New to me: '66 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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fj40 rookie needs a little help

this is my first post here, and it is good to read other people using this place to get started. i have limited knowledge of vehicles in general but i have always wanted a LC and one came up that i just couldnt let slide by. i have a bunch of manuals for my 71 fj40 but i cannot, for the life of me, find a good picture of an engine with things labled, such as temp sender gauge. the truck came with a new Painless Wiring Harness, but with most of the wires out already i am having a hard time locating a few parts. teh haynes i have just doesnt show it.
thank you
upstream
 
Hello all! Just to let you know I'm not sitting on my arse here. I got the 40 pretty much stripped down and will be pulling off the tub next weekend. The frame is going to the sand blasters and will be POR15'd when I get it back. I love small towns sometimes. They are only charging me $75 to do the frame. If they can use lighter media, I may have them do the tub too. I'm going to be stocking up on some 14 & 16GA for the repairs.
I'm going to do a spring over (got an extra set of springs from Sean) and will be mounting FJ62 axles under it. That and the 2F and 4speed and I think it'll be a nice trail rig. Haven't looked into lockers yet, but those are in the plan as well. Looks like I need to save up for a bigger Mig. Mine is good for the sheet metal, but not for axles and spring hangers.
Anyone up for a suspension build sometime in April? I'm just a short 2 hr drive from Carlisle... :D

If you want to see my progress so far, you can check out my site here: KB3GUN's 1966 FJ40 Build

PS - Thanks go out to Mike and his wife for making the trip up to Somerset to deliver the 40. Much appreciated!
 
Awesome! very cool. :cool:
 
Bill,

Your '66 looks good so far!
 
Thanks all! It's more fun than I imagined.

I can't wait to git-r-done... Doing this frame off is also a great learning experience. I don't want to be one of those guys on the trail that doesn't know his own vehicle.
I hope to have it done by July, but if I don't, no big deal. I'd rather do it right the first time. I can still wheel the FJC to get my fix.

I've been following your 40 buildup too, Caz. Looks like little Adam will have a great rig when he's old enough. Great work!
 
Link has been bookmarked. Thanks Jeff.

Sean tossed in an extra set of springs for a spring over. I haven't even looked at them yet to see what they are. I was reading that 55 springs are a good choice since they are centered and a couple of inches longer than 40 springs.
I'll be doing a lot more reading because the different suspension setups people are using are confusing the *#*# out of me right now. I know the front hangers will need to be relocated further out (left and right sides) on the frame due to the short passenger side axle tube on the 62 axle. I'm sure I'll need to move them forward also. I think, maybe, might, huh... where am I...
I don't want a lot of extra height, just more articulation. Will probably be running 35's now that I think about it. I need to look at some setups to get some ideas. Have I confused me yet? Yes I have.
 
look into recessing the spring and shackle hangers up into the frame a few inches....

just add a couple leaves to a stock pack in SOA.... if you plan to trailride the beast, you can then cut the axles at the factory weld for the knuckle and set the pinion angle and caster, drop it 2 degrees to allow for settling, then burn in the perches and reweld the knuckle to the housing... easy enough? LOL!

Same drill for the rear minus the cut and turn, just set the pinion angle and burn in the perches.... get ya some 14" travel shocks.... build a rear trackbar, highsteer arms and DOM rods and link on the front steering... you get the idea : )
 
Already planned to do a cut and turn. Waiting to pick up the axles to see how I'll need to line everything up.

look into recessing the spring and shackle hangers up into the frame a few inches....
Another good idea. Once I get all my components here I may have a better idea on how it's all going to go together.

I only have a 115v mig (flux and gas) so unless I get a heavier welder before then, I'll just tack everything and try to get a local welder to come and weld everything up at one time. Once I get the frame blasted, I'll go to the next step then. It'll be a few weeks so I have time to do some research.

Thanks for all the ideas.
 
I wouldn't be afraid of the 110 machine. You saw the one I have, run 0.023 or 0.030 flux core and turn the heat all the way up. I can burn 3/16 no problem, bevels are your friend as well. Unless you want to buy a bigger welder :) I'll be using the 110 on my swap when time comes.
 
I wouldn't be afraid of the 110 machine. You saw the one I have, run 0.023 or 0.030 flux core and turn the heat all the way up. I can burn 3/16 no problem, bevels are your friend as well. Unless you want to buy a bigger welder :) I'll be using the 110 on my swap when time comes.


if you're going to be doing any more welding on anything thick (1/8-3/16+)...get some .035 or .045 flux....023 and .030 are for sheetmetal:lol:
 
if you're going to be doing any more welding on anything thick (1/8-3/16+)...get some .035 or .045 flux....023 and .030 are for sheetmetal:lol:

But on a smaller maching the smaller wire puts more heat into the metal and allow a little more penetration. I know the previous owner of my welder said that .045 wire sucked through the machine. I have only used .030 wire in my machine and it has done fine, sucked for 1/4" thats why I don't go that heavy or will have Sean or my uncle weld it up.

Also just going on what I have read and seen over on Pirate, 4runner rick uses .023 for everything he builds, which seams to hold up fine. Hell he just built a set of steering arms with the little 110 machine

Back to the FJ40 Build now :)

Disclaimer: I claim no real knowledge of welding, I am self taught and only marginal at best compared to John :)
 
I can always borrow the Lincoln 170 (220v) from work if need be. I forgot we had a portable one here. I'm a welding noob myself too. I can arc on 1" plate all day, but using Mig on the small stuff (sheet metal) takes some getting used to. I'll use the 220v for the frame and axles. I'd feel a little more confident with that.
Thanks for the suggestions!
 
Hey Bill, you may/may not have to cut and turn... particularly if you stretch the wheelbase with a little bit longer springs, like 55 rears or even using the 62 springs... the 62 axle has more positive caster than other cruiser model axles so be sure to measure the degree with a degree finder to see if it is needed...

Talking to John last night, we agreed you could easily raise the hangers for the springs and shackles without having to sleeve the frame since with the spring spacing of the 62 axles... you will have to outboard just like in the link I posted. Then you can simply raise the hangers upside the frame on the outboard brackets to gain less lift : )

62 springs are stronger, have slip pads, and have a little more leaves than others BTW... very refined : )
 
Just for the record, the shackle holder on the rear of the 40 was built with a 110 welder. I then hooked it to my mack and dragged it up my driveway. 13,000+ lbs. just to make sure it would hold;)
 
Only 13000 lbs... I guess I'll leave the shackle holder there then..lol
Once I get some more welding under my belt, maybe I'll be a little more confident on my small mig. Thanks for the info tho. A friend here at work told me today he does all the welding on his stock car with the same 110v welder, so maybe there is something to it.
Thanks again!
 

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