New LX470

[gholsie]

Gholsie's LX470 Thread

Hi guys, pretty new here, I just purchased an '00 LX470. Nice ride and was very well taken care of by PO. Has all records and even shows every single oil change. Very good buy, IMHO for $13,500 and only 118k miles.

A few questions to start off.

1) Drivers door will unlock but will not lock completely.
I've noticed that I cannot lock the door using the electronic locks (either remote or via the door lock button on the inside of the car). However, the strange thing is it will UNLOCK just fine (using button or the remote. I took off the panel today and listened for a click or even a slight electronic noise when trying to lock the door, and it just seems the car is not trying to lock the drivers door. I can hear a definite click when it unlocks. Anyway, when I set the remote to lock, all other doors lock. When I lock the door manually using the key, the alarm will beep and the door locks fine. Do you guys have any idea why it would not lock, but, unlocks just fine?

2) Both of the driving/fog lights are NOT turning on. I tried looking at the fuse in the engine compartment, but, it's fine. I replaced it anyway, but they still won't turn on. Is there another fuse or possible that a solenoid went out?

3) Tire Size. What kind of wheels/tires are you guys running on the LX series with the ride height adjustments? I'm looking to go more agressive but not mudbogger style. My driving is mostly street/highway but want to take this guy off road on the weekends (dirt and trail, no mud).

4) Stereo System. Any recommendations on the stereo replacement? I have the Nakimichi (sp?) system without the navigation and there seems to be a double-din size hole where I can mount a nice touch screen.

Thanks guys, and I'm excited to get into some trail riding. FYI, I'm in the Eugene Oregon area if any of you want to get together.

Mike

 

[NKP Garage]

Congrats on the purchase. Looks like a very clean one. For tires 33s are an easy upgrade on the LX470. For the stereo everyone will have a different opinion, personally I prefer my audio simple, stock headunit with good component speakers, a subwoofer and a good amp (maybe two).

 

[Wilsil]

That's a blank canvass to start with.
Great car.
For the door lock, do a search and you will find heaps of info. It is probably the door lock motor inside the panel.
I also notice now that the US LX specs have a different headlight, with the indicator next to it.
Mine doesn't have it.

 

[Kigiin]

Ugly color, ask me how I know.

90k service?

 

[re_guderian]

Hi guys, pretty new here, I just purchased an '00 LX470. Nice ride and was very well taken care of by PO. Has all records and even shows every single oil change. Very good buy, IMHO for $13,500 and only 118k miles.

A few questions to start off.

1) Drivers door will unlock but will not lock completely.
I've noticed that I cannot lock the door using the electronic locks (either remote or via the door lock button on the inside of the car). However, the strange thing is it will UNLOCK just fine (using button or the remote. I took off the panel today and listened for a click or even a slight electronic noise when trying to lock the door, and it just seems the car is not trying to lock the drivers door. I can hear a definite click when it unlocks. Anyway, when I set the remote to lock, all other doors lock. When I lock the door manually using the key, the alarm will beep and the door locks fine. Do you guys have any idea why it would not lock, but, unlocks just fine?

2) Both of the driving/fog lights are NOT turning on. I tried looking at the fuse in the engine compartment, but, it's fine. I replaced it anyway, but they still won't turn on. Is there another fuse or possible that a solenoid went out?

3) Tire Size. What kind of wheels/tires are you guys running on the LX series with the ride height adjustments? I'm looking to go more agressive but not mudbogger style. My driving is mostly street/highway but want to take this guy off road on the weekends (dirt and trail, no mud).

4) Stereo System. Any recommendations on the stereo replacement? I have the Nakimichi (sp?) system without the navigation and there seems to be a double-din size hole where I can mount a nice touch screen.

Thanks guys, and I'm excited to get into some trail riding. FYI, I'm in the Eugene Oregon area if any of you want to get together.

Mike

Welcome!

1) is addressed in the FAQ -> https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/237827-door-lock-actuator-replacement.html#post3622917. This is a fairly common problem, and not just with LC's. Hot weather will make it worse. If you're at all mechanically inclined, you can save a bundle o' cash by doing this yourself.

2) I don't know the specifics, but I do know the factory Electrical Wiring Diagram (EWD) book is one of the best fifty bucks you'll spend. Try www.books4cars.com, though 2000 is getting pretty old for what they might stock. Check e-bay. Makes troubleshooting these types of issues WAY easier.

