Builds New here, no idea where to start.

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Sorry, I don't have pictures of the removal process. The quarters were cut off about an inch below the seam line, and the wheel well tops were taken off with them since they were so rusty. Side panels on the wheel wells were kept in place, so the tops had the spot welds between them and the sides all drilled to pull them off. Sides were also patched where the well supports go. If I had to do it over, I'd have just gotten the complete wells, tops and sides. No, if I had to do it over, I'd have gotten an Aqualu tub. But that's the project fatigue speaking. Setting out on this project, I wanted to keep things kind of original. In the end, I'll be glad I did. Until the first new signs of rust start bubbling up in few years...

Speaking of which, if your quarters and rockers are rusted, then there's a good chance the rear sill is as well. And that's a deep piece that should probably be done first, then do everything else working forward. The problem is, and I'm sure many others have experienced this as well, the more you look, the more rot you'll find. So you cut, patch, weld, grind... then say screw it, I'll just get the whole replacement panel. Before you know it, you've done the whole tub.

I got all my panels from CCOT (Cool Cruisers of Texas). Mainly because when you place an order, they offer a free poster of scantily clad women posing next to FJ40s, probably originally shot in the late '90's. Wife's not thrilled, so I started requesting less provocative posters. Oh, and panel quality and prices seems pretty good, too.

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Ahh, I see. In that case, if it's still going crawling, I'd just go at it with a hammer+dolly, dent puller, and a bucket-o-Bondo. Or just cut out the crumpled metal and weld in patches, since you'll have good margins without rust.


Great! thanks for the info. Love the thread!
 
In spite of your careful measuring of the new quarter panels and repair work, you should test-fit the actual hardtop, and see that it sits properly atop your repaired rear fenders. You don't want to find a problem after you have painted everything.
 
In spite of your careful measuring of the new quarter panels and repair work, you should test-fit the actual hardtop, and see that it sits properly atop your repaired rear fenders. You don't want to find a problem after you have painted everything.

You are exactly right. Planning to do that so we can also drill the holes for the rear door hinges.
 
Passenger side rocker done. This marks the last of the major panels welded in. I feel like it needs an equivalent to the golden spike used when the last bit of railroad track connected the entire USA. Maybe some gold sprinkles in the Bondo to cover the weld seam. Still need little odds and ends, like patching some of the driver floor and a small spot in the rear tub's floor. Oh, and "rust accelerator" braces.

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Passenger side rocker done. This marks the last of the major panels welded in. I feel like it needs an equivalent to the golden spike used when the last bit of railroad track connected the entire USA. Maybe some gold sprinkles in the Bondo to cover the weld seam. Still need little odds and ends, like patching some of the driver floor and a small spot in the rear tub's floor. Oh, and "rust accelerator" braces.

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Looks good, there will definitely be gold in it by the time you are finished.
 
Just as I was feeling good about things, I almost lost an eye to a MIG pressure regulator. My tank gauge, the one that goes up to 4000 PSI, was busted, and I replaced it. Unfortunately, I misread the gradient on the replacement gauge, and installed one that was way too weak. You can understand my mistake when you look carefully at the gradients of the two gauges (old bigger one on the left). Why aren't they standardized?

Anyhow, when I opened the valve after installing it, the gauge immediately blew out and shot the plastic gauge cover into my face, ricocheting off into the corner of my driveway. Hit me about an inch away from my eye. Hard enough to hurt. Man, that was stupid. Feel like I literally dodged a bullet. Even if the gauge went to 1400 PSI like I thought it did, it still would have been too weak. A fresh tank is pressurized to 2000 PSI. I thought they went to 1200 PSI because that's what my old faulty gauge told me last time before it stopped giving readings. Stupid me. Don't be like me!

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Got more crap in my eye. Even with protective glasses. Couldn't wash it out, now progressing to iritis with eyeball pain and blurry vision. This is the third time this truck project has sent me to an optometrist.

Thankfully, the heavy bodywork is done. Otherwise, I'll start wearing swimming goggles if I have to keep grinding on metal.

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To be fair, it's not the truck, but rather the tools I use on it that are trying to kill me.

Orrr, maybe it's just my careless self, who is too cheap to pay someone else to put themselves in harm's way to fix up this truck.
 
You may notice the ratty half-gravel driveway. That's from a few years ago when I had the old, leaking subterranean oil tank (for the house furnace) excavated when I switched to gas heat. Behind the FJ 40, is a big patch of rust staining from all of the grinding I've done, followed by typical Seattle rain.

I keep putting off redoing the driveway because of projects like this. I expect to eff it up more with each passing year and project. Not just this, as well as imminent paint overspray, but also in previous years I have spilled oil and antifreeze when I've done an engine swap in another car, and various other messy misadventures.

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Painted it, and let's just say, it is definitely a 50 footer. Have to go back and do a bunch of sanding on my mistakes, then re-shoot another coat.

I used Interlux Brightside single stage polyurethane paint, uncatalyzed in their generi red. Used the same kind of paint and methods when I shot my race car on my driveway 10 years ago, and it still looks good. Hoping for similar results. Thinned it out with acetone,because temperatures here are cool, and it is a relatively safe solvent that I can shoot outdoors.

For now, I'm just glad it's all one color. And the repair panels that we welded seem pretty straight. Still need to shoot the interior, too.

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That's a helluva improvement, looks great. And you only painted some portions of the driveway, so bonus.

Did debris make it by your safety goggles while grinding? Out of curiosity, what type of eye protection were you using? Those damned flakes are pesky and seem to make it just about anywhere eventually.
 
Thanks. I use protective glasses like these:
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It keeps the high-velocity grit out of the eyeballs, but stuff can still ricochet in through the sides when grinding in tight quarters.

Here's what I was using for my paint set up. I still need to fetch another quart to finish remaining bits, and eventually do the interior.

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The more I looked at my new paint job, the more mistakes I found. So I started sanding them down, thinking I could just do a quick touchup/correction.

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But in the end, I ended up right back where I started before I ever shot the paint. So I went back and re-masked the whole thing. Man, it's a pain. What started out as a $50 paint job, might now turn out to be a $100 paint job.

So here we are again, ready for round two. Being in the PNW, we are entering the rainy season. Since I have to do this all outside, I had to plan ahead for this narrow stretch few of dry weather we are having.

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Okay, second round of paint went much better. I used an inline desiccant for the air hose, which got rid of the water/paint mistakes, but my HVLP gun kept clogging up and then clearing, so I ended up with a few runs when the gun decided to work. Should be easier to fix without remasking the whole thing. I might have better luck with my little HF purple touch-up gun.

I'm going to need another quart of paint to do the interior and other bits (tank and filler covers, spare carrier, running boards, etc). So it looks like this will become a $150 paint job. At least I won't be as much at the mercy of the weather to shoot the interior.

Here's a couple pics of the progress, which doesn't really look much different from the first time around. I think it went from a 50 footer to a 10 footer. So, five times better. I don't want it to be perfect, or else I'd be afraid to drive it. That's my excuse, anyway.

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