Cruiser parts seems to have it for $10. 78199-90352 Double check me and make sure you ask them before ordering it
New (old) addition to the stable
- Thread starter S.CarolinaFZJ80
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #102
I forgot all about this thread that I started when I got this 40...
Here's some updates from the past few years
-Repainted all of the lettering on the dash knobs and heater vent control panel
-Added a dealer option Toyota CB40F CB radio. The factory console had matching holes for the mounting bracket so I'm guessing this was installed the original dealership. One step closer to how she left the show room floor.
- Replaced the coolant and windshield washer bottles with toyota parts from CityRacer LLC. Also cleaned off the switch contacts to get the washer working again.
- Made brass swing out bushings to replace the worn out plastic ones. This cut down on some vibrations from the carrier. Many more rattles to address in the future.
Here's some updates from the past few years
-Repainted all of the lettering on the dash knobs and heater vent control panel
-Added a dealer option Toyota CB40F CB radio. The factory console had matching holes for the mounting bracket so I'm guessing this was installed the original dealership. One step closer to how she left the show room floor.
- Replaced the coolant and windshield washer bottles with toyota parts from CityRacer LLC. Also cleaned off the switch contacts to get the washer working again.
- Made brass swing out bushings to replace the worn out plastic ones. This cut down on some vibrations from the carrier. Many more rattles to address in the future.
- Thread starter
- #103
- I also added a @Barn find Rear hitch and rear step.
- Found and installed 1979 tagged rear seat belts
- found and installed the correct airhorn that was missing when I bought it.
- Replaced the EGR cooler, J-pipe and throttle firewall boot.
- Found and installed 1979 tagged rear seat belts
- found and installed the correct airhorn that was missing when I bought it.
- Replaced the EGR cooler, J-pipe and throttle firewall boot.
- Thread starter
- #104
- I drove it a bit and enjoyed it.
- I also found a working, year correct AM radio. Factory plugs were still intact as were the dash mounts.
- I also found a working, year correct AM radio. Factory plugs were still intact as were the dash mounts.
- Thread starter
- #105
- Replaced the seatbelt relay.
- Added a Hi-Lift jack mount.
- cleaned up and rebuilt the brake calipers.
- added the correct rear mat and jump seat straps.
- Added a Hi-Lift jack mount.
- cleaned up and rebuilt the brake calipers.
- added the correct rear mat and jump seat straps.
- Thread starter
- #106
- added the Toyota Koito H4 headlights and wiring harness
- removed the winch tray and added a bracket behind the factory bumper to clean it up a little.
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- removed the winch tray and added a bracket behind the factory bumper to clean it up a little.
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- Thread starter
- #107
I forgot that I also replaced the power steering pump earlier this year too. I got one from Rock Auto. Oddly the reservoir was for a right hand drive. I just reused the original reservoir but replaced the o-ring.
If anyone needs a zinc plated RHD reservoir, let me know.
If anyone needs a zinc plated RHD reservoir, let me know.
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Was the Rockauto pump a rebuilt Toyota pump, or has your truck been converted to saginaw? If Toyota, do you happen to have the Rockauto part number you used? The PS pump on my '82 40 whines and groans like crazy.
- Thread starter
- #109
I believe it was a rebuilt Toyota pump as it was identical to my factory power steering pump.
no Saginaw here, I lucked out with the factory setup.
I chose buying a rebuilt pump versus rebuild due to the rumored, unobtanium, brass bushing that would wear and lead to leaking again shortly after rebuild.
Looks like it was a Lares 2812 for $70.79+$45 core exchange.
no Saginaw here, I lucked out with the factory setup.
I chose buying a rebuilt pump versus rebuild due to the rumored, unobtanium, brass bushing that would wear and lead to leaking again shortly after rebuild.
Looks like it was a Lares 2812 for $70.79+$45 core exchange.
- Thread starter
- #110
@roadstr6
It looks like the price went up $10 and it's only a rebuild service now.
*Edit- Rock auto still has the BBB brand reman pumps for sale
It looks like the price went up $10 and it's only a rebuild service now.
*Edit- Rock auto still has the BBB brand reman pumps for sale
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Oh well...Thanks for the info, Sam.
- Thread starter
- #112
Sure. I have a spare rebuild kit for the factory pump if you want to rebuild yours.
I just might try it. What have I got to lose? If it leaks, I’ll go reman’d or maybe do Kurt’s Saginaw mod.
- Thread starter
- #114
Does anyone have a useable FJ60 distributor, cover plate and coil/ignitor that they'd like to get rid of?
- Thread starter
- #115
Does anyone have a spare ignitor assembly that I can borrow to swap into my '79?
I've swapped coils, rotor and wire still no worky. Just trying to trouble shoot.
Thanks
I've swapped coils, rotor and wire still no worky. Just trying to trouble shoot.
Thanks
just quit all of a sudden? No spark? Weird. No ignition parts here, bud. If I had them I would share them.
- Thread starter
- #117
Pretty much. She just quit while idling so due to a previously rich setting I know the plugs were fouled so I swapped them out with new plugs, cap & rotor. She idled for a bit then quit while out on a drive. Spark or fuel?
Smells like fuel after trying to start her. So spark issue it must be.
Smells like fuel after trying to start her. So spark issue it must be.
Did you take the carb off for any reason? If you did and if you have a paper gasket between the carb and insulator, your carb butterfly may be hanging open on the gasket. You may need to trim it. I had this once. Rafael ran into this recently too. Fuel cut solenoid clicks with key on, right?
- Thread starter
- #119
The carb hasn't been off in a long while. Yes, I get the idle solenoid click with the key turned in.
I swapped in a new Napa coil, no joy, so I swapped back in the old rotor. No worky. Then swapped out the old coil to rotor cap wire. Tested that I had spark then hooked her back up and she started right up and idled for thirty seconds then died.
I tested the new Yazaki coil to cap wire and it has no continuity. Wonder if it burnt out the wire so I tested the old wire and it to has no continuity.
Any ideas?
I swapped in a new Napa coil, no joy, so I swapped back in the old rotor. No worky. Then swapped out the old coil to rotor cap wire. Tested that I had spark then hooked her back up and she started right up and idled for thirty seconds then died.
I tested the new Yazaki coil to cap wire and it has no continuity. Wonder if it burnt out the wire so I tested the old wire and it to has no continuity.
Any ideas?
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Fuel pump. Fuel filter. I always troubleshoot with a new filter.