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Joined
Jan 8, 2022
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Location
NW Arkansas
Currently living in the Ozarks and joining the ranks of Series 100 owners with a high mileage 99 LC. Looks like I will have enough left in the budget for some repairs and upgrades. The only leak I see is in the picture and would like to know if it is serious and how hard it is to fix.

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I also would like some opinions on where to go with upgrades for a daily driver/weekend warrior vehicle. My plan is to start with front/rear bumpers.

Thanks in advance.
 
Welcome to the forum and the world of Land Cruisers from a fellow Arkansan:) First of all that leak would most likely be your rear main seal. Mine leaks from the same spot. Absolute pain to fix and very expensive if a shop does it as it requires dropping the trans. Just keep your engine oil changed regularly and as long as it’s not dumping an excessive amount I wouldn’t even worry about it.
 
Clean the engine top to bottom then drive it and monitor for leaks. There's no way to tell where it's coming from when the whole drivetrain is covered in decades of grime.

Earlier this year I had an '03 Sequoia that appeared to have a leak in the exact same spot. It turned out to be originating from up top, leaky valve covers which is common on the 2UZ at this age/mileage. After cleaning the drivetrain well I snugged up the valve cover bolts and the engine was miraculously dry.
 
Try some AT-205 reseal. It is pretty good at revamping seals and gaskets.

Not to mention, you could put a pile of oil in it for what a fix would cost you.
 
Thanks guys, this is helpful. This will be my first 4wd vehicle and I have a lot to learn.
4wd vehicles are good but arent a cure to cancer.. so make sure you follow the same safety rules as any other car type :).

Also I have a small leak like you have. But I think mine is smaller than what you show. I agree with @GTV its better to clean the whole engine and monitor the leak. Although in my case I can clearly see my valve cover on the drivers side is leaking.
 
Welcome from Conway.

Be sure to check into replacing heater Ts if that hasn't already been done.

Sometimes gently tightening valve cover bolts will buy some time with oil leaks.

100 Series FAQs.


I had the drip when I bought mine. For now, this keeps it in check.


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Welcome from Conway.

Be sure to check into replacing heater Ts if that hasn't already been done.

Sometimes gently tightening valve cover bolts will buy some time with oil leaks.

100 Series FAQs.


I had the drip when I bought mine. For now, this keeps it in check.


View attachment 2888410
Any noticeable difference between this and the regular M1 synthetic?
 
Any noticeable difference between this and the regular M1 synthetic?

I'm the last person to offer any oil brand arguments. I started using it on the recommendation from a friend with an 80 series 1FZ that runs his in more extreme conditions than I will ever see with the 2uz. I get into a lot of dust and mud more than extreme heat or high RPMs. I drive the 100 less than 5,000 per year. Oil changes come from a winter maintenance cycle more than high mileage.

I thought I would give it a try with no expectations of it solving a problem or being anything but a good oil. I was surprised to see the seal conditioner actually worked. I am seeing similar results as my friend with an 80 series.

I've been using the M1 209a filter that I get for cheap using Advance Speed Perks money.

I'm sure we have many members that can explain the subtle differences between oils.

My only advice is to use a good filter that you can afford and change the oil at least once a year or follow the manufacturer's suggestions.

 

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