Next step help (1 Viewer)

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Apr 8, 2017
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I’m back again in need of sound advice. My ‘78 FJ40 has been sitting up for about 2 years as I have slowly been working on it. What started as a minor rust repair has turned into a bigger job then I imagined. Anyway, where I’m at....
I’m trying to get it running. It cranks but won’t turn over. In testing the fuel pump (works perfectly) I realized I forgot to drain the old fuel from between the fuel pump to the carb. I’ve been cranking the engine trying different fixes, when I realized this, so I definitely got the old fuel into the carb and engine. I have since detached the fuel line from the carb and pumped out the old fuel in the line. Unfortunately, the engine still won’t turn over and I’m fretting ready to throw a wrench at it. What should I do next? Engine starter didn’t work when I tried with fresh fuel and used it. Open to suggestions. I don’t want to have to rebuild the carb.... (fingers crossed)
Thank you!
 
Joined
Apr 21, 2005
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19,903
Cranking and turning over are the same thing. If it cranks the engine turns over. If the starter makes a sound but the engine doesn't spin that would be something else. Does the engine rotate is the first question answered would help figure out what is going on.
 
Joined
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Check the fuel level in the carb. Should be at the dot in the site glass.

You may need to pour some gas into the carb to get it started (assumes you have spark).
 
Joined
Apr 8, 2017
Messages
11
Location
Central Texas
Thank you for your help! Forgive my incorrect wordin. When I turn the key, I see the fan turn and it sounds like it’s close to running. I have put in new spark plugs and wires and did have spark. I know there is fuel going into the carb but haven’t actually checked the site glass. To be honest, I didn’t even know there was even one on it. Will try and clean off the outside to locate it. I haven’t messed with the timing but my cruiser was running before I pulled the gas tank to get to the rust. Now that I am thinking more about the spark, I haven’t checked for spark since I put the new water pump on. Maybe I loosened a wire somewhere. I will double check and let you know.
Just wondering something, if there was low fuel in the carb, wouldn’t the starting fluid have been enough to fire the engine a little and then die. Or would the bad/no fuel have prevented that?
Thanks so much again
 
Joined
May 16, 2010
Messages
118
you need a friend to turn the key, check for spark at the plugs. do you know how to check for spark there?
if not, post here.
if you have spark, then check to see if you have fuel in the site glass. if yes, then take off the lid to air cleaner and see if you can smell gas there. I assume you have the carb choked. post results and we will move to next steps. sounds like a pretty easy fix, I could be wrong, but it was running. worst case, you dislodged a bunch of junk in the gas tank replacement and now it is clogging fuel delivery, but it would at least try to kick off...

fuel
spark
timing
compression
post

repeat
 

thebigredrocker

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If you had spark, the starting fluid should have been enough to make it briefly fire. Can also rig up a used water bottle to squirt fuel with a couple pin holes in cap.

If you still have old fuel between tank and carb. Unhook line at carb, place fuel line in a catch bucket, crank for 15 seconds or so. Repeat until fresh fuel flows. Also look for a clogged screen at the carb inlet. While fuel hose is removed spray carb cleaner through the inlet. Don't over tighten the fuel inlet hose. Seen some inlet threads get stripped. Next, Remove idle mix screw facing the valve cover, hold carb primary wide open by hand and squirt cleaner into idle mix hole. Run idle mix screw all the way in but stop when you feel it bottom out. Reefing on it at as the needle bottoms out can damage the needle tip. Now back mix screw out 3 1/2 turns.

Make sure the idle fuel cutoff solenoid clicks when key is turned to the ON position. IOW, you should hear a click right before you commence the cranking.

Make sure the distributor if fully seated. As it spins the tip turns the oil pump. If not properly re-seated your engine can start but you won't get oil flow. Pretty common to hear about seized engines due to this oversight.
 

Dizzy

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If fuel ever goes dry in the bowl, consider the fuel to become varnish in the carb. I had a brand-new carb, bolted it on for a week, stored it for a year, took it apart, and spent quality time cleaning it. I should have just disassembled it before I stored it. A whole bunch of folks talk about Pin Head's video on YouTube for instruction. With experience, I can have my carb removed from the truck, disassembled, put together, and installed back on the truck in an hour(ish).
 
Joined
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Messages
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Central Texas
I lost spark! I checked the resistor and had ohms in range. My grounds look good. Distributer cap looks clean....

.... and Dizzy, I’m impressed with 1 hour to rebuild your carb!
 

Dizzy

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So, a non-electronic ignition will burn a coil out if the key is left in the "On" position without the distributor rotor turning, IIAC.
 
Joined
Apr 8, 2017
Messages
11
Location
Central Texas
If you had spark, the starting fluid should have been enough to make it briefly fire. Can also rig up a used water bottle to squirt fuel with a couple pin holes in cap.

If you still have old fuel between tank and carb. Unhook line at carb, place fuel line in a catch bucket, crank for 15 seconds or so. Repeat until fresh fuel flows. Also look for a clogged screen at the carb inlet. While fuel hose is removed spray carb cleaner through the inlet. Don't over tighten the fuel inlet hose. Seen some inlet threads get stripped. Next, Remove idle mix screw facing the valve cover, hold carb primary wide open by hand and squirt cleaner into idle mix hole. Run idle mix screw all the way in but stop when you feel it bottom out. Reefing on it at as the needle bottoms out can damage the needle tip. Now back mix screw out 3 1/2 turns.

Make sure the idle fuel cutoff solenoid clicks when key is turned to the ON position. IOW, you should hear a click right before you commence the cranking.

Make sure the distributor if fully seated. As it spins the tip turns the oil pump. If not properly re-seated your engine can start but you won't get oil flow. Pretty common to hear about seized engines due to this oversight.
Great information. Really appreciate the step by step. I missed your reply earlier but going to follow your advice tomorrow.
 

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