New Seiken 44610-60792 brake booster?

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May I ask if you still stand behind the Seiken brake booster? I'm in the same predicament and about to pull the trigger even though their prices have gone up significantly from October even. I just can't see paying OEM prices. Thanks in advance for any help and consideration.

Zero issues so far and at least 50k miles since installed.
 
Purchased my Seiken booster in July last year for $379. No issues but did have to tilt the engine to get the booster past the intake manifold.
 
I picked mine up here over the winter...I'd check with them as they seem to come in and out of stock pretty regularly, so there may be some coming soon.

For install, I was able to get it in there without lifting the motor, but it is a tight fit that you need to be patient with to make it work.

 
Has anyone pulled off a booster swap without having to rebleed the system? Meaning somehow pulling MC far enough forward to be out of the way enough to pull booster out without having to remove brake hard lines from MC?

I’m due to replace booster-it’s showing the signs of random hard brake pedal. Doing vacuum check valve first but mentally preparing for a booster replacement.
 
Has anyone pulled off a booster swap without having to rebleed the system? Meaning somehow pulling MC far enough forward to be out of the way enough to pull booster out without having to remove brake hard lines from MC?

Brett- Assuming your lines are rust free/good condition, yes absolutely you can. I just did mine a few months ago this way. Just gently pull it forward and be gentle with the brake lines. There is room, albeit a bit tight, to replace the booster without needing to crack the system open.
 
Has anyone pulled off a booster swap without having to rebleed the system? Meaning somehow pulling MC far enough forward to be out of the way enough to pull booster out without having to remove brake hard lines from MC?

I’m due to replace booster-it’s showing the signs of random hard brake pedal. Doing vacuum check valve first but mentally preparing for a booster replacement.
Yes, I've done this on mine.
I highly recommend Toyota booster to make sure you have the right thing.

You will need two gaskets as well. One for the booster to firewall and one booster to MC.

I was able to get mine out and in without disconnecting and engine mount. I did have to do some booster calisthenics to find the exact Tetris combination to get it out, then exact reverse to get it back in.

I spent more time trying to get the four bolts through the firewall than I did on anything else. I think it took me about four hours. I'm slow and meticulous and I forgot a gasket.

Then I had to figure out how to measure the interior rod to get it properly adjusted on the new booster during assembly.
 
I did mine a couple of months ago without having to bleed. I pulled the master forward out of the way (slightly bending brake lines) while working.

I bought from CruiserYard, exact same part as Toyota sells, comes with both gaskets, ships fast, and supports a fellow mud member's business.

I couldn't remove mine without the trick of loosening the driver side engine mount and jacking it up a coupe of inches. It makes removal and installation easy (no intake plenum removal required).

Reinstallation goes FAST if you have a second set of hands to align the pedal bracket on the inside and install the nuts by hand. It is the difference between a couple of minutes and hours f*ing around solo.
 
After doing mine a while back, I replaced the master as well. I think I’d unbolt the engine mount and makes some more space if I didn’t want to re-bleed the system. The exact angle needed to remove and reinstall the booster was not easy to find. That or I just didn’t get lucky? And yah some extra hands will save time. Especially if they are small and are connected to arms with 3 elbows for the interior hardware.
 
Having a helper was big on the install, I did mine when I deleted the ABS and LSPV and needed the extra hand from the cab side for about 10 mins while we wiggled the new one in. Took a couple of tries and one or two head scratches but it went in, there was definitely an angle of attack where it worked.
 
FYI, I am now including the brake lamp switch cushion on all Seiken booster orders going forward. Price is not changing, but it’s a critical small part as I found out a few months ago on my 80. The stop lamp switch will not work properly without this rubber pad. You can rip the old one out, the new one just pushes in, really easy.

Added to the description:

Also included is a new OEM Stop Lamp Switch Cushion. This is the rubber cushion that attaches to brake pedal that the brake lamp switch touches. We've found that these are very brittle due to age and if you need to adjust your brake pedal or accidentally hit it, the cushion will break which prevents you from adjusting the stop lamp switch, thus causing your brake lights to stay on! Ask us how we know :)
 
Thanks Onur. Yea, when my broke, if I did not have CY where I could grab a spare, my 80 would have been out of commission for up to a week, dealers don’t stock these.
 
Thanks Onur. Yea, when my broke, if I did not have CY where I could grab a spare, my 80 would have been out of commission for up to a week, dealers don’t stock these.
Most dealers don't stock s*** for 80's, lucky to find an oil filter on the shelf at mine. My local dealer sucks so bad they had to order in an air filer for my 250.
 
Well, sad news. The Seiken booster is NLA for the 80s. Side note, the 3rd Gen 4runner booster was discontinued 5-6 months ago as well. Perhaps they will rekindle it sometime but it appears dead for now. I have numerous parts sources and they all confirmed too.

I have a few that I was able to get but will probably keep most of them for future needs. It appears the best option is OEM is now, albeit at a higher price point.

Let this be a reminder that if you need something, try not to put it off as it may be too late.
 
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