3) So much personal preference and current/recent threads that I won't add any value here.

4) I put a Kenwood GPS/DVD system in my LC. I "think" the LX w/o Nav should be compatible with most double DIN head units. I got mine from Crutchfield. NOTHING will bring your truck into the current decade, dollar-for-dollar better than a HU with better sound, BlueTooth hands-free calling, BlueTooth streaming audio, GPS, rear-view camera, Sirius/XM, and a DVD player (if you have kids/grandkids of that age). It is a huge part of your driving experience. Depending on how crazy you get with accessories (camera and DVD overhead add complexity) the install is pretty darn straightforward. If you're an Android smartphone junkie, you migh also consider the AppRadio2, I've heard good things about it. There are lots of install threads on here. Here's mine for the Kenwood... https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/353879-kenwood-dnx6140-gps-dvd-install.html

 

[phsycle]

For tires 33s are an easy upgrade on the LX470.

I know some like to throw out this suggestion at a drop of a hat, but IMO, it's probably something that is thrown around too much. For this guy's uses, stock size (275/70/16) or 265/75/16's would be much better than 33's. Cheaper cost, better MPG, and better handling/braking. Just my $.02.

 

[gholsie]

I know some like to throw out this suggestion at a drop of a hat, but IMO, it's probably something that is thrown around too much. For this guy's uses, stock size (275/70/16) or 265/75/16's would be much better than 33's. Cheaper cost, better MPG, and better handling/braking. Just my $.02.

Thanks phsycle, I believe going with 33" tires requires a wheel change, correct? These wheels are 16", I would like to go with bigger wheels if I find the right deal. I've been reading that Tundra wheels seem to do a good job? I like your tire recommendation, thanks. I also like the wheel/33" option but need to make sure that I'm not going to blow my comfort ride.

Welcome!

THANKS!!

1) is addressed in the FAQ -> https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/237827-door-lock-actuator-replacement.html#post3622917. This is a fairly common problem, and not just with LC's. Hot weather will make it worse. If you're at all mechanically inclined, you can save a bundle o' cash by doing this yourself.

Thanks, I figured the motor was still good because it will unlock just fine. Maybe I need to try this motor replacement.

2) I don't know the specifics, but I do know the factory Electrical Wiring Diagram (EWD) book is one of the best fifty bucks you'll spend. Try www.books4cars.com, though 2000 is getting pretty old for what they might stock. Check e-bay. Makes troubleshooting these types of issues WAY easier.

Thanks, I'll look for the manuals. Just checked eBay and Amazon and these bad boys are spendy!! $195 for vol1&2 manuals and $50-$75 for the electrical diagram. Cha-ching!!!

4) I put a Kenwood GPS/DVD system in my LC. I "think" the LX w/o Nav should be compatible with most double DIN head units. I got mine from Crutchfield. NOTHING will bring your truck into the current decade, dollar-for-dollar better than a HU with better sound, BlueTooth hands-free calling, BlueTooth streaming audio, GPS, rear-view camera, Sirius/XM, and a DVD player (if you have kids/grandkids of that age). It is a huge part of your driving experience. Depending on how crazy you get with accessories (camera and DVD overhead add complexity) the install is pretty darn straightforward. If you're an Android smartphone junkie, you migh also consider the AppRadio2, I've heard good things about it. There are lots of install threads on here. Here's mine for the Kenwood... https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/353879-kenwood-dnx6140-gps-dvd-install.html

Sweet, thanks for the info! Your install looks great. Didn't you have to buy a trim ring and mounting kit for it? I've looked around and the best one (and the one the stereo store recommended) is called a "Beat-Sonic SLA".... Did you have to install this?

Ugly color, ask me how I know.

90k service?

Ok, I have to ask.... how do you know it's an ugly color?

Yes, 90k service was performed by PO, actually they spent $3,500 on service at that time... That's how I knew it was the right one for me... these guys took care of it!

 

[phsycle]

Thanks phsycle, I believe going with 33" tires requires a wheel change, correct? These wheels are 16", I would like to go with bigger wheels if I find the right deal. I've been reading that Tundra wheels seem to do a good job? I like your tire recommendation, thanks. I also like the wheel/33" option but need to make sure that I'm not going to blow my comfort ride.

