Uh oh! Can of worms officially opened. Be prepared for manifold sealing issues. FWIW Quality Auto Machine in Monroe did a good job resurfacing my manifolds.
Last edited:
New (old) addition to the stable (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter S.CarolinaFZJ80
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Uh oh! Can of worms officially opened. Be prepared for manifold sealing issues. FWIW Quality Auto Machine in Monroe did a good job resurfacing my manifolds.
- Thread starter
- #42
The whole thing is coming out in one piece. Hopefully, it's just a 38 year old gasket failure. Air pump was blocked and disabled too. Also need a heatriser bracket/elbow as this one is just about rusted through.
Been there, done that (on my 60). The manifolds will likely need to be resurfaced as a unit in order to get a good seal to the head. When you remove them, lay the whole piece on a flat table and check that every runner (I & E) sits completely flat. They tend to warp over time. Shine a flashlight behind each runner to check or use a feeler gauge. If they are not pretty dang flat, you will have another leak. The air pump is a known failure point as they can seize up under load and you lose whatever works on the same belt. If it were me, I would either gut the vanes out of the pump (if that hasn't already been done) or replace it with a dummy pulley. Jim Chenoweth sells the dummy pulley, air rail plugs and other various desmog pieces. Good luck, man. I feel your pain.
- Thread starter
- #44
As for good news, I scored a '79 driver seatbelt and a period correct Toyota CB40M from @Cruiser804.
I also scored a new front bumper from @webman
I also scored a new front bumper from @webman
- Thread starter
- #45
Thanks for the info. The pump lines were plugged with metal plugs and there was no belt tensioner on the air pump. Are these a sign of Chenowith's de-smog?
It has probably been de-vaned but not necessarily so. You might want to pull those plugs and spin the pump by hand to see if it blows air. If it does, de-vane it. What happens is the carbon fins in the vanes disintegrate and pieces fall into the works and jam it up. I assume you are not trying to make smog work on your truck, but maybe just trying to make it look like it does? If you don't care about factory appearance, it sure does clean things up in the bay to rip all that smog stuff out and do a total desmog.
- Thread starter
- #47
I found Jim Chenowith's desmog page.
Here's the link for anyone who needs it for reference. His mud handle is @FJ40Jim
Desmog components
TLC Performance Land Cruiser Restoration and Service FJ40 FJ60
Here's the link for anyone who needs it for reference. His mud handle is @FJ40Jim
Desmog components
TLC Performance Land Cruiser Restoration and Service FJ40 FJ60
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #48
Thanks for the info about the pump. I'll have a look and check the vanes.
I was really happy with the difference between my old smog equipped 2f vs desmoged. Jimc pully is pretty solid and he is a super helpful guy.
Made me feel like I didn't have to worry as much about all the misc vacuum lines and all that. I hated chasing vacuum leaks in my last 60.
- Thread starter
- #50
I am leaning this way now
- Thread starter
- #51
I almost forgot to post up Marshall's @Trollhole compression numbers for the 40 from my pre-buy inspection.
1- 151
2- 150
3- 150
4- 145
5- 140
6- 151
1- 151
2- 150
3- 150
4- 145
5- 140
6- 151
Sam, Here's how it went on my 60 and why I referred to what you are doing as a can of worms. Your results may vary. I hope they do anyway:
It all started when the EGR J pipe on the exhaust had a pesky leak. Pfft..pfft..pfft.
Had to remove the manifolds to access the rusty and fragile bolts on the J pipe.
Broke the EGR cooler pipe to manifold in the process of removing the manifold.
Broke the rusty air pump pipe.
Broke a rusty air rail to head connection.
Replacements for the busted smog parts were damn near impossible to find.
Decided smog wasn't worth it and decided to go full desmog.
Bought the full monty from JimC.
Everything came out. Air pump replaced by pulley. All ports plugged and/or capped. Trollhole carb replaced OEM.
Re-installed manifolds because I thought they looked okay only to immediately find a leak.
Pulled everything back off. Had manifold machined. Re-installed and no leaks.
Distributor re-curve.
IIRC the only vacuum items left on my truck are distributor advance, brake booster, carb secondary and AC idle-up. You won't need the AC idle up. I kept the catalytic converter. It keeps the smell down. Some say it robs power. I may remove it eventually. The 60 needs full use of all the power it can muster...which is not much anyway.
It all started when the EGR J pipe on the exhaust had a pesky leak. Pfft..pfft..pfft.
Had to remove the manifolds to access the rusty and fragile bolts on the J pipe.
Broke the EGR cooler pipe to manifold in the process of removing the manifold.
Broke the rusty air pump pipe.
Broke a rusty air rail to head connection.
Replacements for the busted smog parts were damn near impossible to find.
Decided smog wasn't worth it and decided to go full desmog.
Bought the full monty from JimC.
Everything came out. Air pump replaced by pulley. All ports plugged and/or capped. Trollhole carb replaced OEM.
Re-installed manifolds because I thought they looked okay only to immediately find a leak.
Pulled everything back off. Had manifold machined. Re-installed and no leaks.
Distributor re-curve.
IIRC the only vacuum items left on my truck are distributor advance, brake booster, carb secondary and AC idle-up. You won't need the AC idle up. I kept the catalytic converter. It keeps the smell down. Some say it robs power. I may remove it eventually. The 60 needs full use of all the power it can muster...which is not much anyway.
That looks good though. One thing I was told before the EGR block off is get your mind ready for the likely bolt snap.... that's why I plugged the end and left mine on lol not as clean looking but didn't have to deal with that headache.
I recall u were hunting for a radio delete plate. I see one in the classifieds for $60. Hope this helps.
For Sale - 40 series radio delete plate
For Sale - 40 series radio delete plate
- Thread starter
- #55
Thanks Dave. I'm about where you were on the 60. The EGR and air rail are pretty corroded up. Penetrating oil and several heat cycles will hopefully get it all off. I think I'm going to order the de-smog kit and pulley from Jim. Now would be the time to remove that stuff while I'm in there. I too am keeping the cat. Actually replaced the aftermarket one that was on there as it was clogged.
I have the factory air but its non functional. The AC idle up might be needed after I get that working again. I'll have to look into that.
As for the choke, were these equipped with an auto choke or am I confusing that with the AC idle up mechanism?
- Thread starter
- #56
Thanks for sharing your experiences with your 2F. I'm keeping fingers crossed that no bolts snap but then again, I've snapped my fair share on other Toyotas that I have owned.
- Thread starter
- #57
I was. Thanks for the heads up on this one. It's on it's way.
AC idle up requires a VSV (vacuum switching valve)
On the 60 it is on the driver side inner fender. It has two ports and an electrically operated valve. One side gets constant manifold vacuum but the switch blocks the vacuum from actuating the idle up diaphram on the carb until you hit the AC button on the dash. Then the suckage goes through the switch to the diaphram and tugs on the idle circuit linkage on the carb. If you decide to go Trollhole carb in the future you can remove and re-install the idle up diaphram onto the Trollhole. It's a simple swap.
It's going to be a manual choke. The fancy late model choke cables with the indicator light on the dash have a tendency to pull loose inside and stop working but when they work, they work very well. They can usually be fixed with a little solder. If you pull your choke and nothing happens, take it apart and fix it. They are kinda pricey to buy new if you can even find one.
- Thread starter
- #59
Thanks. The AC idle up diaphram on my carb was disconnected from the linkage. I was thinking that might be for an auto choke. My manual one is working well.
In case you wondered. I did say suckage. It's redneck-ese of which I am fluent.
