New to off roading & calling all Alpine Loop/San Juans experts!

[abuck99]

Compressor- good idea for several reasons, but driving on pavement back to town for an air up with 15-20psi you're limited to about 25-30mph max or you'll take the risk of overheating/damaging your tires. Air up before you hit the pavement.

Tire repair kit: plug kit by ARB is a good example of a quality trail side repair set up. Watch a YouTube vid on how to plug a tire. Trail side tire repair can and does happen- be prepared.

Driving skills: while all those trails are doable in a stock rig I've seen people make dumb choices and get into trouble not considering proper gear selection, when/where to brake and when not to, not driving in 4 Lo range (3,2,1 )with center diff locked etc. You can easily smoke your brakes or transmission if you aren't aware of when & where to apply brakes and gear selection.

There are sections up there that are "no bull****" especially if it starts raining, so be safe, plan ahead, be prepared to safely pilot your passengers through the high passes.

Long term- find a group to wheel with to learn from, or take a 4wd course and learn the basics, what you and your rig are capable of.

 

[87warrior]

Just to be clear - the path below in red is what you're recommending instead of the original plan I outlined? And what about doing Yankee Boy Basin out of Ouray? I forgot to mention I was thinking we could do that as well. Also, this new route involves significantly more pavement driving on 550 - at 18-20psi this is still OK if I'm not driving too fast?

I've never used a tire patch kit - I like the idea of buying one to have with me but I don't know how I'd ever get to practice with it like I do my usual gear. Is it something I could use reasonably well the first time I need it?

The route in red is my recommendation Yankee Boy will also be an easy drive for you.

When I visit the San Juans I always air down at camp (22 psi for the stock sized tires I run) and leave them aired down for the entire week. 550 is a slow road, with only one spot reaching 50mph for a couple of miles. You'll be okay with the air pressure.

I always seem to pick up a nail when on the trails so I now carry a plug kit. They are easy to use and easier than putting on a spare in my opinion.

 

[Ohthetrees]

You can buy a cheap compressor with the money you save by buying these "dumb" deflators instead of those good but expensive "smart" deflators. I like my dumb deflator so well, I wouldn't take smart deflators even for free.

TeraFlex 4807200 Air Deflator Amazon.com: TeraFlex 4807200 Air Deflator: Automotive

 

[NMC_EXP]

Based on test results published on Expedition Portal I bought a Viair 450P compressor. Home Depot has several Viair models which can be ordered online and delivered to your house w/o shipping charge.

The thing to look for in 12V compressors is "100% duty cycle". This boils down to the ability to reinflate 4 tires without the compressor shutting itself down due to thermal overload protection. Then twiddling your thumbs for 15 minutes while the compressor cools off.

I resisted spending the money for a decent compressor for a long time and that was a mistake. Reducing tire pressure is worth doing just for personal comfort and preventing shaking the vehicle to pieces on washboard and embedded rock trails.

And the increase in traction is significant.

As to the vehicle traveling uphill having the right of way, expect 1/3 or less of drivers to know or respect this guideline. When driving narrow sections constantly keep an eye open for pull-outs wide enough for two vehicles. Even if traveling uphill and you just passed a pull-out back-up, use it and let the downhill traffic pass.

If someone has pulled out to let you pass, standard procedure is to signal the pulled-out vehicle how many more vehicles are following in your group by holding up that number of fingers or making the OK sign to show zero are following you.

You might want to check out TrailsOffroad in addition to TrailDamage:

Find Your Next Offroad Trail | Trails Offroad

Travel at a speed in your own comfort zone. If you stop and get out to sight see or walk a section use the parking brake and verify it is operational and functioning well before going out.

Have fun.

 

[staggrlee]

... If you stop and get out to sight see or walk a section use the parking brake and verify it is operational and functioning well before going out.

As suggested make sure e-brake is adjusted properly (you should be able to get about four clicks) but isn't dragging on the drums. When setting the brake on a hill, always set it in N and make sure it is holding the vehicle before putting in P. This prevents you from loading the transmission parking pawl. They break really easily and bad things can happen when they do.

 

[NMC_EXP]

When setting the brake on a hill, always set it in N and make sure it is holding the vehicle before putting in P. This prevents you from loading the transmission parking pawl. They break really easily and bad things can happen when they do.

Excellent point re: setting the p-brake while in neutral then putting an auto trans in park.

 

[Mike6158]

+1 for the ViaAir compressor. AS far as deflators go the only thing I would add is that if it's just you airing down then they speed up the process. I start putting them on and by the time I get to the last one it's almost time to take it off and put the valve stem cap back on. Of course the time saved is offset by the time it takes to air up and then some

 

[Mike6158]

Linked in Post #4 or search MV-50

Yes clip to the battery or direct wired with large cable is the only compressor you should consider.


Pictured stock 100 on Black Bear Pass

Well that'll get your blood flowing

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Well that'll get your blood flowing

25 years ago before San Miguel county maintained it yes, today I feel its overrated but still a must do.

 

[MtnMantologist]

Thanks for the tip on the eBrake. It was actually 100% non functioning when I bought it and it's going to the shop this Monday to get fixed. I had a hunch I would want an eBrake in the San Juans haha

Also, regarding gearing, I have D, 2 and L on the main shifter + the H-N-L shifter. When down in 4LO should I still be in L or 2 on the main shifter? Does the main shift selection (amongst those three forward gears) matter when in 4LO or just keep it in D?

