- Thread starter
- #61
How can I check the solenoid, I know to power it, where would I spray the carb cleaner.
Thanks.
Thanks.
New Trollhole carb and still not running right, step by step?
- Thread starter Chocolyle
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #63
I was just reading up on carb gaskets. Both carbs would rock on the manifold. I'm going to check the mating surface for plane. I ordered the Remflex kit. Thanks for the suggestion. I was going to just order the factory one.
- Thread starter
- #64
I checked the solenoid tonight, powered and not powered. Powered it worked fine, not powered some carb cleaner will went by, but very little. I took of the trucks original carb solenoid just to compare and it was the same.
For the intake manifold I checked it on my Unisaw table for flatness and there was zero light under both the engine side and the carb seat. No rocking or anything. I then checked the riser block and with out a gasket below it, some light would shine through, add a gasket and it went away. When I put the carb on it would rock ever so slightly, tighten the nuts and no light, no rock and everything seated fine. I did notice that the studs for the carb, two were all the was through into the intake chamber, possible air leak. I did tape them and put them back in.
For hoses, the one that was going to the old EGR location it is going to the first pic on the lower part of the engine block. The canister hose goes to the top of the valve cover and was tee'ed to the were carb. It is a little loose on the valve cover, air would get in there. Is that a problem?
The old heat riser section, I removed the plate and carefully checked the intake manifold for any signs of cracks etc. Nothing was seen, and polished it up. Everything looks solid. I am going to remove the copper pipes and cap the header ports.
New gasket will be here tomorrow, hoping I will have some time to get the header all the way off and put the new gasket on.
For a de-smogged truck, besides the brake vac line and the dizzy vac advanced do I need anything else connected? What is the devise on the lower passenger side of the engine? PCV valve? Would that cause any issues if not hooked up? No A/C in the truck.
For the intake manifold I checked it on my Unisaw table for flatness and there was zero light under both the engine side and the carb seat. No rocking or anything. I then checked the riser block and with out a gasket below it, some light would shine through, add a gasket and it went away. When I put the carb on it would rock ever so slightly, tighten the nuts and no light, no rock and everything seated fine. I did notice that the studs for the carb, two were all the was through into the intake chamber, possible air leak. I did tape them and put them back in.
For hoses, the one that was going to the old EGR location it is going to the first pic on the lower part of the engine block. The canister hose goes to the top of the valve cover and was tee'ed to the were carb. It is a little loose on the valve cover, air would get in there. Is that a problem?
The old heat riser section, I removed the plate and carefully checked the intake manifold for any signs of cracks etc. Nothing was seen, and polished it up. Everything looks solid. I am going to remove the copper pipes and cap the header ports.
New gasket will be here tomorrow, hoping I will have some time to get the header all the way off and put the new gasket on.
For a de-smogged truck, besides the brake vac line and the dizzy vac advanced do I need anything else connected? What is the devise on the lower passenger side of the engine? PCV valve? Would that cause any issues if not hooked up? No A/C in the truck.
- Thread starter
- #65
HEEEELLLLPPPP Please, I am at a complete loss now.
I installed the new Intake Manifold gasket tonight and got everything back together. Better but still not great. I adjusted the idle mixture screw and really made no difference, turning it in. Adjusting the dizzy made no real difference when turning it towards the fire wall, towards the front only made it worse. . . I really need someone local to help me out, pay them. It wasn't this bad with the Weber but I couldn't find anything plugged in the TH carb. I did check again for air leaks and there was nothing. Base of the carb or at the new manifold.
Gasket defiantly helped but was not the complete answer. . . . . . .
doing this now but it ain't beer. . . . 
Is anyone reading this? Is there a way to get others attention?
I installed the new Intake Manifold gasket tonight and got everything back together. Better but still not great. I adjusted the idle mixture screw and really made no difference, turning it in. Adjusting the dizzy made no real difference when turning it towards the fire wall, towards the front only made it worse. . . I really need someone local to help me out, pay them. It wasn't this bad with the Weber but I couldn't find anything plugged in the TH carb. I did check again for air leaks and there was nothing. Base of the carb or at the new manifold.
