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Joined
Feb 6, 2022
Threads
5
Messages
67
Location
Durango, Co
I thought I'd start a thread to document the maintenance of my '85 FJ60. I am not a mechanic, machinist or builder so perfection will not be achieved. I'm just an average Joe who lucked into a cheep 60 years ago. Practically everything that I've done was made possible by existing threads here on Mud, so thanks to those who took the time to document their work. I'll post up some older stuff and eventually get caught up to real time.

The rig

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After the initial fluid change came in inevitable birfield rebuild

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Nice stance. Is that achieved with just stock springs and the extended shackles? Are those the HFS extended shackles?
 
Nice stance. Is that achieved with just stock springs and the extended shackles? Are those the HFS extended shackles?

Lasagna Lover, I can't say for sure, it was like that when I got it. Except for the wheels and tires, I replaced the stock chrome rims and 31" dry rotted tires with the 33's. As best I can tell the original owner installed the grease-able longer shackles and springs from a Canadian company. I'd guess it's 2-2.5 lift


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After the knuckles I had to fix the drivers seat. Sitting on wire wasn't fun. I found the super affordable :rolleyes: SOR foam and covered it in this never worn drug rug. I kinda like it, it fits the character of the rugged git-er-done 4x4.


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Truck looks good as does the work. Keep at it. There’s a bunch of Cruiser guys in Durango too - I’m sure you already know that.
 
I decided to tackle some leaks: the radiator, some hoses and the timing gear cover....you know cause the radiator is out you'll have access so why not? I also replaced the water-pump, thermostat and the belts and hoses.


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That's crusty!

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Rust preventative layer of grime.
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.....The original owner/previous owner told me that the motor had been rebuilt. I had had my doubts due to the amount of leaks, but this and the WAY over torqued and locktite'd harmonic balancer nut pretty much confirmed it for me. This motor had been worked on. Now I'm no mechanic but I'm not a hack either. If you mess up, own it, fix it and move forward.

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Research said that I had to pull the cam to get the backing plate off to replace the gasket to fix the leak. I was not in a position to do this so I buttoned it back up to fix another time.
 
That timing gear rear plate gasket is a pain to replace not only does the camshaft need to come out it won't make it past the bottom of the core support. I've had to do this on a customer's 60 previous owner or whoever used the wrong bolts for the timing cover witch will bend the rear plate.
 
That timing gear rear plate gasket is a pain to replace not only does the camshaft need to come out it won't make it past the bottom of the core support. I've had to do this on a customer's 60 previous owner or whoever used the wrong bolts for the timing cover witch will bend the rear plate.


I didn't know about the core support clearance. My head would have exploded :bang: if I had somehow managed to remove the bumper by myself with a single floor jack and then still not had clearance to remove the cam! I'll fix the leak at some point, hopefully in the near future.
 
This was a first for me. When "installing" a stereo just cram the power wire behind any 10amp fuse just like the professionals do....

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and just cram the new stereo into the slot where the old one was. No need to attach it to anything. Friction will hold it in place, until it doesn't....



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WOW that was hard :hmm: (I'll replace the head unit some other time. At least I still have 6 CD's to play)


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The alternator was failing so I ordered a refurbished one. The vendor says it's OEM and cannot see a difference, refuses to authorize a return. I manage to make it work and add them to the list of vendors to never purchase from again...


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We interrupt our regularly scheduled program to bring you up to real time shenanigans. Everything WAS reassembled. I was putting in the drain plug and then all I had to do was install the inspection cover, fill with oil, put on tires and test drive. I don't know where I went wrong but the drain plug wanted with all its might to cross thread, I could not convince it to stay on the right, just, straight and narrow path to the homeland. So I went nuclear and removed everything that I had just installed so I could chase the treads from inside the axle housing (where I knew there were good threads to start the tap). Luckily my brother had the necessary 18x1.5 tap, the threads cleaned up perfect and the drain bolt threads in smooth as silk. Toyota will have a new gasket for be by the end of day tomorrow. A test drive might happen this week.... Now back to our program of maintenance past



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This was a first for me. When "installing" a stereo just cram the power wire behind any 10amp fuse just like the professionals do....

View attachment 3740571


and just cram the new stereo into the slot where the old one was. No need to attach it to anything. Friction will hold it in place, until it doesn't....



View attachment 3740575



WOW that was hard :hmm: (I'll replace the head unit some other time. At least I still have 6 CD's to play)


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I found the same situation on my 60. Power for the stereo is just a wire jammed in a fuse!! What is that little thing that you installed called? I’m sure it’s cheap and readily available from any auto parts store.
 
I found the same situation on my 60. Power for the stereo is just a wire jammed in a fuse!! What is that little thing that you installed called? I’m sure it’s cheap and readily available from any auto parts store.

This is similar to what I used. Be sure to verify the fuse type/size that you are tapping into before ordering. (google fuse tap)


 
One of the most serious leaks was from every seal, gasket and surface of the transfer case. So a rebuild was in order and I got to thinking about a re-gear. It seams that the easy days of grab a set of 62 thirds from the scrap yard for cheep to get the 4:10 gearing are long gone. So I considered re-gearing the transfer case. My "wheeling" isn't extreme but with the current setup I found myself slipping the clutch quite a bit and this makes me nervous. After all replacing the clutch in the 60 is no where near as easy or cheep as replacing the clutch in one of my bikes. After a lot of thought and a few phone calls I decided to go with a 4 to 1 reduction gear set and associated parts from Home - CruiserBrothers - https://cruiserbrothers.com/ There is some gear noise but it doesn't bother me, I don't drive on the highway much. The 3 to 1 gears may have been fine for me but I do not regret first gear low, the h55, slow and controlled crawl! I'll often be in 4 lo and 3rd gear in between obstacles which feels like 4 lo my old Tacoma.

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