"New" HZJ73 - Maintaining and Improving (4 Viewers)

[dosequisrex]

Got her on the lift today for:

Oil Change - AMSOIL signature series 15W-40 Synthetic Diesel Oil - filter (90915-30002), plug (90341-18021) <- thanks OGBeno, and gasket (90430-12031)

The newer 10mm allen bolts work great.

Transmission Oil change - (The severe gear instantly made the shifting smoother. It obviously needed the new forbidden jelly.)
Amsoil 75W-90, fill & drain plug (90341-18021), and gaskets (90430-18008 x2)
Transfer Case oil change -
Amsoil 75W-90, fill & drain plug (90341-18021), and gaskets (90430-18008 x2)
New air filter - (17801-61930)

Greased Axel with Valvoline Lithium Grease - I noticed when I added grease to the Slide Yokes, the center section slid back, is this normal? I believe it was the cover moving. I could see grease coming out of the spiders just fine, but dont have experience on Slide Yokes.

Not every day you get a good look underneath, it had some coating applied at some point and overall it looked really good (at least from my eyes)

To do list:
Grease gun with Valvoline Moly Grease for Steering Knuckles
Front & Rear diff oil change - Amsoil 75W-90, fill & drain plug (90341-18021), and gaskets (12157-10010 x2)
Side Panel restorations
Automatic door locks
Clean and restore doors and window rollers

Someone also moved the speakers to the door, so I'll need to clean that up.

Happy Friday!

 

[Felde]

I noticed when I added grease to the Slide Yokes, the center section slid back, is this normal?

Hi
Be careful with greasing the slide yokes.
They take very little grease only.
When full of grease, they can't slide in and damage the transfer case.
Remove the grease nipple and drive a bumpy read to haven the yokes compress and excess grease being squeezed out.
Best regards Ralf

 

[dosequisrex]

Hi
Be careful with greasing the slide yokes.
They take very little grease only.
When full of grease, they can't slide in and damage the transfer case.
Remove the grease nipple and drive a bumpy read to haven the yokes compress and excess grease being squeezed out.
Best regards Ralf

Woof, ok well I’ll be taking those fittings off today then. Can you help me understand the rod thing better?

 

[Felde]

Can you help me understand the rod thing better?

Sorry, maybe I didn't get you. What do you mean by 'rod thing'?
If it's about the sliding yoke: The distance between transfer case and diff varies depending on the articulation and movement of suspension and axle. So, the prop shaft needs to vary in length, too. That's what the slip yoke is for. If the cavity behind the sliding piece is full of grease, the sliding peace can't slide in, as it is kind of hydrolocked.Then, instead of shortening at the yoke as needed, the prop shaft hits into, the flanges of diff and T-case, which can damage those.
Good Luck Ralf

 

[dosequisrex]

Sorry, maybe I didn't get you. What do you mean by 'rod thing'?
If it's about the sliding yoke: The distance between transfer case and diff varies depending on the articulation and movement of suspension and axle. So, the prop shaft needs to vary in length, too. That's what the slip yoke is for. If the cavity behind the sliding piece is full of grease, the sliding peace can't slide in, as it is kind of hydrolocked.Then, instead of shortening at the yoke as needed, the prop shaft hits into, the flanges of diff and T-case, which can damage those.
Good Luck Ralf

Thanks Ralf this helps me understand the pieces of the car better. I meant like what would you buy to put in the zerk fitting when I remove the nipple? I can guarantee I put to much grease in so I’ll remove some

 

[Felde]

The grease nipple can be undone with a metric wrench or nut. I don't know the size of that nipple from the top of my head. No special tool needed. Just be gentle, as those have a tendency to sheer, because the are hollow.
Cheers Ralf

 

[dosequisrex]

The grease nipple can be undone with a metric wrench or nut. I don't know the size of that nipple from the top of my head. No special tool needed. Just be gentle, as those have a tendency to sheer, because the are hollow.
Cheers Ralf

Oh...I feel like an idiot.
I read "Remove the grease nipple and drive a bumpy read to haven the yokes compress and excess grease being squeezed out." as I needed a "bumpy read" like it was some kind of tool, but it was so much simpler, just go for a drive. My bad, that is WAY easier, I will do this tomorrow.

---

Also - I was able to snap a few pics of the rear seat too, it locks in and seems sturdy, so .

It seems odd they would go through all that work to install a back seat and only 1 of three seatbelts lol.

Got the doors off and cleaned them down followed by some silicone grease for the window rubber and lithium grease for the track pieces.

I tried my best to fix my power door locks. The button on the driver's side doesn't do anything, and I tested power at the relay (85980-60090) and it is getting 25V, and the relay board looks ok, but no idea. If anyone has any expertise here I'm all ears, or if someone knows where to source a new one/a different part that will work.

And finally, my worker taking a break....

Cheers

 

[Felde]

. My bad. I may have typed that with my German keyboard settings on, which makes the autocorrection do funny things, as it is full of English terms it 'learned' on similar occasions.
Those latches look good. With my rig, they simply cut a hole above the cross member 🫩.
For the doors:
Put a piece of foam on that actuator rod to avoid rattle, and glue a plastic cover back in place to make them watertight.
You also may want to put some rust protection (e.g. fluidfilm) in.
Cheers Ralf