No, 33's won't require a wheel change. You can put them on your stock wheels. But I'd stick with 32's for your uses. Tundra's are another option. The center caps can't be used from the Tundra though (at least the fronts). Stock center caps fit, thankfully.

The comfort of the ride won't change with 33's (actually may improve due to the extra sidewall). But on-road performance will suffer.

 

[re_guderian]

Thanks, I figured the motor was still good because it will unlock just fine. Maybe I need to try this motor replacement.

It's not the only possible cause of your symptoms, but by FAR the most common. For $5 and some super glue, can you really go wrong?

Thanks, I'll look for the manuals. Just checked eBay and Amazon and these bad boys are spendy!! $195 for vol1&2 manuals and $50-$75 for the electrical diagram. Cha-ching!!!..!

So that's what, like 1.5 hours of labor at the shop rate? A wise investment if you plan on doing any work on your rig at all.

Sweet, thanks for the info! Your install looks great. Didn't you have to buy a trim ring and mounting kit for it? I've looked around and the best one (and the one the stereo store recommended) is called a "Beat-Sonic SLA".... Did you have to install this?...

I'll leave you to do some research, the LX "I believe" has a slightly different contour to the center panel? I didn't have to do anything to mine, simply remove and replace with new. I re-used the factory mounting brackets that were screwed to the side of the OEM stereo. Search the forum here, I know there are a few early LX stereo installs that can answer the LX-specific questions better than I can.

Yes, 90k service was performed by PO, actually they spent $3,500 on service at that time... That's how I knew it was the right one for me... these guys took care of it!

Awesome deal! So you have $255 bucks left over for shop manuals and a door lock actualtor motor now!! Plus some coin for new tires. BTW, I run 295/75/16's on stock 16" alloys. Not an issue. You won't have any issues with 33's on the stock set up, especially if you want to run some trails. You'll appreciate every fraction of an inch of clearance you can get. Plus, keep in mind that not every 285/75/16 tire is actually 33" tall. Most are shorter, some by quite a bit... People run into problems with "some" makes of 305's and 315's (35") have some reported rub issues on the inner fenders. I think there's still a thread on the first page about going from 33's to 35's that might help you out with questions. It addresses stock to 33's as well. The step up to 33's on a 100 isn't at all the drama that stepping up to 33's was on an FJ60, which came stock with what, 29" tires? Even 31's were an upgrade. Don't overthink it...

 

[Tyler93]

Just bought my 100. Both of my fogs don't work. I just need to take the time to figure out if this is a common problem, can you replace just the bulbs or is it a sealed housing? I guess I need to get off my lazy butt and go have a looksie.

That seems like a great price for that mileage. Congrats.

 

[Kigiin]

Ok, I have to ask.... how do you know it's an ugly color?

Just kidding, as I have the same ugly color....

 

[tahoejoe]

When I got my '00 LX470 the right turn signal would not function even after replacing the bulb. I got out the multimeter, started debugging and with the help of the Electrical manual traced the problem back to a connector that was not fully seated. Just clicked it in tightly and everything was good. Maybe yours could be a simple fix like mine.

 

[slimbuddha]

It may sound simple, but did you check to see if the fog lights are plugged in? Perhaps the PO had a aftermarket bumper, and just put the original one back in, but didn't plug them into the lights.

 

[ljkup]

I like my 295/75/16s on a day to day basis. Very forgiving on road and excellent off.

 

[gholsie]

Just kidding, as I have the same ugly color....

That is a hideous color!!! Hey, what wheel/tire combo are you running?

When I got my '00 LX470 the right turn signal would not function even after replacing the bulb. I got out the multimeter, started debugging and with the help of the Electrical manual traced the problem back to a connector that was not fully seated. Just clicked it in tightly and everything was good. Maybe yours could be a simple fix like mine.

Yes, someone suggested that it might not be plugged in.

It may sound simple, but did you check to see if the fog lights are plugged in? Perhaps the PO had a aftermarket bumper, and just put the original one back in, but didn't plug them into the lights.

Aha, sounds like I need to get out the creeper and do a little 'creepin' around under the new toy.

It's not the only possible cause of your symptoms, but by FAR the most common. For $5 and some super glue, can you really go wrong?

Agreed!

So that's what, like 1.5 hours of labor at the shop rate? A wise investment if you plan on doing any work on your rig at all.

You're going to love my next reply about this rig....

So you have $255 bucks left over for shop manuals and a door lock actualtor motor now!! Plus some coin for new tires.

