New Trollhole carb and still not running right, step by step? (1 Viewer)

[Chocolyle]

Please note, this is all new for me, I have never worked on a carb for a vehicle. I can figure stuff out but this is not something I have done now have I ever had a vehicle like the FJ.

As you will see in my last posting I am having a H--- of a time getting this 2F running. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . right or just running smooth. I spent a small fortune at a local hotrod shop and they could not get it right, I ended up learning how to adjust a carb, timing, needle adjustments and got it running better but not great. So I decided to buy a Trollhole carb since that kept coming up as the be all answer.

Truck arrived to me with a Weber 32/36 from Lilopad. It ran fine when we got it and then I fueled it with 93 Octane, that is when we noticed it did not want to run one morning. That is when it went to the shop above for 3-4 weeks. With the 32/36, it would run but there is a really bad sputter in-between the low and high, when cold it did not want to drive at all unless you floored it. Then when you shut it off it would burn off the extra fuel sometimes for about 2-5 seconds. Timing was set where the BB was just before the line, it seemed to be best there. So it ran but really rich. I followed a very good step by step on setting the Weber and it got things better but still had the sputter etc. Ideas adjustment on it did nothing though. Idle would go up with the timing but that was it.

So the Trollhole carb is installed and manual choke was re-installed, It starts and runs but runs very rough. It idles okay with the choke pulled out tot he first notch while in higher RPM but the engine is shaking . The exhaust is gas smelling and semi smokey. Once fully warmed up I can drop the choke and it is idling at about 650RPM but it is very rough, same gas smell and smoking.

I found the form: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ru...e-carb-and-dizzy-install.768565/#post-8777572

I went through the steps listed. If I turned the Dizzy all the way counter clockwise it ran better but not smooth. still gas smelling and smokey. I sprayed around the base of the carb and nothing changed in idle.

I now pulled the cap of the Dizzy, checked TDC 7* BB and it looks right. When I did this I pulled the plugs all but one came out real easy, #3 threads look fine but is was a bear to get out. All 6 plugs are BLACK soot, assuming from previous carb.

I am at the point of giving up on this truck. We love the truck but just want it running right. I have had some great help and have read great posts but I really need some step by step help.

 

[Chocolyle]

PS I do have both FSM's for the truck, some is a little greek to me.

 

[MyTwoToys]

I would work with Troll Hole, they have a great reputation and should be able to point you in the right direction. I am no master mechanic myself but think you should be able to get this figured out with some help. ALSO, Check out the Yankee Toys Clubhouse section in the forums. The President of our club is about 30 minutes from you and can hook you up with the right folks as well. Hang in there.

 

[antFJ]

what's the fuel level in the sight glass at idle?

 

[Chocolyle]

Fuel is just below half and does not change.

 

[Chocolyle]

I would work with Troll Hole, they have a great reputation and should be able to point you in the right direction. I am no master mechanic myself but think you should be able to get this figured out with some help. ALSO, Check out the Yankee Toys Clubhouse section in the forums. The President of our club is about 30 minutes from you and can hook you up with the right folks as well. Hang in there.

I can not find the membership sign-up form on the page. I just signed up for the TLCA about a month ago.

 

[Chocolyle]

I can not find the membership sign-up form on the page. I just signed up for the TLCA about a month ago.

Found it, just signed up. Thank you.

 

[MyTwoToys]

If you have any issues yodafrick is the President. Start a conversation with him if you need anything. How are you coming on the carb issue? Any progress? I run a 2F from a 1985 FJ-60 in my FJ-40 and also have the Weber and it seems to run fine for me.

 

[Chocolyle]

I have my wives aunt is coming over tomorrow to see if she can figure out what is going on. I will reach out to yodafrick if we can't get it right. I just put everything back together and it still runs terrible, almost like it is misfiring. Lots of unburnt gas/smoke coming out.

Prior with the Weber it didn't have any power cold till it hit the high side and once fully warmed it had a less pronounced but there flat spot from low to high. Shut it off and it would run for a few seconds. Still smelled like unburnt gas but not as much. Lately it started to stall once in a while at stop lights, couldn't repeat it though.

The electric choke on the Weber did nothing. I like the Trollhole/factory manual choke now that I have it back in and connected. Like my 85 Deere you have some control.

New plugs will be in tomorrow, the old ones are really soot covered.

Thanks.

 

[Chocolyle]

So we looked at it today and adjustments to the carb did not make a difference. We checked spark plug wires some make the loud snap others do not. Upon retesting less made the snap snap. Metered out the wires and they are all with in spec, coil findings based on the FSM 8-6:
Fig 8-12 Igniter 1 12.4 VDC
Fig 8-13 12.4
Fig 8-14 okay, we have no idea what we are looking for, Check the power transistor ON condition. Disconnect the wiring connector from dist. Using dry cell etc etc. Um thats it???
Fig 8-15 Same voltage . . . crap, my bad I see.
Fig 8-16 1.3-1.5 Ohms Checked multiple times though most times it would not stabilize weather key is on or off open to 2m Ohms
Fig 8-17 14k

The coil looks very old and it had been painted.

Any thoughts?

