new French pig (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter tatat
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French corn?
Not sure what I'd expected, but that pic could've been taken a mile from the house.
the hole was factory. had a rubber plug in it. might've been a glow plug light or something for diesels
For the very popular diesel 55s? (which there were none...) Mine still has the rubber plug in it. Perhaps for a hand throttle?
find me a 1980 or 1967 fj55...those are rumors too, but toyota thought it would happen 
- Thread starter
- #31
To fix rust in the roof, inside the headliner it was crusty I opened the can. hours of drilling wels spots, and the result is not too bad. outside structure is shot, but inside structure is ok on the main part. I will ask a society to male me new gutters, and outside pannel of the structure. still lot of gringing, and remove spot welds.
you'll want to take down that headliner before you start welding the roof back in...they made those from naphtha cloth apparently...
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- #34
For sure, I ll have to remove cargo glasses, windschield to weld.
Today, in a famous tv programm about cars, they told that in the new jaguar (the body is in alu) the assembly of pieces was done by bonding and rivets. 3000 for the complete car. supposed to be as or more strong than welding. As planes, but planes are made of aluminium, not Iron Pigs. I was wondering if I was not going this route. ( for main parts).
Is there any (aero) structure ingeneer here to give an advice?
Today, in a famous tv programm about cars, they told that in the new jaguar (the body is in alu) the assembly of pieces was done by bonding and rivets. 3000 for the complete car. supposed to be as or more strong than welding. As planes, but planes are made of aluminium, not Iron Pigs. I was wondering if I was not going this route. ( for main parts).
Is there any (aero) structure ingeneer here to give an advice?
Not an engineer, but slept at a Holiday Inn once.
Riveted aluminum subframes and panels in modern automotive seem to provide a pinch point where the rivets see little stresses beyond clamping force required to maintain the connection, as they're part of an integrated sub frame.
Since the Pig roof is steel with no attachment points to the sub frame below, I'd assume that normal expansion and contraction might provide issues with elongating the penetration points of a rivet, or any other fastener that didn't have a washer or provisions to allow movement at the connection point.
If you'll notice on yours, the supports allow the entire roof to move, independent of the structure supporting and as much as I'd like to solidify the entire assembly, thinking there's a good reason why they don't actually attach.
Very nice job removing the roof panel. Have been discussing the same operation with body shop and came to the conclusion we'd experiment with cutting the roof off at the pillars on the donor Pig, to make it easier to locate the spot welds on the 72.
Your pics make it look easier than I'd assumed it to be...
Riveted aluminum subframes and panels in modern automotive seem to provide a pinch point where the rivets see little stresses beyond clamping force required to maintain the connection, as they're part of an integrated sub frame.
Since the Pig roof is steel with no attachment points to the sub frame below, I'd assume that normal expansion and contraction might provide issues with elongating the penetration points of a rivet, or any other fastener that didn't have a washer or provisions to allow movement at the connection point.
If you'll notice on yours, the supports allow the entire roof to move, independent of the structure supporting and as much as I'd like to solidify the entire assembly, thinking there's a good reason why they don't actually attach.
Very nice job removing the roof panel. Have been discussing the same operation with body shop and came to the conclusion we'd experiment with cutting the roof off at the pillars on the donor Pig, to make it easier to locate the spot welds on the 72.
Your pics make it look easier than I'd assumed it to be...
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- #36
About rivets, the question was only for the replacement of the outside structure supporting the roof. and eventually attach the roof only to the periphery, as when welded so it could moove the same.
for the roof removal, I had no choice, as no donnor here, and I must say the gutters have been killd during the operation, but had to be replaced for the main part.
for the roof removal, I had no choice, as no donnor here, and I must say the gutters have been killd during the operation, but had to be replaced for the main part.
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- #37
For rust prevention too, I thought that well protected pieces then riveted, then seled could be better than welding who burn paint in structures you often cannot acces anymore...
Anyway it was just a question. All advices are welcome.
Anyway it was just a question. All advices are welcome.
bobM has replacement gutters, but not sure of he ships to France.
A decent sheet metal shop, like any that HVAC companies utilize, can replicate the bends of the gutter with a leg long enough to weld into the roof panel a distance up the edge, but probably still require forming.
A decent sheet metal shop, like any that HVAC companies utilize, can replicate the bends of the gutter with a leg long enough to weld into the roof panel a distance up the edge, but probably still require forming.
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- #39
I dont think it will be a problem to have gutters or others parts fabbed, I need straight parts with precise bending angles, they will need adjustments, I dont care about that.
I ll ask BobM for shipping to France, for floor pannels or fender patches when I ll be there.
I ll ask BobM for shipping to France, for floor pannels or fender patches when I ll be there.