Gasket defiantly helped but was not the complete answer. . . . . . .
doing this now but it ain't beer. . . . Is anyone reading this? Is there a way to get others attention?
Did you get fresh gas?
- Thread starter
- #67
The gas was new a month ago, full tank. The FJ does not seem to like anything over 87 octane. Plus we have Ethanol in CT. See below.
- Thread starter
- #68
Finally!!!!!!!! A major improvement!!!!!
Troll hole Pin_Head
I finally had a huge improvement, yes I repeated that, progress has been made! Marshall sent me another carb and the one I originally had was funky. Dropped the new one on and I was able to immediately idle smooth, before doing anything. (Even forgot to hook back up the accelerator linkage.
)
I was able to drive it around the block, BUT, (had to have known the BUT was coming) here is what I am getting now.
It idles smooth but while idling at full temp I hear at the exhaust a small pop once in a while, mini backfire. When I drove it around the block if I got on the accelerator pedal a little it would pop a little more. It was quite dark so I did not want to do too much and I was very happy for the progress. While idling it did not smoke as much but I did notice that when I backed it out of the drive there was a cloud, at least not gas smelling as before.
I guess my question is, what now? I turned the idle mixture screw in some and did not hear much of a difference though I did not go far with it. I touched the dizzy a bit and adjusted the idle speed some. What would be the next steps I guess?
Backfire, too much fuel, keep working on the idle mixture screw?
Timing sound, I have bad ears and don't really know what I am listening for. Smooth, yes, but what else?
I have a timing light, and I am planning on that tomorrow.
Power when I drove it . . didn't really get on it, 2130 hours I don't want to be "that" guy in the neighborhood. Pop, pop diddy pop. . .drop it like it's hot. Sorry kids like the song.
As I have said from the beginning, I seem to have multiple issues and the big change was the carb. There was defiantly an issue wit the original intake gasket, plugs wires, cap something was up with the electrical and air leaks.
I will say that the TH carb, man what a difference. Even with a cold engine, no choke it really does start like it is fuel injected, instant. QC and testing would be a big cure for them. Still worth every penny.
Thank you everyone for the help to get through this.
Troll hole Pin_Head
I finally had a huge improvement, yes I repeated that, progress has been made! Marshall sent me another carb and the one I originally had was funky. Dropped the new one on and I was able to immediately idle smooth, before doing anything. (Even forgot to hook back up the accelerator linkage.
)I was able to drive it around the block, BUT, (had to have known the BUT was coming) here is what I am getting now.
It idles smooth but while idling at full temp I hear at the exhaust a small pop once in a while, mini backfire. When I drove it around the block if I got on the accelerator pedal a little it would pop a little more. It was quite dark so I did not want to do too much and I was very happy for the progress. While idling it did not smoke as much but I did notice that when I backed it out of the drive there was a cloud, at least not gas smelling as before.
I guess my question is, what now? I turned the idle mixture screw in some and did not hear much of a difference though I did not go far with it. I touched the dizzy a bit and adjusted the idle speed some. What would be the next steps I guess?
Backfire, too much fuel, keep working on the idle mixture screw?
Timing sound, I have bad ears and don't really know what I am listening for. Smooth, yes, but what else?
I have a timing light, and I am planning on that tomorrow.
Power when I drove it . . didn't really get on it, 2130 hours I don't want to be "that" guy in the neighborhood. Pop, pop diddy pop. . .drop it like it's hot. Sorry kids like the song.
As I have said from the beginning, I seem to have multiple issues and the big change was the carb. There was defiantly an issue wit the original intake gasket, plugs wires, cap something was up with the electrical and air leaks.
I will say that the TH carb, man what a difference. Even with a cold engine, no choke it really does start like it is fuel injected, instant. QC and testing would be a big cure for them. Still worth every penny.
Thank you everyone for the help to get through this.
- Thread starter
- #70
Swapped out the plugs with new ones, quick idle mixture screw adjustment, timing adjustment and good to go. Truck hasn't run this great since it arrived. Thank you for the help!! Now to get it muddy tomorrow with the kids!!!!