No start after Clear flood mode for compression test (5 Viewers)

[raijinbu]

Hello,

I have a 1993 Land Cruiser, US model. Has anyone used Clear Flood mode to test the engine compression? Unfortunately I did and even though the compression tested good across all 6 cylinders, after putting everything back, the LC will crank but not start. The spark plugs were out of the truck during the compression test and the spark plug cables were completely disconnected as well.

I do have see the CEL with the key in the On position, no codes though.

I have checked the parts below following the manual.

battery voltage
Fusible links (my interior lights, headlights and radio work as well)
Fuel on return hose during cranking checked ok.
Fuel pump
EFI fuse
EFI relay
Igniter module (replaced recently, but checked)
Igniter coil (replaced recently, but checked)
Spark, I see a spark on plug #1
Spark plug cables have continuity

Distributor and rotor?

Last weekend, I set the crankshaft to 0, ensuring piston was at the top of the stroke. I then checked the distributor, timing was off because the rotor was pointing to the 6 o clock position. I reset the rotor, but still did not start. I am going repeat setting the crankshaft to 0 and re-check the distributor rotor again. If it's pointing south again, I may need to replace the distributor. What do you think? Thanks in advance.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Your timing is probably jacked up do you have a FSM? If not download for free in the resources section and follow the steps. Did you unplug your VAF that would prevent from starting.

 

[ajax1]

Sounds like your 180 out as in you needed to rotate again on the crank
What is clear flood mode?

 

[raijinbu]

Sounds like your 180 out as in you needed to rotate again on the crank
What is clear flood mode?

In clear flood mode, you floor the accelerator, hold it, and try to start it.

This helps measure the compression of each cylinder by preventing the fuel injectors from spraying.

 

[Fj80oregon]

In clear flood mode, you floor the accelerator, hold it, and try to start it.

This helps measure the compression of each cylinder by preventing the fuel injectors from spraying.

Next time remove the efi fuse and you won’t have power to the fuel pump

 

[jonheld]

Hello,

I have a 1993 Land Cruiser, US model. Has anyone used Clear Flood mode to test the engine compression? Unfortunately I did and even though the compression tested good across all 6 cylinders, after putting everything back, the LC will crank but not start. The spark plugs were out of the truck during the compression test and the spark plug cables were completely disconnected as well.

I do have see the CEL with the key in the On position, no codes though.

I have checked the parts below following the manual.

battery voltage
Fusible links (my interior lights, headlights and radio work as well)
Fuel on return hose during cranking checked ok.
Fuel pump
EFI fuse
EFI relay
Igniter module (replaced recently, but checked)
Igniter coil (replaced recently, but checked)
Spark, I see a spark on plug #1
Spark plug cables have continuity

Distributor and rotor?

Last weekend, I set the crankshaft to 0, ensuring piston was at the top of the stroke. I then checked the distributor, timing was off because the rotor was pointing to the 6 o clock position. I reset the rotor, but still did not start. I am going repeat setting the crankshaft to 0 and re-check the distributor rotor again. If it's pointing south again, I may need to replace the distributor. What do you think? Thanks in advance.

There is no mention of "clear flood mode" in the Toyota FSM. No idea if that is even a real thing.

DID YOU HAVE A RUNNING ENGINE BEFORE YOU ATTEMPTED ANY MAINTENANCE??

 

[Funner]

I haven’t heard of clear flood mode post carburetors, likely your timing is 180 off.

 

[TheBussman]

did you unplug or ground the coil during the compression test? if not its hard on the coil and can make them fail.

 

[raijinbu]

I used this video from Timmy the toolman as reference for the compression test.

 

[raijinbu]

did you unplug or ground the coil during the compression test? if not its hard on the coil and can make them fail.

I did unplug the coil from the distributor and its power cable. Thanks.

 

[raijinbu]

There is no mention of "clear flood mode" in the Toyota FSM. No idea if that is even a real thing.

DID YOU HAVE A RUNNING ENGINE BEFORE YOU ATTEMPTED ANY MAINTENANCE??

The engine was running, but idle was a little rough. A couple of months ago I began seen white smoke from the exhaust, not heavy, but white enough to see it. Thanks.

 

[jonheld]

The engine was running, but idle was a little rough. A couple of months ago I began seen white smoke from the exhaust, not heavy, but white enough to see it. Thanks.

OK, I can see doing a general tune up and compression test, but messing with ignition timing should not have been on the table and should not have needed to be adjusted since THE ENGINE WAS RUNNING.
Rough idle can almost always be traced back to a vacuum leak or unmetered air entering the system.
Before messing with things, were you getting any error codes?

