No start after Clear flood mode for compression test (9 Viewers)

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Joined
Jan 19, 2024
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6
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Location
San Diego, CA
Hello,

I have a 1993 Land Cruiser, US model. Has anyone used Clear Flood mode to test the engine compression? Unfortunately I did and even though the compression tested good across all 6 cylinders, after putting everything back, the LC will crank but not start. The spark plugs were out of the truck during the compression test and the spark plug cables were completely disconnected as well.

I do have see the CEL with the key in the On position, no codes though.

I have checked the parts below following the manual.

battery voltage
Fusible links (my interior lights, headlights and radio work as well)
Fuel on return hose during cranking checked ok.
Fuel pump
EFI fuse
EFI relay
Igniter module (replaced recently, but checked)
Igniter coil (replaced recently, but checked)
Spark, I see a spark on plug #1
Spark plug cables have continuity

Distributor and rotor?

Last weekend, I set the crankshaft to 0, ensuring piston was at the top of the stroke. I then checked the distributor, timing was off because the rotor was pointing to the 6 o clock position. I reset the rotor, but still did not start. I am going repeat setting the crankshaft to 0 and re-check the distributor rotor again. If it's pointing south again, I may need to replace the distributor. What do you think? Thanks in advance.
 
Your timing is probably jacked up do you have a FSM? If not download for free in the resources section and follow the steps. Did you unplug your VAF that would prevent from starting.
 
Sounds like your 180 out as in you needed to rotate again on the crank
What is clear flood mode?
 
Sounds like your 180 out as in you needed to rotate again on the crank
What is clear flood mode?
In clear flood mode, you floor the accelerator, hold it, and try to start it.

This helps measure the compression of each cylinder by preventing the fuel injectors from spraying.
 
In clear flood mode, you floor the accelerator, hold it, and try to start it.

This helps measure the compression of each cylinder by preventing the fuel injectors from spraying.
Next time remove the efi fuse and you won’t have power to the fuel pump
 
Hello,

I have a 1993 Land Cruiser, US model. Has anyone used Clear Flood mode to test the engine compression? Unfortunately I did and even though the compression tested good across all 6 cylinders, after putting everything back, the LC will crank but not start. The spark plugs were out of the truck during the compression test and the spark plug cables were completely disconnected as well.

I do have see the CEL with the key in the On position, no codes though.

I have checked the parts below following the manual.

battery voltage
Fusible links (my interior lights, headlights and radio work as well)
Fuel on return hose during cranking checked ok.
Fuel pump
EFI fuse
EFI relay
Igniter module (replaced recently, but checked)
Igniter coil (replaced recently, but checked)
Spark, I see a spark on plug #1
Spark plug cables have continuity

Distributor and rotor?

Last weekend, I set the crankshaft to 0, ensuring piston was at the top of the stroke. I then checked the distributor, timing was off because the rotor was pointing to the 6 o clock position. I reset the rotor, but still did not start. I am going repeat setting the crankshaft to 0 and re-check the distributor rotor again. If it's pointing south again, I may need to replace the distributor. What do you think? Thanks in advance.
There is no mention of "clear flood mode" in the Toyota FSM. No idea if that is even a real thing.

DID YOU HAVE A RUNNING ENGINE BEFORE YOU ATTEMPTED ANY MAINTENANCE??
 
I haven’t heard of clear flood mode post carburetors, likely your timing is 180 off.
 
did you unplug or ground the coil during the compression test? if not its hard on the coil and can make them fail.
 
There is no mention of "clear flood mode" in the Toyota FSM. No idea if that is even a real thing.

DID YOU HAVE A RUNNING ENGINE BEFORE YOU ATTEMPTED ANY MAINTENANCE??
The engine was running, but idle was a little rough. A couple of months ago I began seen white smoke from the exhaust, not heavy, but white enough to see it. Thanks.
 
The engine was running, but idle was a little rough. A couple of months ago I began seen white smoke from the exhaust, not heavy, but white enough to see it. Thanks.
OK, I can see doing a general tune up and compression test, but messing with ignition timing should not have been on the table and should not have needed to be adjusted since THE ENGINE WAS RUNNING.
Rough idle can almost always be traced back to a vacuum leak or unmetered air entering the system.
Before messing with things, were you getting any error codes?

You wrote, "Distributor and rotor?"
What does that mean? Did you replace the cap and rotor before messing with the timing?
The fact that the motor was running would eliminate the coil and igniter as trouble spots. There was no need to change them.

Do not use aftermarket parts for anything related to ignition.
Igniter 89621-16020
Ignition coil 19080-66010
Plug wire set 90919-21557
Dissy cap 19101-66010
Dissy rotor 19102-61240
Dissy cap gasket 19127-66020
 

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