Builds Nijas98hundie build thread

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Picked up a set of metal tech rear LCA’s and some extended travel radflos for up front.
 
Installed the nitro UCA’s and radflos. This is not where the reservoir ended up.
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Had a good opportunity to deploy the arb warning room. We were able to capture to cab heat by rolling the passenger windows down and partially unzipping the rear tent panel. We didn’t sleep with the truck running, but at 5* it was sure nice to get some quick heat in the morning.
 
View attachment 1705418 View attachment 1705419 View attachment 1705420 After plunging into Goose Creek in Fayetteville TN, I decided to make a huge hole in my passenger fender and stick a tube in it.

Also the rear locker wouldn’t engage so I pulled it apart to find the magnets in the motor were broke. I took the biggest chunk of magnet and epoxied it back in the case and it’s been working fine for the last couple years
I realize this post is 8 months old, but I was curious about your rear locker magnet fix. Did you remove the entire actuator or is it possible to just remove the protection plate and just remove the 3 screws on the armature cover to check the magnets? I'm trying to diagnose my issue (light flashing but not engaging) with the easiest steps first then on to the more difficult steps. Thanks
 
I realize this post is 8 months old, but I was curious about your rear locker magnet fix. Did you remove the entire actuator or is it possible to just remove the protection plate and just remove the 3 screws on the armature cover to check the magnets? I'm trying to diagnose my issue (light flashing but not engaging) with the easiest steps first then on to the more difficult steps. Thanks
You have to remove the entire locker assembly. Repairing the motor was not that difficult, but getting the actuator rod adjusted was a pita.
 
Interested hear your thoughts on the radflo's when you get some miles.
So, I’ve had the radflos for 5k Miles now and they’ve been great. Way smoother than the ome’s (no surprise). No issues whatsoever and the extra droop has helped me up some more challenging trails.
 
Installed a Tundra antenna and base to replace the stock motorized mast that was promptly ripped of by a limb. Followed DFXR’s write up and it was a piece of cake!
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I need to do that Mod! where did you buy your parts from?
 
So, I’ve had the radflos for 5k Miles now and they’ve been great. Way smoother than the ome’s (no surprise). No issues whatsoever and the extra droop has helped me up some more challenging trails.

I always thought the front droop was limited by the A arm, how much extra droop were you able to get out of the Radflos? Trying to decide on shocks for mine...
 
I need to do that Mod! where did you buy your parts from?
I ordered the antenna base from amazon and and got the mast from a friend who had changed his out.
 
I always thought the front droop was limited by the A arm, how much extra droop were you able to get out of the Radflos? Trying to decide on shocks for mine...
I gues in theory the A arm can droop 90 degrees if everything attached to it were disconnected. When you pull the front suspension, you’ll notice that the travel is much longer with the shocks removed. These are extended length over stock or the ome’s I had previously. I can’t remember my exact measurements not, but I think it gave me roughly 2” more travel. I can definitely tell off road or when trying to jack up the truck.
 

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