unclear how much the engine rotated and what he did to reinstall the distributor. In a 4 stroke engine the distributor rotates 1 time for every 2 revolutions of the crankshaft(360x2=720 degrees). Keep in mind with an engine everything is all about degrees in revolution. A spark plug fires every 120* of crank revolution. 720÷6 cylinder =120*. When #1 is on the compression stroke at tdc, #6 is at tdc on the exhaust stroke or vice versa. If it's 180 out, you can time it using #1 sparkplug wire even though #1 cylinder would be on the exhuast , but it would be more accurate using #6 wire because it will be actually firing its plug on #6's compression stroke.
 
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