New to FJ55s. . .

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

EBrake Cable & Tailgate handle. . .

Hello -

Thought I'd post an update along with a few questions & a part search request. . .

Last weekend was warmer (high 30's) so I decided to do some more "cleaning". I threw the wheels back on so I could roll it outside where I flushed out the water/coolant system w/a hose - I had already drained the bulk of the coolant when I pulled the radiator, but still flushed lots of additional murky liquid anyway - including from the heater hoses as much as I could. Also rinsed out the radiator which contained lots of cat-food-like waterlogged pellets??? Not sure how they got in there as the system seemed pretty closed off. . . I'm not sure what else they could've been?? Also cleaned and rinsed a lot of other little stuff and washed all the floor mats again, hoping to replace the mouse condo stench with a clean lemony one. I've slowed down a bit the past few days as I'm playing stay-at-home dad during Christmas vacation. Mostly I've been ordering parts and waiting for them to arrive so I can stop DISassembly and start the REassembly.

I did talk to Mark A. today about my carb., which he's had since the end of last week. He's not 100% sure yet whether he can resurrect all of it. The throttle shaft is frozen - I'm hoping he'll be able to get it unstuck! I did talk to him about drilling it for vacuum advance while it's there (which I am going to have done). I can just cover it w/a cap for now and then it's there if/when I need it. Can't hurt I figure.

So on to a few questions. The first is the ebrake. I told Mark about the overdrive and asked about parts & a cable. He said there were some variances in cable ends (at the firewall end) and he wasn't comfortable sending me one not knowing exactly what I have/need. Also, the overdrive probably skews the required length. . . Since my cruiser didn't come w/a cable to use as a reference, I was hoping you guys could help identify what I need. Below are a few pics of the attachment linkage on the firewall. I'm assuming this is stock for a '72? One pic is with the handle pulled, and one is with it released.

Finally, one of the few parts I haven't been able to locate is a tailgate handle. Mine's obviously broken - see last pic. Does anyone by chance have one laying around looking for a good home? I suppose I could try to fabricate a replacement - which I'll do if I come up empty, but I'd rather not!

Thanks again & hope everyone's having a relaxed approach to the big day (at least it's a big day on my house w/a 6 yr. old & 9 yr. old)!

Tom
EBrake 7.webp
EBrake 5.webp
Tailgate Handle 4.webp
 
So on to a few questions. The first is the ebrake. I told Mark about the overdrive and asked about parts & a cable. He said there were some variances in cable ends (at the firewall end) and he wasn't comfortable sending me one not knowing exactly what I have/need. Also, the overdrive probably skews the required length. . . Since my cruiser didn't come w/a cable to use as a reference, I was hoping you guys could help identify what I need. Below are a few pics of the attachment linkage on the firewall. I'm assuming this is stock for a '72? One pic is with the handle pulled, and one is with it released.

hhhhmmmm, that's a new one on me :confused: all the pigs i've had had the same style as above.
 
Mine looks like this...
I believe it's an FJ40 cable. I just called C.Dan, he told me the lengths available and I bought the longest one.
ebrake 001.webp
 
Does anyone by chance have one laying around looking for a good home? I suppose I could try to fabricate a replacement - which I'll do if I come up empty, but I'd rather not!

I think I might still have an intact handle on one of my (4) spare tailgates...Give me a couple days to go out to my secret Sloughhouse door repository and take another look.
 
I think I might still have an intact handle on one of my (4) spare tailgates...Give me a couple days to go out to my secret Sloughhouse door repository and take another look.

Pighead - thanks for looking, I appreciate it.

Haven't had large chunks of time to move things significantly forward, but did manage to drop my wheels off to get some new shoes today. I decided on 31x10.5s - they're pretty big! If nothing else, they should look the part.

I also removed all the short rubber hose sections connecting the hardlines along the frame rails in the fuel and emissions systems under the truck. They were pretty crumbly and will be replaced. . .

I haven't put the fuel tank back in because I've been debating w/myself whether or not to paint it (where to stop project creep?) It's in really good shape, but the original paint was chipped quite a bit and I have a hard time putting it back up there unprotected. So today I compromised w/myself and after a light sanding gave it a rattle can job. Not concours, but better than nothing.

Also sent out the radiator to get throughly cleaned/rodded & to have the top of each side support soldered back on (both were not attached). For $100, I thought it'd be cheap insurance - project creep once again.

I did finally get one of my parts orders - or at least the parts that weren't backordered. So I was able to reassemble the rear brake cylinders w/new rubber bits. One of the (4) rebuild kits was different than the others and even though it had the correct part number on the packaging, the outside dust covers were not the same. Don't know what's up w/that. They were different enough that I decided to just reuse a pair of the old ones which were still in OK shape.

Hmmm. Makes me feel better after typing all this up. I have actually done a few things these past few days!

A few pics of the chipped gas tank (new paint around the edges), new shoes & current resting place of the Pig. . . I'm excited to get the gas tank done and reinstalled cause my garage stinks!
IMG_1972.webp
IMG_1970.webp
IMG_1971.webp
 
Last edited:
That's kind of annoying - not sure why the pics ended up upside down. . . I do not have an antigravity device in my garage. . . in case you're wondering. . . which you're probably not.

EDIT: I messed with the photos this AM and got them to show right side up.
 
Last edited:
On a serious note, what is that scissor lift thing that your PIG is sitting on. I have never seen 1 b4.

That's exactly what it is, an auto scissor lift that I found used on Craigslist. The seller even delivered it to my house! I got it originally for my other project/fun car (see pic below) and it works great for that because w/the engine in the rear, it has a flat floor pan right where the lift goes. I can access just about everything w/out the lift getting in the way. It makes removing the engine a simple task because you lower it out of the rear. I can access all the suspension & brakes etc.... It has really made working on that car so much easier.

