New Ride: 67 Stout

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I have a 66 stout have some extra parts
 
I also have some stock rims if needed
 
Thanks Forrest - -

I am moving back to stock or FJ40 rims on my restore.


Tore into the bed this weekend

Stock Bumper off:

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Bed in the turtle position. Used a knotted wire wheel on an angle grinder. Still have about half to do:

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Turkeypen said:
Bed in the turtle position. Used a knotted wire wheel on an angle grinder. Still have about half to do:
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That's tedious work. Did the same on my trailer and can't emphasize enough the need for safety goggles and leather gloves when handling a wire wheel. :eek:
 
and a good partical mask. The first one I used was the el cheapo paint mask resulting in sinus infection. Lowes has an upgraded disposable partical mask from 3M with a valve and it contours to your face, not to mention multiple fibrous layers. After 3 hours yesterday, the outside of the mask was rust colored along with my body, but the inside was white. The snot rocket test proved no mask penetration. Gloves, Mask, Hat, Mask, and (just for JP) Shoes are a must.

Remember when we were taking Alex's 40 down to metal and Alex caught a wire between the eyes? Good times . . . .
 
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Turkeypen said:
and a good partical mask. The first one I used was the el cheapo paint mask resulting in sinus infection. Lowes has an upgraded disposable partical mask from 3M with a valve and it contours to your face, not to mention multiple fibrous layers. After 3 hours yesterday, the outside of the mask was rust colored along with my body, but the inside was white. The snot rocket test proved no mask penetration. Gloves, Mask, Hat, Mask, and (just for JP) Shoes are a must.

Remember when we were taking Alex's 40 down to metal and Alex caught a wire between the eyes? Good times . . . .
Click to expand...

I remember that day...Alex always seemed to catch a piece of wire in the face when ever he uses one...I've got a face shield I use
 
Looks like Forrest5000 has a set of stout wheels! UC rocks!:clap:


Using the cupped and knotted wire wheel, I'm getting fewer "airborne" wires and much quicker rust removal. Hooked up to an angle grinder it flies. Wish I had learned that trick before we did jays "barn find" 40.
 
I should be through with the bed by Wednesday, and the frame and axle should be straight forward. The only delicate part is refinishing the gas tank (aka the surplus jerry cans Mr. Toyoda had left over from the war.) Already empty, I plan on disconnecting it and putting it on my bench for hand sanding, priming, and painting. No that's not a hole, but original finish where the pad was between the frame and the tank. Any idea on what to replace those pads with? Looked like some sort of batting, perhaps heat and friction resistant.


Those shocks may have to go too .....

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David, those pads were just good ole felt, or atleast that is what all my 60's Land Cruisers have had. Also I would consider using this product to reseal your tank (http://www.por15.com/FUEL-TANK-REPAIR-KIT/productinfo/FTRK/ ) since you are already going through all the trouble of removing it why not make sure the inside is good for years to come :beer:

keep up the good work!!
 
Good call JP! (ps Congrats on the rugrat!!:cheers: Welcome to the ultimate club) How hard was it to use that POR product on your tank?
 
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Turkeypen said:
Good call JP! (ps Congrats on the rugrat!!:cheers: Welcome to the ultimate club) How hard was it to use that POR product on your tank?
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It's not that hard. But that being said I'd remove the sender and look inside and see what you have. If its clean I'd just run it. If it was rusty I'd take it to a radiator shop and have it boiled. It's not much and considering it's rarity I'd spend a little to get a good job. They usually can line it for you as well. I had a 55 tank done this way. I lined my own 40 tank.
 
Thanks Marshall - - good ideas all around. When I drained the fuel, I drained into an oil change pan, letting particals settle to the bottom. There were very few and I poured the liquid gold into my 40, then wiped away the particals. Very few rust flakes, almost none.

This brings up another issue. My stout still has the glass fuel filter. Looks like that device could be eliminated and a modern fuel filter installed. Am I missing something? Also, same deal with the cartridge oil filter.

While I am into resto and little mod, I think those modern upgrades would be appropriate.

Also, can I just bang those nasty shocks off and take them to an auto parts store and get a similar size, or is it more scientific?

This is really fun!
 
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Thanks Steve, will do! Forrest 5000 is bringing stout wheels to Asheville tomorrow. This is really working out.

Got about an hours worth of bed work done tonight. Two thirds done, and hopefully finished tomorrow after work. Then I can move into the garage to work on the frame.

Settling down with a scotch and soda to watch the debate. Sort of like the old WWF.
 
Keep the glass filter. The filters are still available from Toyota.

David if you need any parts zinc plated let me know. For under 100 I can get a 5 gallon bucket full plated. As long as they are paint free and don't have big chunks of rubber. It really changes the look.
 
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I have model numbers and an extra shock when I switched mine had to return one they sent two
 
The underside of the Bed is done, and I have moved on to the frame. The rear frame is de-rustified, primed (primer is brown), and half-way painted. The great thing about doing this is you really get to know your truck and what it needs. So far, this is my shopping list:

1. New Shocks;
2. New Diff Filler and Drain Plugs;
3. New Straps for Fuel Tank;
4. Powder Coat Original Rims (Thanks Eric!!), and new tires (read here tall); and
5. Muffler/ Tail Piper (Read here Magnaflow)

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