 

[planomateo]

25 years ago before San Miguel county maintained it yes, today I feel its overrated but still a must do.

We ended up eating breakfast with some guys in Ouray Wednesday morning, turned out they lived about 5 miles from us in the North Dallas area. They've been coming out to the San Juan's since the 70's. One of the guys said the steps were as high as our table top (~4 ft) back in the day. He said they ended up ripping them out.

 

[Mike6158]

25 years ago before San Miguel county maintained it yes, today I feel its overrated but still a must do.

I understand. I'm working in Farmington for the next month or two. I'm driving a company truck right now and I wouldn't even take that over Ophir Pass (don't want to get fired). I'm going home in a week and coming back in the LC. I can't stand being trapped by a vehicle. Last Sunday I drove from Farmington to Hesperus to Mancos to Dolores to Rico to Sawpit to Placerville to Ridgeway to Ouray and then back to Farmington I saw a lot of Jeeps and a lot of 100's, some traveling in groups. I wondered what was up (100's in the Hills I guess). As I drove past the trail going to Engineer Pass I noticed that it looked almost paved compared to the rock pile it was three or four years ago. I tried it in my '08 Silverado and while I think I could have made it up we hadn't planned for an over nighter and it was taking a long time to pick my way through the boulders so we went over Ophir instead.

Anyway... I have my weekends to myself so once I'm here in my 100 I'll go see something more than Anasazi ruins (I still like visiting those though).

Apologies to the OP. I'll unclog your thread now

 

[abuck99]

Thanks for the tip on the eBrake. It was actually 100% non functioning when I bought it and it's going to the shop this Monday to get fixed. I had a hunch I would want an eBrake in the San Juans haha

Also, regarding gearing, I have D, 2 and L on the main shifter + the H-N-L shifter. When down in 4LO should I still be in L or 2 on the main shifter? Does the main shift selection (amongst those three forward gears) matter when in 4LO or just keep it in D?

Yes it matters which gear you select even in low range: mainly for not lugging putting too much load on the engine/transmission so that you're keeping your transmission and coolant temps as low as possible. Once you hit the dirt before you're headed up towards your Alpine Loop you want to shift the H-N-L shifter to LOW range and the gear selector to 3, more likely 2 or even (L) 1 depending on the climb, pace, etc. Coming down steep slopes select 2 or (L)1 which ever gear provides the best momentum control so that you are NOT on the brakes. Allow the engine braking to do the majority of work at controlling your down hill speed. This will maintain skid control and save you from overheating your brakes, warping your rotors, boiling your brake fluid, and overheating your brake booster.

 

[Live to Ski]

OP: when you get your parking brake adjusted, make sure you test it (4-5 clicks like mentioned above). Might be worth printing out the FSM section on this and bringing it to the shop.

I actually use the "parking brake adjust" as a test when i interview mechanics.

My experience (even with Toy dealers) is that very few mechanics know what they are doing with these rigs

 

[TomEf]

Not sure about Telluride, I didn't try.

There's a Shell right outside Telluride with air. Probably under 5min to do all four tires.

 

[MtnMantologist]

OP: when you get your parking brake adjusted, make sure you test it (4-5 clicks like mentioned above). Might be worth printing out the FSM section on this and bringing it to the shop.

I actually use the "parking brake adjust" as a test when i interview mechanics.

My experience (even with Toy dealers) is that very few mechanics know what they are doing with these rigs

Hmmm, my owner's manual doesn't speak to eBrake maintenance or adjustment. What could I point the shop to? Or can I just say to set it for a max of 4-5 clicks?

 

[NMC_EXP]

Hmmm, my owner's manual doesn't speak to eBrake maintenance or adjustment. What could I point the shop to? Or can I just say to set it for a max of 4-5 clicks?

Bear in mind not many people ever use the e-brake. As a result the moving parts in the linkage rust solid. I've had to pay for unscrewing that completely avoidable problem on several used vehicles I've bought. I use the e-brake every time I park - even on the flat.

I cannot comment on the specific way to adjust yours other than if it is rusted, it will not adjust.

 

[MtnMantologist]

Mine is definitely corroded and useless at the moment. The shop had the LC a couple weeks ago and had to order a part to fix the eBrake. It's costing around $320 and includes some number of new parts - so all that to say, they know what they're getting into and are confident they have the right parts. The shop isn't where I live so hence the delay in getting the work done - the missing part arrived the day I was leaving last time.

 

[084runnerltd]

Get this for airing down:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004...e+deflator&dpPl=1&dpID=51fUzyuL5JL&ref=plSrch

It literally takes about 20-30 seconds per wheel. It is cheaper than those preset deflators, it is quicker, and you can lower the pressure to any level....which is not as easy with the preset screw-ons.

If you guys aren't using this, you should give it a try, hands down, nothing I know of comes close to it.

 

[87warrior]

Get this for airing down:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004...e+deflator&dpPl=1&dpID=51fUzyuL5JL&ref=plSrch

It literally takes about 20-30 seconds per wheel. It is cheaper than those preset deflators, it is quicker, and you can lower the pressure to any level....which is not as easy with the preset screw-ons.

If you guys aren't using this, you should give it a try, hands down, nothing I know of comes close to it.

The ARB deflator is awesome. I trust it more than my Staun deflators. In fact, the Stauns have been in my toolbox in the shop for a few seasons now...