Cruisintiger may have the right idea, I had a Datsun 510 many years ago that would not run right for the life of me. I tried everything ,plugs, wires, carb etc. took to a mech who told me it had to be the dizzy as that was all that was left undone. The car ran great after that. Hope you get it fixed soon!
New Trollhole carb and still not running right, step by step?
- Thread starter Chocolyle
- Start date
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I have an extra Trollhole dizzy with the small cap (he got these by mistake and later sent me the large cap dizzy), but it will work fine in there. Brand new in box. I'll prob never use it. OP, it is yours for the shipping cost. PM me your address if you think you need it. My only request is you pay it forward to some other needy mudder later if it works for you.
- Thread starter
- #44
I have a person who used to work for Toyota coming this weekend to see whats going on. I will try to check the solenoid now. I understand what you are saying but I can not find the cause. Do you think the carb is bad? Also why and I getting so much fuel in the engine, wet plugs but I do not see fuel coming out of the main jets?
I think the idle fuel is part of the problem but I am not getting full ignition on all cylinders.
Can you suggest some other ways or items to check? This is new to me and is starting to make sense. Thanks.
- Thread starter
- #45
I will try the Dizzy and then at least know what is working on the ignition side. As I said above I think I have multiple issues going on.
With the Weber we could drive it and it had a very bad flat spot low to mid throttle engine cold, fully warmed and a flat spot hesitation mid throttle, low to the high side.
It idled okay but it was at 800RPMs. Choke was non existent. With the TrollHole it will just not run and is not drivable at all. I really do not want the Weber, the one time we went off road, yes very lightly one the smallest incline it started to stall out. They seem to be more trouble than they are worth.
- Thread starter
- #47
I will check again on the manifold.
Give me a buzz. It's possible the idle solenoid or passage is plugged. Also could be a vac leak. Have you tried spraying carb cleaner around the manifold area and see if you get in change in speed?
Any shaft wobble in the dizzy? Timing set at around 10 degrees BTDC?
8644140563
Any shaft wobble in the dizzy? Timing set at around 10 degrees BTDC?
8644140563
- Thread starter
- #49
I finally had some time tonight to look at it. I pulled the dizzy and cleaned it out. I just put it back in and now see where the bushing goes. The plastic is gone so I will pop it back out. I lubed up the breaker plate and it now spins freely. The screw snapped of in the body for the cap will not budge. Everything else looks good.
When I pulled all of the spark plugs to turn the engine to TDC per FSM I noticed that half of the brand new plugs are black and half are clean, well half clean, one fully clean. ??????????????? One plug wire, connector broke on the plug, Cyl-1 which spark plug was black. I will have a new set of wires tomorrow along with cap and rotor. Can I assume I am miss-firing now and blame it one wires, cap and rotor??
For black plugs versus clean it was not every other, 1 BLK, 2 CLN, 3CLN, 4 BLK, 5 BLK and 6 the cleanest. Other thoughts?
TrollHole, I tried calling and left a VM earlier this week, PinHead had me do a couple trouble shooting items on the carb. What is the procedure to check the idle jet for blockage? Just remove the idle mixture screw needle and the solenoid, spray, clean out with air and repeat?
When I pulled all of the spark plugs to turn the engine to TDC per FSM I noticed that half of the brand new plugs are black and half are clean, well half clean, one fully clean. ??????????????? One plug wire, connector broke on the plug, Cyl-1 which spark plug was black. I will have a new set of wires tomorrow along with cap and rotor. Can I assume I am miss-firing now and blame it one wires, cap and rotor??
For black plugs versus clean it was not every other, 1 BLK, 2 CLN, 3CLN, 4 BLK, 5 BLK and 6 the cleanest. Other thoughts?
TrollHole, I tried calling and left a VM earlier this week, PinHead had me do a couple trouble shooting items on the carb. What is the procedure to check the idle jet for blockage? Just remove the idle mixture screw needle and the solenoid, spray, clean out with air and repeat?
Unless the 3 clean plugs were changed recently, they are very strange. The black ones are very rich and the 3 clean ones are very lean or there may be water leaking in the combustion chamber, which is very unlikely.
This looks like more evidence for a really bad manifold gasket problem that you should be able to find by spraying carb cleaner or propane gas around the sealing surface.
If the black plugs are oily, they could be misfiring too. What is the compression?
This looks like more evidence for a really bad manifold gasket problem that you should be able to find by spraying carb cleaner or propane gas around the sealing surface.
If the black plugs are oily, they could be misfiring too. What is the compression?
