New Shop, design stages....
- Thread starter woody
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Woody,
Have you priced bricking the walls, and roof in iron, to match the hosue idea?
here that works out about the same cost, or cheaper.
I am currently going throuh similar thing, as our new house is curved roof, and going to build the shed with curved roof and rendered same as house.
Going to insulate, double glaze, shower, toilet, mezz floor, hot water service,a nd heat the shed to live in while building house, so I am left with a wells et up shed once the house is completed.
Have you priced bricking the walls, and roof in iron, to match the hosue idea?
here that works out about the same cost, or cheaper.
I am currently going throuh similar thing, as our new house is curved roof, and going to build the shed with curved roof and rendered same as house.
Going to insulate, double glaze, shower, toilet, mezz floor, hot water service,a nd heat the shed to live in while building house, so I am left with a wells et up shed once the house is completed.
- Thread starter
- #23
haven't priced it yet, but planning to do something.....we haven't even started house ideas, so really the only issue with the building is colors. It will be "easy" enuf to add brick to the front to tie the two together later...
fsusteve said:
Brian,
If you put in a couple of cameras to feed to the internet, and bring over a half dozen or so naked chicks who'll work on a Cruiser, you could charge $4.95/person to watch for an evenings worth of work.....
And you could just build a 4.5 acre building.
I dont think anyone on the live feed would notice if they had tools on the go or not Woody, and most getting the feed would be "spinnin thier own spanners" probably 
I know a Fountain dealer that whores em out, Connie use to work for him. If your looking let me know and I can put you in touch with Joe. Reggy is prolly gonna kick his ass soon.........
woody said:
Just curious but what the current price on steel is going to affect your quotes? the quote you mention sounds close to my uncles quote about 2 yrs ago.
Also figure out your concret costs! uncles building 25 x 48 wood, three normal garage doors, 6x10x48 storage above, did almost all everything himself and my help, at about $23000. but over $8000 was concret, the 25x48 plus about another 25x48 in front of the doors.
concret price was outragous, but had the work done, still thats a good chunk of dough. about 1/3 of the total cost.
Also figure out your concret costs! uncles building 25 x 48 wood, three normal garage doors, 6x10x48 storage above, did almost all everything himself and my help, at about $23000. but over $8000 was concret, the 25x48 plus about another 25x48 in front of the doors.
concret price was outragous, but had the work done, still thats a good chunk of dough. about 1/3 of the total cost.
Think about in floor radiant heat. Even if you don't put in the water heater right away, it's tough to go back and plumb it after the crete is down. Just keeping the floor at 50 will give you months more of comfortable working time.
I'd go bigger. Big as you can get away with. Space gets used up fast, and the coolest shop I've ever been in had a large area in one corner with TV, tunes, pool table, small kitchen, and full bath. It was walled and ceilinged with storage above. C will appeciate it. I visited my buddy for three weeks and never saw the inside of his house. All the entertaining was done in the shop.
His pole barn was enormous and he still walled in both the lean-to sides within two years for more room.
I'd go bigger. Big as you can get away with. Space gets used up fast, and the coolest shop I've ever been in had a large area in one corner with TV, tunes, pool table, small kitchen, and full bath. It was walled and ceilinged with storage above. C will appeciate it. I visited my buddy for three weeks and never saw the inside of his house. All the entertaining was done in the shop.
His pole barn was enormous and he still walled in both the lean-to sides within two years for more room.
Gumby said:
I STRONGLY concur with Gumby. I have experienced in floor heat and it is WONDERFUL. Worth every penny of whatever it costs. ANY construction I do up here in the North, whether it's an addition to the house, garage, or the barn I'm going to build at camp, will have in floor heat.
I'm thinking my barn might need to be timberframe construction, as the house is a log cabin - maybe I'll call Mitch. See the new TT, just now coming out, for Mitch's sweet shop that was the site for the 2nd annual 3FE Bash.
Man I am envious. Just sold my house and am preparing to build. I want a shop but 40X60 there ain't no way. 
Wife wants almost 4000 sq. feet of house alone. Course have no idea who's going to vacuum all that. Cool woody once again I am so envious. 
Wife wants almost 4000 sq. feet of house alone. Course have no idea who's going to vacuum all that. Cool woody once again I am so envious. 
My humble thoughts after working const for 20 years.
No radient heat, get a waste oil burner. Friend heats his 60x100 for nothing. all kinds of shops willing to give away tranny fluid, oil, ect. great heat. Also don't like radient heat, laying on it working and your back gets very hot.
I prefer stick framed, just easier to change (add doors, windows, ect). That being said, if you don't mind the look of a steel building they can't be beat for cost and how fast they go up. You can always stick frame a door in. With a steel building studs are spaced much farther apart, not bad you just need to be aware of it.
Run water, one of the best parts of my garage.
As far as insulation.....I would have the expandable foam blown in. It seals better, no itch, done quick.
I would put more than one door in and go big.
To save on cost you could have only half the floor poured. I wouldn't, if you are like me at all it would be years before you poured the other half, and then it would take you weeks to get all the crap off it.
I would pour the floor with 4000 psi mud and ad fiber. Makes a much stronger floor. Make sure they soak the living tar out of the floor with sealer after it has been finished, this helps with the hairy floor effect from fiber. If that does happen you can take a weed burner and burn it off. the strength is worth it.
