Nile Resurrection (3 Viewers)

[WarDamnEagle]

Looks like you're moving forward in multiple directions. I do the same but can't seem to finish anything.

The diff inspection cover studs are showing available btw: 90116-10107 (10)
As are the carrier studs: 90116-10103 (8) and 90116-10104 (2)

 

[ewurt]

Dont cut up da Ornch I'll buy it somehow

No plans to cut it up, I've poached the tailgate and front inner fender. Front outter fenders may go, but I have all those parts from the other one. Honestly I would feel better about giving it to someone on this thread to keep it alive. I'll keep you posted, I seem to remember you are on the wrong coast though.

 

[ewurt]

Looks like you're moving forward in multiple directions. I do the same but can't seem to finish anything.

The diff inspection cover studs are showing available btw: 90116-10107 (10)
As are the carrier studs: 90116-10103 (8) and 90116-10104 (2)

MUCH appreciated for the PN! thank you

 

[ewurt]

Nice work, looks like you are moving fast. I can't seem get more than one small item tackled at time. Great find on that winch too!

I've been saving up pictures for a year, so maybe it seems fast but I'm ready to get this thing moving! With one kid in college and two doing high school rodeo my time disappears faster than I want. Oh yeah, work gets in the way too.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

No problem. Those are for the rear housing. The front housing uses the same parts and quantity for the diff housing:

43600A	BOLT, STUD (FOR FRONT AXLE DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER SETTING)
90116-10103	L=37, S=12 & 25, L=37, S=12&25	8
90116-10104	L=50, S=12 & 18, L=50, S=12&18	2

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Everyone has opinions on locking differentials so I might as well add mine to the mix. I'm a selectable guy so no Detroit, or Lock-Rite or whatever for me. I would probably look at the Harrop e-locker if I wanted to lock my rear diff.

 

[PabloCruise]

In for a penny in for a pound, found a 72 parts rig a few hours away. My 16 yo son at the time drove me and the flatbed over to the west side through I5 traffic and got this home in a day. It has 5 factory rims, a disc brake front axel, the whole rig was full of 4x, 5x,and 6x parts, and most importantly it has the tailgate handle. From what I have read what I paid for the parts car would have been equal to the rear handle. The guy who sold it to me is a LC guy through and through. Used to race 40s in some fashion and has a show quality 45 in his shop. That was a fun tour.
View attachment 3940639
After charging the battery checking the oil etc, we got the 73 running. Blew out a mouse Hilton from the exhaust upon start, drove it a mile or so to pave spun around and made it home, that was about all she had. Sputtering pretty bad. Ran a compression test.
View attachment 3940641
Pulled the valve cover.
View attachment 3940640
Head to the machine shop. I'm lucky to have a legend of a machinist here in town. When I did my 40 I found him, and he has owned several himself. This guy is amazing.
View attachment 3940642
Every seal on this thing was wet, so it was an easy call at this point to yard the rest out, patch it closed with gaskets and see how far she goes.
View attachment 3940643

What is up with that exhaust valve on #6?

 

[ewurt]

What is up with that exhaust valve on #6?

Machine shop redid all valves and springs. When I popped off the lifter cover the corresponding lifter was more resistant to movement than the rest. I bought one off maybe Rock Auto, and tried it in, and it slid freely. My thought was it got too much heat back there? Machinist thought that was a good plan. I'll let you know when it fires back up.

 

[BoomerUZ]

man there really is two kinds of people lol watchin all this fancy POR and rebuild everything. meanwhile I got that Ace hardware rust stop spray paint and paintin over mud and whatnot lol

 

[ewurt]

man there really is two kinds of people lol watchin all this fancy POR and rebuild everything. meanwhile I got that Ace hardware rust stop spray paint and paintin over mud and whatnot lol

The majority of what I use is Ace brand Rust Stop rattle can. I bought a six pack of the little cans of POR and I'm using them up.

 

[ewurt]

First time running through a diff, took several attempts to dial it in but I think I'm there. 20 in/lb on the rotation of pinion, 16-22 per OTRAM on YouTube is the goal, 0.007" backlash, and the pattern looked ok to me. I used a Sierra bearing kit and it came with examples of acceptable patterns and I think this will ride. Thoughts?

Keepers were put in after the pic.

 

[ewurt]

I pulled all the studs and replaced. Three came out on removal, several threads were messed up and one was mushroomed so I replaced them thanks to the part number @WarDamnEagle gave me. I chased the threads before placing the new ones, and there was a lot more resistance than I was expecting.

Cones of shame on puppies that want to help make things interesting. I'm hoping dog hair proves to be some sort of benefit to diffs bc its everywhere.

This is the 40 but I'll do the exact same thing on the 55 when the time comes.

 

[J Mack]

Sierra bearing kit Thoughts?

Did you use their pinion crush sleeve?
How much horse torques do you have?

 

[ewurt]

The pinion has that machined shoulder. I used the exact same dimension shims that came out of the old one on the pinion race and pinion shaft. The horse torques were around 100 ft lbs, I know this is light but the pinion torsion was good.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I used a gasket scraper followed by a stiff nylon pad on the side grinder to clean the flange surface. I then ran a hex head bolt through all the holes to clean them out followed by some brake cleaner before installing the studs. I also noticed considerable variability between the torque required to install the studs. I think there is some variability in the amount of sealant used on the threads which may contribute to the difference between studs. Still, there's nothing better than new parts when you're putting something back together.