 

[CruisinTiger]

Yeah definitely get with Marshall and he'll help ya out. I will tell you that he has been in and out of the hospital the past two weeks so he may be a little slow responding to you, so give him a little time. Also check your spark plugs, they have to be toyota spark plugs. I made the mistake many years ago of buying another brand and put them in and the cruiser ran like hell, so I was talking with a club member who was also the parts manager at the dealership and I learned that for whatever reason a 2f doesn't like a non toyota spark plug. You also mentioned your coil, if in doubt replace it too. And replace the wires too, then you've narrowed down the problem. Check the compression of each cylinder, if you don't have a tester you should be able to rent one from the local parts store. Good luck and keep at it, you'll get her purring soon!

 

[Chocolyle]

So I put a new coil in it, made a difference but still runs like garbage!!!!!!!!! I have the timing , dizzy, turned all the way counter clock wise better, but still rough. If I turn it past the half way point out of the carb it starts popping. If I turn the, I think idle mixture all the way in it keeps running, little worse but not much. Bring the RPMs to 1k by turning the idle speed screw and it ideas smooth but will not drive. Rev it and it needs to clear out a bunch of black smoke.

Something is majorly wrong with this truck and I am out of ideas. I would throw in the towel at this point but who is gonna buy a truck that does not run?

It's not the carb, this truck has been an on going issue, it seems multiple things are wrong and I came into the middle of it. Looks pretty runs like crap. I am just beyond frustrated and out of ideas.

 

[Hank6760]

Have you checked firing order? Just a thought

 

[Chocolyle]

Yeah, even tried moving each one forward in case tooth was off. Wouldn't even start that way. The old coil was defiantly bad, new one made a difference..

Tomorrow or so I am going to look at the air gap in the dizzy. Probably rent a compression gauge too. Something is way off or broke but I can not find steps to start trouble shooting. The FSM's are not much help either. I am wondering if maybe when the PO did the de-smogg something was not done right, I have looked at the diagrams from Jim C but it is Frelingiish to me. I have don't have one to refineries from.

It would be a huge help to have someone that knows this vehicle local to look at it with me.

 

[Chocolyle]

Have you checked firing order? Just a thought

Thanks by the way.

 

[NCFJ]

1-5-3-6-2-4 firing order

 

[jawjatek]

I do not think one tooth off on distributor means "moving each one forward in case tooth was off" will work. Since it kinda runs with the dist twisted all the way, it does seem to me you might still be off one tooth. Try moving dist one tooth either way and see what happens. Worth a try! The FSM has good info on installing and setting the distributor. Make sure you are not off by one rev when you set the engine to TDC #1, because there are two times the cyl is at TDC, exhaust and compression, and you need to be at TDC on the compression stroke (both #1 valves closed, pressure felt on finger in spark plug hole as you turn to TDC). It really sounds like ignition timing and not the carb to me. HTH

 

[onemanarmy]

adjust the valves? New spark plugs?

 

[Pin_Head]

That is a very high kvetching to problem explaining ratio, but I think that you are saying that it idles poorly and stumbles during acceleration off idle and it stinks like gasoline when it is iding in your garage.

If this is correct, then it sounds like a manifold vacuum leak, which is a well known problem area for these engines. This makes it too lean to idle, so you have to increase the idle speed so it will run off the main jets. The misfiring is why it stinks of gasoline. Running rich makes carbon monoxide, which is odorless.

Don't screw around with the ignition because it does not cause this type of problem.

If you see gas dripping from the main nozzles, then it isn't idling. This is either because of a manifold vacuum leak or lack of idle fuel inside the carb. To see if you have idle fuel, disconnect the idle cut off solenoid while idling and if it stalls, then it is getting fuel and the problem is likely to be a manifold vacuum leak. You can't just spray a little carb cleaner around the base of the carb where it is easy to get to. You have to get it underneath where the manifold joins the head and check for cracks and a bad vacuum booster and anything else that connects to the manifold.

The spark plug looks normal although it is out of focus.

 

[Chocolyle]

That is a very high kvetching to problem explaining ratio, but I think that you are saying that it idles poorly and stumbles during acceleration off idle and it stinks like gasoline when it is iding in your garage.

If this is correct, then it sounds like a manifold vacuum leak, which is a well known problem area for these engines. This makes it too lean to idle, so you have to increase the idle speed so it will run off the main jets. The misfiring is why it stinks of gasoline. Running rich makes carbon monoxide, which is odorless.

Don't screw around with the ignition because it does not cause this type of problem.

If you see gas dripping from the main nozzles, then it isn't idling. This is either because of a manifold vacuum leak or lack of idle fuel inside the carb. To see if you have idle fuel, disconnect the idle cut off solenoid while idling and if it stalls, then it is getting fuel and the problem is likely to be a manifold vacuum leak. You can't just spray a little carb cleaner around the base of the carb where it is easy to get to. You have to get it underneath where the manifold joins the head and check for cracks and a bad vacuum booster and anything else that connects to the manifold.

The spark plug looks normal although it is out of focus.

What about the black smoke when you hit the accelerator? Also the gas smell is from the exhaust. Same issue you mentioned to look at?