New (old) addition to the stable

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

@Comet
Thanks for the tip. I have a new mechanical fuel pump here and hopefully a fuel filter.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

I ohm'd out the coil to rotor wires yesterday. Yielded different numbers but they are also different lengths and thicknesses. I'm guessing a simple continuity check was not a good indication if the wire is good though. The Yazaki ohm'd at 12.97 while the other shorter was at 1.98

 

[Comet]

Start with the filter.

 

[angerhater]

If you don’t get continuity, then that is a problem

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

So fuel filter looks good and clear. Minimal sediment at the bottom.

I tried staring with some starting fluid to no avail.
So I tested the spark again with a fully charged battery and I'm getting no spark from the plug wires and only a small spark from the coil to rotor wire but only when the starter is turned on or off. No spark while cranking. This is with the new Napa coil and both the new Yazaki coil to rotor wire and old crusty coil to rotor wire.

I'll swap in the original coil tomorrow and see if I can get more spark. If not, I'll have to check out all the connections to the ignitor box. I recently cleaned all of them and coated with a thin coat of dielectric grease though.

 

[mountainibis]

I don’t know much about 40s, so sorry if this is an ignorant question. Are there any fusible links in the ignition wiring? If there is one, I wonder if you could jump around it and see what happens.

I hate chasing electrical issues, so I feel your pain. Hope you’re able to figure it out.

 

[Rice]

Worth consideration .... test to find out if there is a dead spot in the ignition switch.

Pull off the clamshell and (carefully) run an alligator clip jumper from the +12V solder joint to the "run" solder joint. Then see if it starts.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

I don’t know much about 40s, so sorry if this is an ignorant question. Are there any fusible links in the ignition wiring? If there is one, I wonder if you could jump around it and see what happens.

I hate chasing electrical issues, so I feel your pain. Hope you’re able to figure it out.

Thanks for the help. I did check the fusible links and clean the contacts at the same time that I cleaned most of the other contacts a few weeks ago...
I'll disconnect those again and spray some contact cleaner in there. Maybe I didn't get all of the moisture out.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Worth consideration .... test to find out if there is a dead spot in the ignition switch.

Pull off the clamshell and (carefully) run an alligator clip jumper from the +12V solder joint to the "run" solder joint. Then see if it starts.

That's some good stuff right there! I'll give that a go tomorrow too. It'll give me a chance to replace my cracked clamshell with the non-cracked one thats been on my shelf.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

The Easter Bunny left me a present. I haven't got anything from him in awhile, it's about time he made up for lost time.
Happy Easter everyone!

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Got her up and running again. It turned out to be a bad ignitor box.

I added an ignitor from a 79 Corolla and she runs great. I had to make an adapter as the ignitor's distributor plug was the same as the Landcruiser distributor.

I got the brake warning light to function correctly and adjusted the idle and mixture.

It's like a top now but now my blinkers don't work.

It's always something. I guess I'll be pulling the hazard switch and cleaning that up as the blinkers get power through it.
-Edit - I got the turn signals working. I just cycled the Hazard switch several times to clean off the contacts.

E

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

I also made some new battery cables with some left over 1 AWG. Made a make shift fusible link to cover down under my @Coolerman links arrive, replaced the rear lock and got some TEQ keys from @ToyotaMatt

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

The original battery tray had woven straps like the jump seat straps insulating the battery tray from the mounting bracket. I guess they held in moisture and battery acid contributing to the demise of the original tray. I made some new pads with scrap rubber and used left over bolts from my 80 to bolt the tray down. (Pictured in post #131)

 

[ToyotaMatt]

you mean these keys ................

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

you mean these keys ................
Yup those same ones. I still need to install the driver side lock gasket. Passenger side is all in.

View attachment 2285155

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

I replaced the carb cooling fan fuse. It hard the original Pacific red 5 amp fuse burnt out. I removed the cooling fan switch control box and cleaned out the dust, debris and contacts. I checked continuity at the thermosister and have good continuity through the wire to the housing. I am guessing the relay may be bad.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I have spent hours and hours trying to solve the carb cooling fan timer Riddle .....

I went to Home Depot got a 30 minute wind up mechanical spring type timer for a bath fam

9mm hole in dash perfect

came with a back dial knob

so I run it all the time driving

Park at Home Depot for a quickie grab and go must haves

And wind her up

after 30 minutes ....

fan off

carb and manifolds cool

everything is safe and as it should be


eazy peezy

And highly recommend alternative parts use application I find perfect for me in every way


screw the thermistor !

 

[fjc-man]

I replaced the carb cooling fan fuse. It hard the original Pacific red 5 amp fuse burnt out. I removed the cooling fan switch control box and cleaned out the dust, debris and contacts. I checked continuity at the thermosister and have good continuity through the wire to the housing. I am guessing the relay may be bad.

Did you try jumping power and ground to blower directly? I am not even going to ask if you checked the solder joints in the control box......sorry, I had to.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Did you try jumping power and ground to blower directly? I am not even going to ask if you checked the solder joints in the control box......sorry, I had to.

I didn't test the fan yet but it's easy enough to do. I figured I'd check the fuse 1st. I did check all of the solders on the control switch circuit board and they were all good. I sprayed some Kroil on the thermsister hardware and will take it off to clean it up in a few days after a few heat cycles and applications of Kroil. Meanwhile I'll go through my junkyard toyota relay box and see if I can find a match to the relay.
If none of this works I may just wire up a manual/timer switch to run it's @ToyotaMatt suggested.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Well no need to mod the carb fan.

I tested the fan and it worked, so I pulled the thermos sensor and cleaned it up with a dremel wire brush the polished it with Zephyr 40 and a buffing wheel. It was covered with a mm worth of grease an caked on exhaust gas.
Here's the before and after.