One other thing I would add.....ONE BIG A$$ SWAMP COOLER. Heat is great in the winter, but a 100 deg shop is useless in the summer.
LOTS and LOTS of lights. I run High output 8' halogens end to end the length of the shop. they are spaced about 8' apart. Turn em on and its like daylight.
I had a neighbor build like this. They finished the shop and moved into that while they built their house.
Good luck
No radient heat, get a waste oil burner. Friend heats his 60x100 for nothing. all kinds of shops willing to give away tranny fluid, oil, ect. great heat. Also don't like radient heat, laying on it working and your back gets very hot.
I prefer stick framed, just easier to change (add doors, windows, ect). That being said, if you don't mind the look of a steel building they can't be beat for cost and how fast they go up. You can always stick frame a door in. With a steel building studs are spaced much farther apart, not bad you just need to be aware of it.
Run water, one of the best parts of my garage.
As far as insulation.....I would have the expandable foam blown in. It seals better, no itch, done quick.
I would put more than one door in and go big.
To save on cost you could have only half the floor poured. I wouldn't, if you are like me at all it would be years before you poured the other half, and then it would take you weeks to get all the crap off it.
I would pour the floor with 4000 psi mud and ad fiber. Makes a much stronger floor. Make sure they soak the living tar out of the floor with sealer after it has been finished, this helps with the hairy floor effect from fiber. If that does happen you can take a weed burner and burn it off. the strength is worth it.
One other thing I would add.....ONE BIG A$$ SWAMP COOLER. Heat is great in the winter, but a 100 deg shop is useless in the summer.
LOTS and LOTS of lights. I run High output 8' halogens end to end the length of the shop. they are spaced about 8' apart. Turn em on and its like daylight.
I had a neighbor build like this. They finished the shop and moved into that while they built their house.
Good luck
http://www.bagelhole.org/article.php/Energy/275/
Saw this a few years back (somewhere else) and always thought it would be great. Fortunately where I live, we don't know what a heater is. Although AC is a different beast for us all together.
Saw this a few years back (somewhere else) and always thought it would be great. Fortunately where I live, we don't know what a heater is. Although AC is a different beast for us all together.
There are two kinds of steel frames that I know about. One is heavey C channel. The other is a truss system. The C channel uses fewer beams per length of building. The truss system uses more, as they are smaller. They stick out about a foot, and can be used for shelving, etc. Or insulation. My neighbor just built a C channel 30X40; remember to plan an "attic", he made one of wood that takes up 1/3 the floor space and has permanent wooden stairs up to it from the side. Tons of storage up there, for boxes, Christmas decorations, tubs of FJ25 parts, large stamp collections, small farm animals, back issues of Reader's Digest, bulk ammunition, War of 1812 memorabilia, Precious Moments caracatures, and your latest grain seed cross insemination projects. And you can still park landcruisers under it. Also consider a cheap lift, look in Hemmings some of them serve as a lift and elevated vehicle storage, with the ability to park under it. Some come with drip pans; but none of my trucks drip (yeah, right. )
Brian,
On the in floor heat thing; my Dad did it in our basement in the U.P. It's incredible how he mapped every inch of it and has the "radiator" set up in our utility room.
If you have any Q's about it, let me know.
It's an AWESOME thing to do.
On the in floor heat thing; my Dad did it in our basement in the U.P. It's incredible how he mapped every inch of it and has the "radiator" set up in our utility room.
If you have any Q's about it, let me know.
It's an AWESOME thing to do.
Woody,
How about a review of the HotDawg heater? How much you pay and would you recommend it?
How about a review of the HotDawg heater? How much you pay and would you recommend it?
- Thread starter
- #38
damn, back from the dregs!!
I don't recall anymore what the HotDawg cost, but I fired it up this week while I changed oil in the 80...first time I touched it since last winter. Turn on the 100# propane tank, switch on the heater, and within minutes there was nice hot air blowing....wonderful. Thus far, I've been really pleased with it.
Last year it cost about $150 to heat the shop (2-1/2 or so tanks)....30x36 with 3 vehicles in it.
Still in decision mode on the house and new shop plans.... housplan updates available at http://www.ih8mud.com/houseplan/ --it's close
I don't recall anymore what the HotDawg cost, but I fired it up this week while I changed oil in the 80...first time I touched it since last winter. Turn on the 100# propane tank, switch on the heater, and within minutes there was nice hot air blowing....wonderful. Thus far, I've been really pleased with it.
Last year it cost about $150 to heat the shop (2-1/2 or so tanks)....30x36 with 3 vehicles in it.
Still in decision mode on the house and new shop plans.... housplan updates available at http://www.ih8mud.com/houseplan/ --it's close
woody said:
Precisely why SEARCH comes in handy
and it's always good to go back and read older posts.Thanks for the info. Finally putting in new lights this week and hopefully heat soon. Now that I finally have room to work in the garage I need to eliminate the rest of the excuses.
Junk,
Just to clarify, my Pops (Mitch, 3FE) builds Timber Frame homes, not "pole barns"
check out Archtimb.com for further clarification.
If that does'nt work for you just head east of Men.......uhBuggerville to the Bergen County Zoo to see some of his work in person.
Kevin R.
Just to clarify, my Pops (Mitch, 3FE) builds Timber Frame homes, not "pole barns"
check out Archtimb.com for further clarification.
If that does'nt work for you just head east of Men.......uhBuggerville to the Bergen County Zoo to see some of his work in person.
Kevin R.