Yes, among other things...

BTW, I run 295/75/16's on stock 16" alloys. Not an issue. You won't have any issues with 33's on the stock set up, especially if you want to run some trails. You'll appreciate every fraction of an inch of clearance you can get. Plus, keep in mind that not every 285/75/16 tire is actually 33" tall. (snip)..... Don't overthink it...

I agree, just looking to see what the 'regulars' do and I typically follow the lead. You guys have been here longer than I have!

I like my 295/75/16s on a day to day basis. Very forgiving on road and excellent off.

Awesome, thanks!!

 

[gholsie]

Ok, so here's some new information about the ride. After taking her to a local shop this is what they had to say about the car... Just hit points from my notes.

- Overall great car, good deal for the mileage
- Front tires need replacement (bad wear pattern)
- Alignment needed
- Power steering rack-n-pinion is shot, seals cannot be replaced, whole unit needs to be replaced. Approx $1,050 cost (price includes new arms, knuckles, rack, pump, and 4-wheel alignment). They say car is fine for now, but, they see some leaking in the seals which could lead to a failure of the system.
- Brakes OK, but, rotors are warped. They cannot turn these rotors on the vehicle and suggest replacing them with new/reman. Cost $600 (ish)
- Spark plug suggest replacement. Cost $250
- Air filter and Fuel Filer replacement. Cost $132
- They asked about timing belt, PO had the work done at Lexus of Portland ($3,500 receipt).
- Replaced a bolt missing from the A/C pump. Cost $30
- Hood struts are weak (not holding the hood up). I can do this work myself.
- Fog lights. Weren't able to find the problem quickly, but, will charge hourly rate to discover and find. Told them I will do this work myself.

All in all, things look pretty good except for the steering. Anyone else run into this problem on an LX?

Mike

 

[DanInDenver]

Using the 2004 FSM and mud search I determined it was a missing relay. I think the relay for the fogs was $30. Once I installed the relay the fogs worked fine.
The install of the relay is a PITA. How is it these left the factory missing this part?

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/580897-fog-lamp-relay-location-issues-qs-need-help.html

I am running 285/75/16 DT's on my 2000LX and couldn't be happier.

 

[gholsie]

Almost forgot, where do you guys recommend buying parts for the LX version? Online resource perhaps? Looking to buy some of these parts so I can do some of this work myself.
m

 

[re_guderian]

Ok, so here's some new information about the ride. After taking her to a local shop this is what they had to say about the car... Just hit points from my notes.

- Overall great car, good deal for the mileage
- Front tires need replacement (bad wear pattern)
- Alignment needed
- Power steering rack-n-pinion is shot, seals cannot be replaced, whole unit needs to be replaced. Approx $1,050 cost (price includes new arms, knuckles, rack, pump, and 4-wheel alignment). They say car is fine for now, but, they see some leaking in the seals which could lead to a failure of the system.
- Brakes OK, but, rotors are warped. They cannot turn these rotors on the vehicle and suggest replacing them with new/reman. Cost $600 (ish)
- Spark plug suggest replacement. Cost $250
- Air filter and Fuel Filer replacement. Cost $132
- They asked about timing belt, PO had the work done at Lexus of Portland ($3,500 receipt).
- Replaced a bolt missing from the A/C pump. Cost $30
- Hood struts are weak (not holding the hood up). I can do this work myself.
- Fog lights. Weren't able to find the problem quickly, but, will charge hourly rate to discover and find. Told them I will do this work myself.

All in all, things look pretty good except for the steering. Anyone else run into this problem on an LX?

Mike

Dealer fishing expedition. Do an alignment with your tires. When - and if - your rack goes, board wisdom is to go OEM, not even OEM reman'd. But wait on that. These things do eat brakes - heavy car and V8. Might want to look at some of the aftermarket rotors. I love mine, and they tend to warp less than OEM. But can you feel them pulsing when you brake? If not, wait. Plugs are a 1/2 job. Buy 8 for $70, and use OEM. If youj're not having spark or MPG issues, I wouldn't worry about 'em unless you've got time/money to burn. Air filter do yourself, or turn in your man card. Hood struts are easy too.

Oh, and find a new dealer... But I guess they all do this.

 

[TwiceWithHair]

New steering rack went in today. No more leak =) Went OEM new. $1,593.14 out the door. Better be a one time cost...