New Kick Panels - Diamond Plated

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I don't mean to steal your thunder, but I thought of doing that to my 60, but thought that the glare could get real bad given the right circumstances. How's the glare?
 
Nice job!!!! thumbs up, But when are you starting on mine? haha For real if you want to sell a pair hit me up. They look sweet.
 
There isn't any glare problems at all so far. I guess there could be if the back seat was ever down but I haven't noticed anything abnormal.
 
x2 on the brown hides the dog, mud, food.....
 
i love it...the diamond plating that is......but what would be a downside of making them out of a rubber diamond plate so you didn't have to worry about sound deadening.

lunyou
 
Wow, those look "wicked pissah", as they say in New England.

I think you should have punched out a stack of them, plus one for the tailgate, they would sell fast. I'm betting a lot of panels in the back of these wagons are in realy bad shape now, after ~20 years of hauling stuff around. That flimsy fiberboard stuff the factory used was just not very sturdy.

I'm still not clear what you mean about getting to the washer bottle. Are you saying that you remove the entire panel, speaker and all? So, the aluminum panel is what the speaker is bolted to, not the original frame/strut underneath? Just trying to see how it works.

I would also not be too keen on losing the storage space they provided back there, even if it's not very big. FJ62's have the bottle jack and toolkit stuffed in there.

Ditto on cutting the stuff with a circular saw. I've heard of using plywood blades mounted backwards, but I guess a carbide thin-kerf framing blade also works well.
 
I wanted to make one for the tailgate, but mine is in perfect shape right now. The speaker is bolted directly to the diamond plating for a secure hold. I took all the tools out and stuffed them in that yellow storage container which isn't too bad. And yes, if I ever have to get to the washer reserviour I will have to take the entire panel off, speaker included (I ran the speaker wire behind the panels and inbetween the wheelwell and the wheelwell cover and if you do that mod make sure you leave extra length in wire for when you take the panel off).
 
I was thinking if I did those I would lay down some of that stick-down sound deadening paper on the back or maybe rhino line them on BOTH sides.

I stole an idea from a member here and used 1/4 inch fiberboard, traced the old ones out, cut out the new ones, herculined both sides and the edges real thick, then used 3m tape to attach that foil/bubble wrap stuff onto the back, and secured with stainless sheetmetal screws. Looks real good, and deadened the sound real well too. Now my subs don't rattle the back of the truck nearly as much. It also seems to hold heat in quite a bit better as well.
 
Freakin SWEET! I've wanted to do that for a long time with my rig, but decided to go with marine grade plywood with grey carpet over it instead, for acoustics. it's cool to see what a rig looks like with the diamond plate though. I really dig it.
 
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Did the welding shop really use laser or perhaps plasma?

.

why would you doubt that it was a laser?

at $150 that sounds like it was a laser. a laser will leave a much nicer edge compared to a plas.

a circular saw, with a decent blade, will work wonders on al,,,atleast for straight cuts:doh:
 
Here are some pics of mine that I did last weekend to contribute to the thread. The wood is tempered hardboard and and covered in lowes indoor outdoor carpet. The flash on the camera make the carpet look way different but it really close in real light. The 1/4" wood made my 20 dollar speaker actually have some decent base responce.








Dylan
 
nice work dylan! looks really nice!
 
Looks great. Nice work with the washer reservior.
 
This is totally a one :banana: job.

I used a cut off wheel and a utility knife to smooth out the edges. For the small filler neck hole I used a hole bit (I didn't note the size) and for the quarter turn knobs I used a diamond cut off dremmel wheel. In fact, aluminum is so easy to work with, you can score it with a utility knife along a straight edge several times (the smooth side), using a good amount of pressure, and it will snap with a couple of folds along the score line. You then use the utility knife to shave the edge smooth, which is pretty easy. The softness of the aluminum compared to the steel blade is like cutting frozen butter with a dull knife...

The entire job took about 3 hours. If you have any creativity in your blood, this is a cake job, really. As with all fab jobs, regardless of the materials, measure twice, cut once.

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Not trying to hi-jack. Just sharing what I came up with.

Still have some trimming to do on the floor mat. Just waiting for it to flatten out a little more. Also need 4 more I-bolts to finish it off.

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