Have you tried really advancing it? Like just keep going to see if it gets happier. Like better idle, better vacuum. Then worry about pre ignition later. Just a thought
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I’ve had it relatively all over the map in the last couple attempts.Have you tried really advancing it? Like just keep going to see if it gets happier. Like better idle, better vacuum. Then worry about pre ignition later. Just a thought
Hmm.Its sounds like there's something wrong with the carbs idle circuit or you have a vacuum leak.
There are 2 marks on the flywheel, a bb and a tdc mark. If your going to use the bb which represents 7* b4 top dead center(btdc) when its lined up with pointer in the window, adjust the strobe light function to 0 when using the bb.
The light doesn't adjust the timing, it tells where the timing is set. To use the strobe adjustment function you use the tdc mark on the flywheel. Adjust the light up or down until the tdc flywheel mark lines up with the pointer in the window. When they are lined up the # on the light is where the timing is set. Let us know what that # is.
The problem is, I don’t know what I’m looking at. They all look relatively the same to me. I’ve heard an early to mid 70s would be best, but there’s all sorts of brackets, riser, air filter top, etc that I need to change if I go that route. That’s how I ended up with my current carburetor-it worked with all my existing stuff.I saw 3 x early carbs at Perry's Farm the previous year. (I picked one up with a date code 6/70).
Both of them I think are talking about putting something together for me (via a Facebook thread), but I don’t want to bother them." I know it may sound lazy, but I’m trying to be realistic." I get it. It's not being lazy but more cautious.
Next time you go, speak with Georg @orangefj45 or any of Georg's crew or Rob Tygart @landcrusher909 to get their advice if you see a carb that might work. I think you have plenty of pics for reference. I would make an educated guess after looking back at your carb pics it appears to be connected at all the same spots as mine so it may not have any funny business going on.
Some of the vendor's have no idea what they are selling and just there to make $$. I ran into this dilemma when I asked a vendor about a rear step (early vs later fj40's) and they had know idea what they had.
There’s no vacuum running to or from the carb or distributor but anything is possible.Plug all your vacuum ports I.E brake booster, manifold, carb base ports, dizzy advance and take them out of the equation and plug them in one at a time.
I see you have a 69 fj40, you could have a vacuum leak at your 4wd actuator which is vacuum operated. And or the check valve at the drivers side. Anything is a possibility.
Get a vacuum gauge.
I had some bad connections on my fuse block cleaned them connections up and makes a a difference.There’s no vacuum running to or from the carb or distributor but anything is possible.
I can go through the fuse block, but it’s newer and everything else works as it should, there’s no electrical going to the carburetor. Good ideas, I appreciate the input!![]()
The electrical doesn’t have to be associated with the carb. It could make seem like it is the carb but comes down to being the ignition system. And that can throw you for a loop.There’s no vacuum running to or from the carb or distributor but anything is possible.
I can go through the fuse block, but it’s newer and everything else works as it should, there’s no electrical going to the carburetor. Good ideas, I appreciate the input!![]()
That’s what I’m trying to do but it’s not working.
There’s probably a vacuum leak that is throwing it off.