You wrote, "Distributor and rotor?"
What does that mean? Did you replace the cap and rotor before messing with the timing?
The fact that the motor was running would eliminate the coil and igniter as trouble spots. There was no need to change them.

Do not use aftermarket parts for anything related to ignition.
Igniter 89621-16020
Ignition coil 19080-66010
Plug wire set 90919-21557
Dissy cap 19101-66010
Dissy rotor 19102-61240
Dissy cap gasket 19127-66020

 

[ZackR]

There is no mention of "clear flood mode" in the Toyota FSM. No idea if that is even a real thing.

I have not seen this mentioned either (in the FSM or otherwise) but I have used it once about 10 years ago to get my 94' to start. I was visiting family and had to re position the cruiser around the driveway multiple times in cool weather over 2-3 days and the cylinder walls were eventually washed with enough fuel to kill the compression (aka lawnmower syndrome). It would crank very rapidly but was flooded and would not start.

Holding the throttle to the floor while cranking (30 seconds) it eventually cleared out the unburnt fuel and when I let the throttle back from 100% the engine fired and roared to life with brief cloud of smoke. A long drive home (350 miles) later and it was good to go.

 

[raijinbu]

OK, I can see doing a general tune up and compression test, but messing with ignition timing should not have been on the table and should not have needed to be adjusted since THE ENGINE WAS RUNNING.
Rough idle can almost always be traced back to a vacuum leak or unmetered air entering the system.
Before messing with things, were you getting any error codes?

You wrote, "Distributor and rotor?"
What does that mean? Did you replace the cap and rotor before messing with the timing?
The fact that the motor was running would eliminate the coil and igniter as trouble spots. There was no need to change them.

Do not use aftermarket parts for anything related to ignition.
Igniter 89621-16020
Ignition coil 19080-66010
Plug wire set 90919-21557
Dissy cap 19101-66010
Dissy rotor 19102-61240
Dissy cap gasket 19127-66020

I replaced the cap and rotor when I started doing beeline maintenance about a year ago.

I have not messed with the timing. Only that in the process of troubleshooting the crank no start, I removed the dissy cap and noticed that the rotor was pointing to the 6 o clock position with the #1 cylinder at the top of the stroke and the crank set at 0 degrees.

The distributor and the rotor test, was mainly testing voltage to the dissy power connector and continuity on the dissy connector.

Thanks

 

[ThreeEyedBandit]

Did you confirm that #1 TDC was on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke when you checked? There are two TDC's with every disty rotation.

It sounds like it ran before you rotated the disty 180deg(and whatever funky is happening), so start with putting it back along with un-doing whatever else you have done.

 

[jonheld]

I have not seen this mentioned either (in the FSM or otherwise) but I have used it once about 10 years ago to get my 94' to start. I was visiting family and had to re position the cruiser around the driveway multiple times in cool weather over 2-3 days and the cylinder walls were eventually washed with enough fuel to kill the compression (aka lawnmower syndrome). It would crank very rapidly but was flooded and would not start.

Holding the throttle to the floor while cranking (30 seconds) it eventually cleared out the unburnt fuel and when I let the throttle back from 100% the engine fired and roared to life with brief cloud of smoke. A long drive home (350 miles) later and it was good to go.

Not trying to be combative in any way, but this doesn't make sense to me. How can you "flood" a running fuel injected engine?

 

[jonheld]

I replaced the cap and rotor when I started doing beeline maintenance about a year ago.

I have not messed with the timing. Only that in the process of troubleshooting the crank no start, I removed the dissy cap and noticed that the rotor was pointing to the 6 o clock position with the #1 cylinder at the top of the stroke and the crank set at 0 degrees.

The distributor and the rotor test, was mainly testing voltage to the dissy power connector and continuity on the dissy connector.

Thanks

OK, that's good. So ignition timing was not disturbed.
The distributor does not get "power". There is no +12 running to the distributor. Only the ignition coil and igniter get +12. Please download the Toyota FSM and EWD for your truck from the resources section.

If you are getting spark, then distributor, ECU, igniter, ignition coil MUST be working. It is physically impossible to develop spark without those items.

Are you getting fuel? You can bypass fuel pump logic by jumping pin 1 (FP) to pin 12 (B+) on the diagnostic connector on the firewall. The FP will fire with the key in the ON/RUN position. Only use for diagnostic purposes.

This sounds to me like you are going down some sort of primrose path. Have you checked for low hanging fruit like blown fuses? Fuses and fusible links should be checked with a meter, not your eyeballs.