For the Pig, or any other "normal vehicle", it's not quite as useful as there is obviously stuff you need to access under the center of the vehicle, right where the lift is. It's still easier than using a jack & jackstands, especially for stuff like brake work, removing the fuel tank, stuff around the perimeter. . . Plus it fits in my garage w/only a medium high ceiling. If I had the space, I'd have a standard 2-post lift, but I don't have enough height.

This is the one I have: Automotive Scissor Lift
IMG_0913.webp
 
A little scope creep can be constructive on a vehicle that is brand new to you.
What is the status of the engine? Do I remember correctly that you got it turning over?

That's definitely a good way to justify project creep - it allows me to get to know the cruiser better. I'll use that one on my wife at some point when the $$ starts adding up. . . : ) : )

The engine: It is spinning freely now - I try to remember to give it a few turns every time I'm in the garage working on it. I haven't tried to turn it over w/the starter yet. At this point, I need to put the fuel tank back in, get the carb back from Mark A. (assuming he can bring it back to life), reassemble a few of the pieces and bits I've removed (thermostat, water pump, fan, radiator etc...), verify all the wiring, put some oil in it, do the 10 other things I'm forgetting. . . then it should be ready for a test fire.

I haven't decided if I am going to pull the oil pan or not before I try to start it. The oil I drained was dark, but didn't look abnormal to me. There wasn't an especially large build up of crud on the drain plug or any metal bits that I saw. I did get a new gasket, so I'll be ready to reinstall it if I decide to take a look. Knowing how I operate, I will probably talk myself into doing it just out of curiosity.
 
The engine: It is spinning freely now - I try to remember to give it a few turns every time I'm in the garage working on it.


An excellent opportunity to learn how to adjust the valves on an F engine...do it a few times while cold, easier to do it when you warm it up.
I vote you drop the pan now...clean the oil pick-up screen, check the play in your oilpump gears, maybe "flip" that one gear in the oilpump. Check the torque on the conrod bolts...maybe pull a bearing cap just for fun.
 
An excellent opportunity to learn how to adjust the valves on an F engine...do it a few times while cold, easier to do it when you warm it up.
I vote you drop the pan now...clean the oil pick-up screen, check the play in your oilpump gears, maybe "flip" that one gear in the oilpump. Check the torque on the conrod bolts...maybe pull a bearing cap just for fun.

These are the exact reasons I'd drop the pan. To do some learning, get a visual on a few things from the bottom, check a bearing or two etc... Some of my hesitation comes from - what if I find bad stuff? In most cases I'd rather know, but in this case. . . I'm not so sure! Ignorance is bliss?

I have pulled the valve cover and taken a peek at the top end. Functionally, it seems very similar to the Porsche engines I've worked on - except everything is much easier to access on the Toyota engine! Adjusting the valves seems pretty straight forward. Porsches require a specially bent feeler gauge, general limberness of the body for contortions, three hands and even then you have to do a few "blind" and by feel. Of course I probably just jinxed myself and it will be the nightmare of all nightmares.
 
what if I find bad stuff?

Sure, what if you find a piston ring or two...might as well know now before you put the carb back on and start it up. You can also get a pretty good look at the cylinder walls from underneath. After the trouble you had busting it loose, you should take a look at those.
 
Hello - hope everyone had a nice weekend & holiday yesterday!

Today I reinstalled the brake master cylinder (after doing a rebuild) and rebuilt rear brake cylinders and did a preliminary bleed (just the rear axle). I got the rear brake shoes installed and the drums etc.... basically ready to adjust and work on getting the system free of air.

I am waiting on the front brake cylinder rebuild kits to do the front. . .

I also dropped the oil pan. It's kind of a neat view of the underside of the crank, pistons etc....

There was some sludge/grit in the bottom of the oil pan, but not really too bad. . . more grit than sludge. I did find metal pieces too (see pic next post). I'm sure there were a few more, but none bigger than what's shown in the photo. There is definitely some wear/scoring on the cylinder walls; it seemed mostly limited to the outsides where the piston skirts are longer (see a few pics below). It was hard to get good pics of the scoring w/lighting and focusing etc... I have no reference as to how bad this is????

I did not pull off any bearing caps, but certainly could at this point. I'd just need to know the torque when I reinstall it. . .

Anyone care to offer any comments on the scoring or anything else?

Thanks,
Tom
12-26-11 Engine 5.webp
12-26-11 Engine 9.webp
12-26-11 Engine 13.webp
 
Pics of cleaned up pan and metal bits found below.

A few misc. relevant comments: I know from the receipts that came w/the cruiser that the engine had some issues after being rebuilt in 1987. The oil pump was replaced in 1994 and the service receipt says, "some bearing damage has occurred due to faulty oil pump, however the engine should still last many miles". There is also a note about the oil pump relief valve being scored heavily. . .
12-26-11 Engine 14.webp
12-26-11 Engine 17.webp
 
Had I not seen the last pick, I would be in 100% agreement as from the pics it looks absolutely fine. Those metal bits do not look good. Check the gear on the distributor. Drop the oil pimp and check there as well. If nothing jumps out at you. When you are ready to test fire, oil prime the engine, check the gauge for pressure, if you have pressure ...reinstall the distrib and fire it up.
 
Nice 911--did you put the rear flares on? I've got a '77!

The cruiser gods must have aligned the stars for p-car owners to pick up FJ55's--I can't wait to work on my 'new' '76 project. Great thread--good luck!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom