New with no Clue (1 Viewer)

[pappy]

What all is needed? The fork, throwout bearing and boot?

You will also need the hub/clip. The TO bearing seats in the hub, and the hub mounts in the fork.

Yes, you should be able to row the gears.

 

[Spduffee]

Eeee...I was afraid you'd say that. Maybe because there's no throwout installed....?
Thanks for the hub and clip info.

 

[pappy]

Eeee...I was afraid you'd say that. Maybe because there's no throwout installed....?
Thanks for the hub and clip info.

The transmission should shift with, or without a clutch, attached to the engine, or sitting on the floor. I'm digging deep here. You said the transmission didn't have a shifter. I seem to recall when I installed my new transmission the reverse fork moved in transit. This kept the tranny from shifting. Sure wish I could remember what the solution was. I think it had to do with removing the backup switch and using a screw driver to move the fork (to the rear?).

 

[pappy]

You will also need the hub/clip. The TO bearing seats in the hub, and the hub mounts in the fork.

Note that there are several flavors of the clutch hub and spring. I seem to recall they interchange. In this drawing 31231A is the bearing, 31231 is the hub, 31232 the clips (specific to the hub?), 31230 is the bearing and hub as one part number and listed as 1989+.

 

[Spduffee]

The transmission should shift with, or without a clutch, attached to the engine, or sitting on the floor. I'm digging deep here. You said the transmission didn't have a shifter. I seem to recall when I installed my new transmission the reverse fork moved in transit. This kept the tranny from shifting. Sure wish I could remember what the solution was. I think it had to do with removing the backup switch and using a screw driver to move the fork (to the rear?).

Pappy you're a blessing! That did it!
Thank you!

 

[Spduffee]

Note that there are several flavors of the clutch hub and spring. I seem to recall they interchange. In this drawing 31231A is the bearing, 31231 is the hub, 31232 the clips (specific to the hub?), 31230 is the bearing and hub as one part number and listed as 1989+.


View attachment 2461442

Thanks again. This what I was looking for.

 

[Spduffee]

Hi All!
I had to take some time off to do some day-job work, but am happy to report the new setup is in and running.
I ask for two tips, please:
1) oil is making its way between the head and timing chain cover, front passenger corner. Besides tearing it all down, is there an easy way to stop that leak?
2) Any tips on valve adjustment? In order to correct the PO's timing chain debacle I had to loosen the valves. Now I need to adjust back to specs. I have the service manual, just looking for any wise tips that Toyota didn't write.
Thank you very much for helping a non-Toyota person figure it all out!

 

[Toast]

Marlin has a valve timing trick that makes it easier. Something along the lines of marking your upper chain sprocket @ 12,3,6 & 9 O’clock and turning to each spot to allow a certain formation of valves to open. Go to his site, I may be a little off. Just helps cut down uncertainty and time. Also, Toyota’s FIPG does wonders.... I’ve seen it fix leaks by surface application. Definitely hack but it works. Good luck!

 

[Spduffee]

Thanks again Toast! That's all done now, too. The one bolt that holds the head to the cover (hidden by the distributor cam gear) was, like me, just short of being screwed in tight. No more oil leak...

Now a new problem. Getting it to run after starting is a pain. If I start it with my foot on the gas it'll start and run, but won't idle. I am guessing it's a carburetor adjust issue (although I took the owner's manifold and carb as one unit off and put it on this engine).
Bigger problem is that it won't go into gear while running.
The replacement engine had a clutch- and pressure plate attached, so I thought it would be OK, but maybe not.
I started with bleeding the clutch juice. Still no reaction, so I am assuming the clutch plate or pressure plate.
The throwout bearing I was asking about eventually came from the owner's old transmission. It worked before, so I have to assume it still does. Anything else? Here I thought I was rounding third base and about to get this thing outta my driveway, but I guess not.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Take Care!

 

[Toast]

Rock auto. New Aisin clutch master and slave. $40 bucks or something ridiculously cheap like that. Don’t even mess around with old junk. New fluid and bleed it good. Make sure you don’t have any vacuum leaks. Use some starting fluid or brake clean and spray around your intake. Look and see if your mixture screw has been drilled out to allow adjustments. 3 1/2 or 4 turns out from in is factory. Check your fuel pump and pressure. Those mechanical pumps always gave me issues. Hope this helps

 

[Spduffee]

Thanks.
I have all but one block/bell bolt out, radiator back out, mounting bolts out and ready to pull it again. I stopped for the night and read your reply.
If the clutch cylinder is bad would it still work or does it just not have the oomph it should have? The muscle memory of my neighbor isn't so good. As we were bleeding the clutch I asked if it felt the same as before. He didn't know...

 

[Toast]

They wear out over time and stop working as well. Also if your fluid is moisture logged then it increases the problem even more. Hard to say with out being there but it’s a good idea to start with new parts since they are cheap. I’ve seen a clutch slave work upon initial push but instantly bleed by and failing to push the clutch lever. If you’re pulling your engine, it’s always a good time to replace you’re clutch soft line on the lower passenger firewall. It’s a PITA to swap with the engine in place. Consider a stainless braided but I’m not the one paying the bills at your place so you gotta make the call.

 

[Spduffee]

Thank you. I'll start with the cylinders as they are available locally this morning. I'm not sure what you mean about the soft line. I have only seen the metal tubing but I'll take a look.

 

[Spduffee]

Hi all!
I changed out the master and slave clutch cylinders and wow! Thanks!
Still won't stay running without gas pedaling.
I found this picture online. None of these do-dads are hooked up anywhere on my project. The two lines on the right hand thingy and the one line on the left hand thingy have no hoses attached. What are they and where do they connect to?
Thanks!

 

[Toast]

Pretty sure that’s an A/C idle up but I can’t remember anymore...

 

[Spduffee]

Dang, I was hoping it was the big clue I was looking for.
Where is the fuel cut solenoid valve? From the manual it looks like the one with the hose and single wire going to the green connector.
And supposedly there's a connector or device that affects idle at the driver's kickplate? Do I have to remove the plastic cover to see that?

 

[Spduffee]

Here is a video link. Hopefully you can view it...



I pump gas 1 time.
Engine starts at 2100 rpm. Is constant for a couple of seconds then drops, drops more, then sputters and dies.