- Thread starter
- #51
I still need to do the compression test, I will grab a gauge tomorrow when I pick up the wires. All 6 plugs were replaced after the new TH carb. None are oily, just flat black soot like poor combustion or rich fuel. I have someone who works on cars a lot and used to work for toyota, he says he knows a fair amount about the 2F. We will check the manifold again. Thank you.
- Thread starter
- #52
Compression test dry:
1-155
2-150
3-160
4-150
5-140
6-155
1-155
2-150
3-160
4-150
5-140
6-155
- Thread starter
- #53
So I swapped the cap, rotor and plug wires, same. I guess next up is to buy new gaskets, unless someone has another idea?
So to be clear, with the Weber 32/36 is ran once warmed up okay with a bad flat spot but drove down the highway, roads okay. I put on the new TH carb and it idles terrible, smells of gas and when I hit the accelerator large clouds of black smoke comes out. Can't even back it in the driveway. I have sprayed carb cleaner all over the place and there is no difference but it is also idling terribly.
Also here is a couple pics off of the header to the manifold, what are these for? Needed?? Also EGR internals are removed, Should I still have this hose connection to the canister? Could this be my intake air leakage?
Any recommendations on the gasket, vendor, and also should I just plan on buying two to double up?
Marshall, no wobble in the shaft of the dizzy, it cleaned up well. Spins freely, the only thing I "may" question is the signal generator. Its there a way to test it?
For the carb, the solenoid does not stall the engine when I disconnect it, no change at all. If I close, turn all the way in, the idle mixture no change. I have a feeling it is clogged, how could I confirm this?
So to be clear, with the Weber 32/36 is ran once warmed up okay with a bad flat spot but drove down the highway, roads okay. I put on the new TH carb and it idles terrible, smells of gas and when I hit the accelerator large clouds of black smoke comes out. Can't even back it in the driveway. I have sprayed carb cleaner all over the place and there is no difference but it is also idling terribly.
Also here is a couple pics off of the header to the manifold, what are these for? Needed?? Also EGR internals are removed, Should I still have this hose connection to the canister? Could this be my intake air leakage?
Any recommendations on the gasket, vendor, and also should I just plan on buying two to double up?
Marshall, no wobble in the shaft of the dizzy, it cleaned up well. Spins freely, the only thing I "may" question is the signal generator. Its there a way to test it?
For the carb, the solenoid does not stall the engine when I disconnect it, no change at all. If I close, turn all the way in, the idle mixture no change. I have a feeling it is clogged, how could I confirm this?
- Thread starter
- #55
Should I just remove all of them including the EGR and cap them?
- Thread starter
- #57
Is that the real purpose of them? Any benefit to having the old EGR connection to the canister?
- Thread starter
- #59
It has been a while since I have had some time and ambition. I pulled the new TH carb and pulled the top section off, following the FSM for locations I pulled out the jets one at a time and sprayed carb cleaner through to see that all passages were clear including the solenoid passages and idle mixture screw passages. All were clear and nothing came out on the towels I had.
So I pulled of the intake manifold and took some pictures. I'm not seeing anything jump out at me as a potential leak area but maybe someone else can.
A couple questions on the nuts and washers that tighten it down, should the washers be doubled up? The nut hits the manifold before it hits the washer. Not in the machined out part. Would it hurt to double them up to make sure when it goes back on with a new gasket it is tight and sealed.
Also do you need to pull the power steering pump bracket to get the header off? I was trying to avoid disconnecting the header to exhaust pipe. Not a big deal but I didn't start working on it till after 8 tonight and it is dark.
I will double check the hoses next time out there, for the EGR, I will probably just buy the solid plate cover and remove the hose connection. I did notice that the brake booster hose was pretty loose too, on there but popped right off with little effort.
So I pulled of the intake manifold and took some pictures. I'm not seeing anything jump out at me as a potential leak area but maybe someone else can.
A couple questions on the nuts and washers that tighten it down, should the washers be doubled up? The nut hits the manifold before it hits the washer. Not in the machined out part. Would it hurt to double them up to make sure when it goes back on with a new gasket it is tight and sealed.
Also do you need to pull the power steering pump bracket to get the header off? I was trying to avoid disconnecting the header to exhaust pipe. Not a big deal but I didn't start working on it till after 8 tonight and it is dark.
I will double check the hoses next time out there, for the EGR, I will probably just buy the solid plate cover and remove the hose connection. I did notice that the brake booster hose was pretty loose too, on there but popped right off with little effort.
It is hard to say if the gasket is leaking by just looking at it, but since you have it off, you may as well put a new Remflex gasket on it. The Remflex will seal even if the flange is warped. Make sure that the solenoid flows too when the power is on.